I had similar experiences with Quickdraw. Had a simple problem with they sent the wrong pilot bearing with a bellhousing kit for an FJ40 I was working on. It took so many phone calls and emails to get the correct part. I had to wait for Chad or something like that to call me back so I could...
Just wanted to come back and say I was unable to source what I needed for an auto 4m40 swap so I picked up a Kia 3.5 and mixed and modified some parts to get this Montero back on the road. It was not as direct as I would have hoped but it was a close as I could have expected.
I am working on a 1994 Montero SR with a damaged 3.5 DOHC. One of the options I am looking at is a 4M40 swap. It will be keeping the automatic trans so I am hoping someone can tell me if the 4m40 will bolt up to the current trans. As far as I can tell the only input I will need for the...
I just want to say thanks for taking a fullsize rig on these routes. It gives me confidence that I can fit my van without destroying it (I also have a Ram but it doesn't have a straight panel on it from exploring tight East coast trails)
I'm 6'-4" with size 15s and my 06 Savana is comfortable to me. I'm also used to driving vans and also own an Astro that I'm also not uncomfortable in so maybe its just me.
A 1997 and a 2006 have a different doghouse and footwell shape. 03 up style is a little more room.
I typically use...
I've been using a Coleman bottle top stove for years. Carried stuffed in an army surplus bag with a couple of propane bottles. It has spent months on the road a countless weekend trips. Used inside and out with cast iron or regular camp pots. I have an aluminum folding table with a hole in...
This event has been on my radar. I have never been to Baja and it seems like a good way for me to see it without having to go alone or preplan a route.
If I could fit it in next year though, it would have to be worked into a vacation with my wife so that would mean taking our van versus one...
I think that's not a bad idea. 18s or 20s are really the right wheel size for heavier rigs anymore.
I have considered recentering military surplus HEMTT 20" wheels
I also have a 1990 FG box truck for a shop truck. Its pretty basic to work on especially since you have the service manuals. I'll second what Benttofly said about parts being mostly dealer only and expensive but so far all available. I have found things like wheel bearings by crossing part #s...
The KYBs might be a step up from the Monroes but really none of the parts store shocks have enough rebound control to stop the bounce on the highway especially with an unloaded van. I think its worth going with a lift from Weldtec, Boulder offroad or similer to get some room for a longer shock...
Thanks for posting those pictures. I really like that rear door setup. My FG box truck has a roll up rear door and I have been thinking about building something like what you have.
5 lug bolt circle is 208mm I believe (pretty sure. I drew it yesterday) The wheels are lugcentric with tapered nuts but also a pretty close fit on the hub. Spacer is just some 1/4 plate I cut on plasma table. 1/4 is the thickest I could go and still have full thread engagement on outer nuts...
Maybe look at the Sherpa 17000 lb winch. Australian company. I have no personal experience yet but the price and warranty looks good. As others have said I'd be looking for at least a 15000 for self recovery. And as others have said, using a snatch block is a good idea so make sure to...
I have a 1990 FG and have test mounted 255/85r16 ******** Cepek Extreme Country. They were pretty close in the rear but not touching. Definitely less than and inch. Probably had less than 50 lbs of air in them but my truck is a box truck and it was empty at the time. I am going to remount within...
I tried it because I liked that it had dimensions for some different vans I may be working on. I was frustrated with it. All the little drag and drop furnishings are Amazon links. Wish I had my $20 back. I prefer printing out the blank "van grid plans" from Sportsmobile for quick layouts...
You need to remove all connections from the negative terminals of the house batteries except for the battery side of the shunt and the wire connecting the two batteries together. Everything else can go to the chassis or the chassis side connection on the shunt. It doesn't really matter where.
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