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Check post #139 in this thread: https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/armygreens-m416.126686/page-10 seems like this was suggested: https://www.jegs.com/i/Currie/272/95306/10002/-1 I believe that does indeed match the shoulder knurl diameter for trailer studs. Sort of expensive for...

clean install; looks OEM.

You should be able to find custom 3.5K axles with idler hubs for under $200. $350 price range would be with brakes included. And yes, looking cool is number one rule...

This is the problem I was hinting at before. You need either metric studs with shoulders that fit the trailer hubs or standard thread shank style lug nuts that fit the Toyota wheels. Search the forum; someone must have solved for it as I have seen pictures of trailers here running Tacoma...

I think a new chassis is a good idea, that looks fairly butchered up. You might consider adding another 18" or so to the front of the frame for built in cooler and/or jerry can space. Might as well if you are fabbing new - it doesn't cost much more and the extra space is a real plus.

Ditto on the 3500 lb rated custom axle. You will want to have your desired wheel and tire combo on hand first so you can more easily figure the proper WMS to WMS. If done right, no spacers will be needed. Quick and effective method: width of trailer tub + backspacing of tires/wheels as...

Was this trailer at the Sacramento Cal Expo swap meet last fall? I thought I recognized it when I was there.

A frame with receiver tube instead of coupler.

Over on the teardrop builder forum, there are many users happy with just what you describe: foam insulation on top and 3/4 plywood walls. Give it a try first and see what you think, especially if you are trying manage weight. Based on the quoted weight I am assuming this is a small trailer...

The 13" tires are plenty big for off-roading it, while still appropriate to use as a luggage trailer behind the family sedan. I dig it. If it were mine I would try to add some gas struts to hold up the lid without a prop rod. *edit: oh yeah; besides the on board desalinization, it's going to...

How about a single BAL stabilizer jack mounted vertical on one of your legs? You would have to modify it a little bit to work straight up and down rather than at an angle, but it looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make that happen. I know those can be spun with an adapter in a cordless...

Man, if that isn't the gospel truth...

Easy fix if the price is right: 1. Cut off bubba extension and safely haul your mower, or 2. Go for big tires and an axle/suspension beef up; then it doesn't matter if the junk you're cutting off is in the wrong location. Carry-on trailers can be an okay starting platform if your needs...

I have an AT Chaser A frame coupler on my trailer. Very beefy unit. Their 7 way box mounting plate location is convenient, but it would be a lot more convenient if you could just un-pin and slide the hitch tube insert straight through to make it adjustable on the fly... The ferry example is...

I have started throwing a regular twin mattress in the back of my truck for sleeping in the camper shell. If the weather is warm to moderate, I even use sheets and blankets instead of a sleeping bag. Absolutely the best camping bed set up I have ever used.

Bulldog couplers are very good quality and have replacement parts available if needed. I think they have a five year warranty to boot.

I think that is a fine choice to balance cost, complexity and functionality. You shouldn't have any fitment problems with those and they will tuck under common 9" wide trailer fenders without issue. Running the big tires is often a rig matching/looks cool thing (which I like), but there is...

Trailer wheels are typically zero offset so your tire will be centered over the hub face; all you need to know is sidewall width and divide by 2. I like to leave close to 1.25 inch clearance from the widest point of the trailer to the tire sidewall. With your stated measurements a 215 or 225...

That seems like a lot of squat on 3/4 ton truck with just a camper shell and utility trailer, even a sturdy one. Smuggling gold bars in the tongue box or what? I do like the idea of using a utility box for a trailer, all that built-in lockable storage is awesome.

The simple answer you seek is no. A 48" wide trailer using a standard fifty degree A frame coupler and the tongue "buried" under the chassis at least a foot for structural integrity ends up with a tongue length closer to 32" If the trailer was constructed with a wrap around A frame tongue...