Thank you very much....
Here is a picture of the stock headlights on a Willys MB/GPW. Basically undo the wing nut and you can flip the headlight bracket up and over so the lights can shine on the engine compartment. Mine is pretty much the same except I had to work around my raised fenders....
Keeping the winch line taught on the drum, especially on the lower layers is important, but don't get too worked up over some light fray on the line.
Over time it will get pretty fuzzy looking. This donesn't really hurt the lines performance at all. In general synthetic line is REALLY durable...
Thanks. So far so good. For $250 I am very happy....
I think there might be something to this front autolocker, rear open ( or powr-lok or selectable ) thing. Personally I like how it behaves better than most autolocker/autolocker combos and in some situations better than front and rear...
Not much new, but I figured I would toss a few pics up before I forget. I have been trying to get all the lights functioning again for the coming moab trip....
With my raised fenders I needed to do something different for headlight mounts. I always liked the flip around military headlights on...
I don't think you can have too much line in the vehicle, but you can have too much line on the drum....
I too would like to see what kind of damage your getting?
I did something similar on my old belleview winch....
I 'only' put 95' of 3/8" synthetic line on the drum. This gives me a reach of about 80'. The belleview is similar to the 8274 and has a pretty large drum capacity (150' of 5/16, steel ). I could probably fit another 60' of synthetic line on...
Its been awhile but I seem to remember there being two different versions, one that would fit through the stem and one that wouldn't. If you using them on your H1 wheels you might want to do some digging on that application. I think the beads can get caught between the tire and the beadlock...
I'm surprised you have that many problems with your 3.55/37 combo.
I've been running 3.55's with 39's for years. Would 3.73's or 4.10's be better, sure, but I have tens of thousands of miles on the combo. I only use 5th above about 65mph and start in 1st, but in general it really doesn't seem...
These company and I used the version small enough to go through the valve stem. To do it over, but break the outer bead it would take less time...
http://www.counteractbalancing.com/counteract/
Sure, but what I am saying is that you don't really NEED to change the gears in the 1st place most of the time. I tow on my 3.55's all the time. Would 3.73 or 4.10 be better? Sure, but the 3.55s really aren't THAT bad....
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