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The seat box is a little different where the tunnel comes to it. If you use a Defender tunnel, get yourself a Defender seat box as well. It'll save lots of time. George at Rovers Down South has some take-offs for cheap. jim

The nice thing about the Toyota box is you can use the Toyota pitman are too. The angle and length are right and the taper is the same as the Rover tie rod end.

You need to use a forward-facing pitman arm. That's why only a Scout or a FJ60 box will work, (as far as I know). Both are about the same dimensions but the Toyota box is just easier to find for me. Here's a picture of the Toyota box in my 88".

FJ60 box. Easy to find, cheap and fits like a glove. The Toyota high-pressure line even threads into the Benz p/s pump.

Actually, a Yota box. Maybe I should drop back down to a screwdriver?

I've broken a couple screwdrivers on the trail, even a Snap-On one. I've since upgraded to an all-steel pry bar. It's increased my un-sprung weight but the peace of mind knowing I won't break another it worth it.

I would think that buying a 25-year old 110 out of the UK would be the same as buying a 50-year old truck out of the UK….There’s just not going to be that much left to work with and you’re going to end up replacing 90% of the truck anyway. Why bother with the trouble of importing one? If I...

Ditch the 18's. There are no 18" tires built for off-roading/expedition use and the Michelins on that truck are expensive and impossible to find in the bush. There was a trip to Goose Bay/Happy Valley that a guy took a DII with the original wheels and tires on....He had four irrepairable...

The front bumper on my 88" is an air storage tank supplied by a 12v compressor mounted on the frame. Doesn't hold too much air but it still comes in very handy. jim

Tell me how you really feel. Yow! :p Actually, I think it's growing on me. I might paint it, but for now I'm going to leave be. It's nothing more then completely functional and durable and that's what I want. One of the reasons I wanted a one-piece, strong dash plate is these 2.6-style...

Got the rest of the wiring and the instrument panel built and installed. The panel is cut from brushed stainless. Not sure I like it yet. Regardless, all the wiring is done including the switches and indicator lights for the lockers. Built a front bumper while I was at it.

I did two trips with B2B and planned a third, and really, can't say too much bad about Simon. Time heals wounds. And though I never met Rose, I became quite fond of her while planning B2B '01 And no, living in the suburbs of Toronto doesn't give one the best experience with dry creek beds and...

Actually, they are Hubbell liquid-tight fittings and shouldn't allow any water in. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5D883 Of course, this box will fill up with water if I'm deep enough for it to come over the edge. (Though I could make a water-tight lid for it, I suppose.) But in...

Everything under the seat is wired but the battery. I'll get that on Monday. Dash and gauges are next.

Work from the past couple days. Painted up the seat box and got it in the truck. Started to run wires under the driver's seat. Everything electrical will be in this box. Battery, fuse panel, glow plug relay, headlight relays, etc., everything. Wires go out to do their job and that's it...

No, actually, that procedure is in the Green Bible.

I know....I sound like a broken record. I just really like this option. The Series stubs seem to run around 1.265" (like they're a clean bore...not.) I usually punch them out to 1.295". At that they still can be a tight fit. On both my trucks I had the shafts on-hand when I bored the stubs...

The driveshafts stay the same with the Toyota conversion. You need to machine the center of the Toyota flange as well as re-drill the bolt pattern to fit the Rover driveshaft. But even if you do pop a diff in the bush, you can transfer that flange to the new one. And like Mike said, going to...

It's a nice feeling when you turn the corner of tearing junky old stuff apart and start bolting new parts to a new frame.

Haven't posted in a few days so I thought I'd put up a pic of the latest progress. Besides the headlight doors and the front bumper, everything is done forward of the bulkhead. Everything is wired, plumbed, tied, bolted, screwed and ready to go. Next project will be painting and installing...