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Set the motor/tranny/t-case today. Steering box too.

It's a Stage-One frame, TeriAnn. The front x-member is further forward than in a standard Series frame. You'll also notice the absence of the huge welded second x-member that you'll find in a Series frame. These two things together leave lots of room for goofy engine and tranny combos. Guess...

Some more progress in the past couple days. Got what amounts to a rolling chassis. Engine, drive shafts and probably exhaust are next. I was trying to get the motor in by March 1st but I guess I'm going to miss that. Anyway, pictures from tonight:

Rear diff is done...Finally! Gotta get moving on this project. I need to paint the springs and then the frame will come inside to start coming together. Anyway, here are a couple pics.

Slow but sure, the front diff is now done. For a recap: 2.6 109 front axle with 3" brakes, 4:10 ratio Toyota e-locker differential, 30-spline inner shafts, 24-spline outer shafts. Button up the rear in the next couple of days and I can start putting the chassis together!

I like that little Kel-Tec. There were some problems with them in the beginning but that seems worked out now. Mine has been 100% reliable out of the box but did a quick "fluff and buff" just for good measure. It's a cheap little gun that you won't mind knocking around. Get one in hard chrome...

Good subject. You guys who take modern, gas-powered Land Rovers into the bush don't need to prove you courage to me in any other way! Seriously, good obd2 scanners are pretty cheap and decent these days. A few hundred bucks should get you one that will cover most problems. Now, carrying all...

That's Frank Motley's D90. I've done a couple trips with him...Nice guy and a nice truck. Locked up, GBR axles, 300tdi, etc.

Yup, it's catalyzed. But wash the brush out and use it again. Don't be wasteful! jim

I use SEM Rust Shield in gloss black (part # 38061) and SEM hardener (part # 38008). It's harder and glossier than POR-15 and stands up better too. Because it's hardened it is far more resistant to chemicals than POR too. No real need to sandblast unless they're really bad. Wire wheel on a...

Yup. I'll screw nipples into the housings and run clear plastic pipe up to the top of the bulkhead along with the transfer case port. Did the same thing on my 88". The old breathers are in there just to keep the dust out for now. jim

How do you like the G19? I bought a nice used Kahr P9 a few weeks ago and I just can't get a handle on it. I like the way it feels but I'm just not accurate with it. I think I'm going to trade it in on a new G19 this week. They seem like a good gun for the money and one that I won't mind...

More progress

Exactly! The greenest thing you can do is stop buying new cars. Rebuild, recycle, reuse the ones you have.

I've thought a lot about this and I really like the Henry Survival .22. It's cheap and small and will do the job in most cases. However, I just came across this and thought it's a terrific option. It's a Kel-Tec Sub-2000 carbine in both 9mm or .40 The cool thing about it is it has a...

George at Rovers Down South keeps that stuff as well as Automec brake lines. I just got a whole set of TRW/Lucas wheel cylinders for the 109 from him as well as an Automec brake pipe set. I've never used the Automec stuff before but is sure is pretty! jim

Three days from Connecticut to Anchorage! Who says the US Postal Service doesn't work. And 33% cheaper than UPS to boot! No worries, Mike. I can make you a second set to bolt to the bumper! jim

You won't have any trouble with those axles. The diffs perhaps, but not the axles! jim

I've always wondered why the 4.3 isn't used more in Series trucks. Nice and short, pretty light, strong and reliable and an almost unlimited choice of transmissions. It's a small-block Chevy, only smaller. What's better than that?

One done, one to go. Both will get paint when they're all together.