So a few more things happened. Still waiting on a bunch of parts, but the truck is coming along.
I found a fender, still need some more massaging to the valance panel on the front. The new to me fender must have been repainted at some point because the color is off.
Sent from my iPhone...
That things done my friend. When stuff like that comes into the shop its a used engine or rebuild time. The diagnosis to pinpoint the issue itself is about half of the combined labor to install a new engine. Just get a used engine and re-seal and do the timing components while it’s out.
Sounds...
Yes sir maintenance is key always. The higher RPM is probably easier on the drivetrain as a whole. When I move up to the 33’s it will definitely level out a bit.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You need to compress the ball joint. It’s tapered so when compressed the friction will keep it from spinning. Special tools are made for this purpose, but it can be figured out with a bit of witchcraft.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One peace? The shaft that I’ve seen in the AWD diff unbolts at the CV just like the one in my truck. I’m still learning this rig, am I missing something.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Need some help before I rip into the front of this thing. My front diff did not come with the inner axle on the right side. Will the original work with the AWD diff?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Open source my friend. I can tell you WORLDPAC is a big company and I grabbed up the last set they had.
Uppers list out at $65, I payed $25.
Lowers at $70, I payed $30.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Through my shop, a company called Worldpac. I don’t think they sell to the public. From what I understand 555 is the best option available.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.