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Just a mini update.... I've been trying to remake a flange around the passenger side of the floor opening. It has been going slow. I had to make a little 'bump' to go around an existing flange in the floor..... Slice the end clamp in an offset block at the angle you need. Hammer the...

My tools might be clean, but my shop usually looks like a tornado just went though. I have to devote at least a few dedicated hours a week to herding all the tools back into their homes....

I don't know about all that, but thank you very much. It should be a really neat little truck when it's done. It will have a few short comings, but overall should be very good for not going all the way into the 'buggy' category. This built was one of opportunity that allows me to continue to...

When in doubt, cut more out of the floor and drill more holes in everything! I removed 4" of material behind the transfer case to help with the ability to r&r the transfer case in the vehicle. I also removed the rest of the old 'hump' in the floor.... In order to level the floor I decided...

Thank you for the pictures. The factory tunnel seems to waste a TON of space? I've never seen a stock engine and transmission install, but dang.... I think with my narrowed tub, with the seats much closer together, I need to do everything I can to minimize the profile of the tunnel. The area...

But this truck is metric :ylsmoke: I've tried the welding the nut thing and it doesn't seem to work for me. The best thing I have have found are 'Easy-Align Weld Nuts', which are very similar to what the factory uses. That said, I still don't love them...

I wonder what is under here.... Well that sucks. I am glad I found it really, but yuck. It looks like it was just a water trap in the stock design. The metal on top was very rusted but the oem paint was still on the bottom. I couldn't really cut out the entire area easily because this was...

On the tunnel.... I hear where you are coming from....but ugh. When you start looking at all the details envolved in trying to implement that it starts to look like not such a good idea.... This is where I am at basically. Good things about a removable tunnel.... -You can get at stuff...

What does everyone think on the tunnel.... Make it removable or weld it in place? I found this excellent example on Ih8mud.... Mine will have to be a little more complex over the transfer case. My LT230 is pretty high in the chassis and not a petite unit.

How close will the drag link come to the spring at full compression when turning right all the way?

The FJ80 biff 24 spline section is a bit of an odd size, it isn't as small as you would think 24 spline would be....kinda a large coarse spline. They also make full 30 spline birf kits for 80 series stuff now. Looking forward. I think the big limiting factor with the FJ80 axle is the outer...

Thank you for the suggestions. It is not really a 'flat' problem, it is a support problem.....the material needs to be the same thickness as the metal, fairly rigid, and cheap enough to mess up many times. Cardboard/foam core board is too thick typically to use for mocking up something complex...

I think it would be possible to retrofit some of the high pinion oiling parts into the low pinion housing. One would just need to compare everything between the two and pick what parts you need where. Any differences in thicknesses for different parts like the oil retainer or slinger can be...

I think that is too flexible if it will roll up. I need something pretty stiff that will work as a cheap template for large spans of 16 gauge sheet metal. Foam board is too thick. Poster board is too thin. Mat-board is about right but way to expensive from the local art shop.

Just little stuff while I wait for my seats to show up... I don't know what that dumb bump in the floor was for originally? It's gone now! I think this will make it much easier to make the future tunnel. I am going to try and make as much room for the drivers right foot as possible in an...

Going back to the flipping the diff thing mentioned early on.... What about running a flipped low pinion in front ( to make a high pinion which should be driving on the right side of the tooth and help clear the FJ80 steering system ), then run a flipped high pinion in the rear ( to make a low...

7075T6 is used fairly commonly in rock crawling and/or rock racing circles for steering and suspension links. It has the ability to hold up to a lot of abuse, way more than anything expo driven is going to see. It has a lot of 'memory' with an uncanny ability to return to its original shape. I...

How about just having the shape you need profile cut out of a bar of material on a waterjet? It would be a square solid profile, but if you did something like 1.125-1.25" thick 7075T6 aluminum it would still be light enough. If you only need a bit of offset you could just use bar stock for the...

I don't have a bead roller, but that is an idea.

That is an idea. I do think I will be using some panel adhesive to help deal with some of the panel overlap on the rear panels. That should help with some of the rattles with the overlap top edge design of the rear panels. I don't want to weld the inside. I think that will warp things too...