Quick install of the Moog 81085 and Daystar 1” spacers. Ride is a million times better as expected. Height with the functioning air shocks is about 1/2” taller than OEM.
After dialing in my 2011 QX56, I hit a deer and insurance totaled it. We weren’t able to find another 2011 so we just jumped ahead a few years to a 2016 Limited.
4wd, cooled and heated seats, HBMC, basically every option. Bucket seats are a meh but the wife likes them in the back vs the bench...
I’ve got a 2011 QX56 and know it’s the Y62/V62 based on the patrol same as the QX80 and 2017+ Armada with different bumpers and stuff but what commonality do these have with the older QX/Armada, Titan etc? Like would titan front lower control arms work on my QX. Skid plates winch bumpers and...
I’ve done plenty of them. I would absolutely find a good one at the junkyard. Or pay a shop 200 to redo it. Its very easy to mess it up.
Also, usually the liner is sagging from water leaking and dissolving the foam. So look for leaks around the sunroof otherwise a fix will be pointless.
Oh...
I would buy a NP diesel down there.
Also the 6g75 doesn’t eat valve stem seals near like the older ones.
It’s not a good comparison at all between a forester and Montero.
Since you will be out of the US also look at the Toyota Prado.
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Well a fuel heater isn’t a good idea in an enclosed space like a vehicle IMO. You may look into RV type heaters that the fumes are vented to the outside.
Or Webasto makes a Fuel powered water heater for the coolant. I think the diesel Discovery 2’s had them at one point too.
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I’ve seen electric heaters that keep the coolant warm. You could find one and use the factory rear heater core and blower fan. I’d imagine it would be relatively easy to plumb in the back.
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It took mine like 20 mins of driving to get it to clear up. Barely ran after I started it. Kept dying at idle. Threw all kinds of misfire codes at first and the exhaust was rank smelling from being so rich.
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If it sits dead it needs to relearn the idle and stuff.
The traction light will turn off after you hit 10mph or something.
The Tire light blinking means you have a low tire or a fault in one of the sensors.
Check the tire pressure and go drive the car. Should clear up.
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2 pot to 4 pot brake/caliper upgrade?
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=1439591&share_tid=57283&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww2%2Epajeroclub%2Ecom%2Eau%2Fforum%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D57283&share_type=t it’s a lot of work
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NS/NT front brakes bolt on but require 17” wheels IIRC and you have to swap the knuckles. Someone in the US did the swap and has the parts list. I think there is a thread also on the Pajero Australia forums.
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You want the winter package mainly for the locker. Keep looking they pop up. And I would have a hard time paying anything more than 4K for one especially If it didn’t have the timing belt done recently. More around 3k imo. And personally I would pass any one with rust since you want to build it...
Those links are taking about the consumer reports BS lane change test. The second link looks like some computer generated ad for that firm. They are one of the more stable SUV’s you can buy that’s still a capable off roader. To me feels more stable than both the 100series and first gen sequoia...
I own two. Not really top heavy IMO. Not near like any other suv.
Traction control is really good. But you have to let it do it’s thing. Some people don’t and try to bully the car though. I’ve heard that Land Rover used the algorithm to base their terrain response on.
Biggest complaint is...
Only post is a for sale post, and an expensive one at that...
I’ve had a 100% success rate selling stuff overpriced (or fairly priced depending how
you look at it) on Craigslist far easier than a forum of enthusiasts.
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