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Welcome to Expo.

Hard to go wrong with a Mean Green. I run one on both of my trucks and I'm a big fan. A big bite but worth it in the end. jim

That sums it up pretty well, Mike. I might add the point that if you're going to make something in your truck unique and/or possibly difficult to obtain when you're out in the bush, make darn sure it's twice as strong then you'll never need. This is my logic with the Toyota conversion. The...

Wanted to get it painted in installed before I posted a picture. Here it it:

For paint stripper I haven't found anything better than NAPA 6802. Buy it in quart cans as it goes bad a few days after it's been opened. A gallon can will go bad before you use it all. Us it in a warm but not sunny place. After you clean the big chunks off you need to wash the part down...

Galvanizing is remarkable cheap. You'll find a place to do it. When you approach them, don't mention Land Rovers right off. Get friendly with them first and get to know them. Most of these places are very gun-shy about Land Rover owners.

Oh, sure they do, but usually they break axles first. Mike is right. On a Series Rover, and especially a 109 that will be used as an overland vehicle, a stronger diff is a necessity. There are many options but leaving an open, stock, Rover-type, 10-spline axle won't cut it. Not for a loaded...

Steel is over $300 a ton right now. Crazy. I know guys that are going to old farm auctions and buying old junk for scrap value alone.

One often overlooked benefit to a selectable locker is if you do happen to break a shaft out in the field, you can lock up the diff and still drive the truck. Something you can't do with an open diff. Of course with the Toyota conversion and strong 30-splines the likelihood of that happening...

The front and rear axles are completely different than the DI/Rangie stuff. The DII has non-floaters in the rear with a one-piece hub and bearing similar to a front-wheel drive car. The front axles have an exposed, rubber booted CV joint.

Never heard a bad think about Bill. I've bought a couple things from him in the past myself.

I don't think anyone is really doing DII stuff yet anyway. The front CV joints are probably your weakest link.

If I were going to build a Series and wanted to upgrade the axles but didn't have a lot of money to spend, here's what I would do. First of all, leave the front axle alone. In an 88 you'll probably never break anything, and if you do, it'll just be the cheap and easy diff or maybe an axle that...

A guy on the G&R board (I forgot who) just had Bill build him a set of diffs. ARBs and pegged. Left a lot of money with the guy too. He sent me pictures of them....I'll see if I can find them. jim

Ya gotta be crazy to start putting Toyota diffs in a Land Rover! Some goof once told me "You should keep your Land Rover all Land Rover!". Whatever....... Do the Toyota route and you'll only have to do it once. Best bang for the buck.

Nope, left-hand drive bulkhead.

Making good progress! Be sure to prep, seam seal, coat, prime, rustproof, etc. that bulkhead. After you've got it all sealed up and painted, you can turn it upside down and pour in a bunch of wax-based rustproofing. I dumped 3 quarts into mine! Keep up the good work.

Basically a Dana 60 axle. Used in some 109s, 110s, etc.

Under the hood is all but done. I piece of hose leading to the intake and the cable to the heat valve and that's it. On to lighting and other wiring and getting the bulkhead put back together.

I used to know it....Now it's just entered into the speed-dial on my phone. Man, shoulda bought stock in that company before this build started.... jim