'05+ locker mod

[dsrtdcab]

I searched a bit for this, but i didnt find any write ups. I have seen others on TN etc, but nothing for a....simpleton. I can handle most everything on my truck, but this one gets me. Any suggestions? Thanks folks.

Nick

 

[Dave Bennett]

Look here and go to the link in his sig, the whole write up with diagrams is on pages 2 and 3

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1143304&postcount=6

 

[dsrtdcab]

Thanks Doc. I will have to read through that a few times did you do this yourself on your rig?

 

[Dave Bennett]

I never felt like I needed the gray wire mod so it never got done.

If it ain't broke... :ylsmoke:

 

[dsrtdcab]

thanks for the advice Doc. i will get more seat time before i make a decision on this one.

 

[KingCrabberCurry]

Here's the "alternative" method to doing the locker mod on 05+ Tacos.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226409

I cannot comment on ^this^ method, as I used the original method found here:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1746050&postcount=29

If you use the radio shack relay, as I did and would recommend, you need to look at this post to get the wiring correct:

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=554471&postcount=18

Now as for the results, I like having the locker mod done. A lot of my wheeling is done on the beaches or muddy fields and it's nice to be able to lock up in 4HI. That being said, if most of your fun comes in 4LO on rocks at <5 mph, don't do it. It's not difficult, I'd give it a 3 out of 10, and costs about $15 for the parts.

 

[dsrtdcab]

Thanks for the links. Most of my time is in 4HI. I dont spend much time on the rocks etc. I will take a look at those links and try it out this weekend.

nick

 

[crawler#976]

As for the usefulness of having the option available, it's well worth it.

Having driven a spooled truck for over 50K, I understand how much easier things can be with a full time rear locker, and having one that's selectable is even better. Being able to use a locker in 2x4, 4x4 hi range, and 4x4 low range offers many choices. Perhaps one of the best examples is using it to avoid wheel spin - it can definitely help in Treading Lightly!

2005+ Tacoma Locker Mod

By Kevin Knight (ComAttack)

This Mod will allow you to activate the Rear Differential Lock on TRD Off-Road Tacomas (2005+) in 2HI & 4HI in addition to 4LO. (Similar to the 2004 “Grey Wire Mod”) It also utilizes the ECU to disable ABS & VSC with the locker engaged (standard feature), just as it normally would. This is a pretty straightforward modification that requires no special skills except a minimal understanding of electrical circuits and wiring schematics. You can perform this mod simply be identifying the correct wires and wiring them as instructed. Your typical “DIYer” should be able to handle this without a problem. Some write-ups show you how to use a second switch. This one will show you how to wire up your OEM Locker switch to keep things factory looking…

*DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibly for any damage, malfunction, or misfortune that occurs as a result of this modification. These instructions are provided simply as a GUIDE to assist you. You assume all responsibility and risk to yourself and your vehicle in performing this mod. If you are not qualified to work on your vehicle, please have it done by a professional.*

Ok, now that that’s out of the way. Let’s get started…

Here is what you will need:

(1) 10A DPDT Relay (double pole, double throw) (20A would be better, but 10A will probably work fine)
emale Spade Crimp connectors (a dozen will be plenty, and leaves room for some error)
(2) Wire Tap connectors, typical hand tools (wire cutters, crimper, screwdriver, etc) Optional supplies, Depending on where/how you want to install the relay:
Extra wire Heat shrink, solder, Electrical tape

First, an Explanation about the DPDT Relay.

A DPDT relay is a switch that has two inputs (poles) and two outputs (throw) for each input. Basically 2 in & 4 out (or 4 in & 2 out, depending on how you look at it). A relay requires electrical current to pass through a magnetic coil to flip the switch. The type of relay we need will have an “off” position when no current is applied and an “on” position when current is applied. DO NOT get a “Latching” DPDT relay. A latching relay is one that requires current to flip the switch, and then requires the current to be REVERSED to switch it back. This type will not work with the OEM Tacoma switch. There are also many types of
configurations for the same type of switch. This simply means that the contacts may be in a different position than the diagrams used here. You can figure out what each contact is by looking at the diagram on the switch or an illustration that came with it.

Here is a sample of some different configurations:

If you choose a switch with a slightly different configuration, for sake of illustration, I’ve labeled the Relay contacts in the diagram above. The “poles” are A & B. The “throws” are A1, A2, B1, & B2 and correspond to the accompanying pole. For reference, in the default “off” position, A & A1 have continuity, and B & B1 have continuity (A2 & B2 have none). The coil contacts are generally turned a different direction for ease of identification. If you check the
resistance with an Ohm meter, it should read a couple hundred ohms. The other contacts will have very little if any resistance.

How you mount the relay is up to you. You can let it hang (not recommended...wires may come loose). Or you can just tape it to the ECU or wiring harness. Whatever works.

Now get out the tools and let’s get started!!!

You will find the 4WD ECU on the passenger side behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and 10mm bolt on the latch. Then remove the black plastic cover held in by latch bolt. Once you have access to it, identify the connections you will modify in the picture below. You will need to cut 5 wires from the harness. One you will leave intact, but you need to tap it for power. I have labeled each of them in the picture for easy recognition. Make sure the ignition is in the OFF position and the locker is DISENGAGED before starting.

• Begin by carefully cutting back (or unwrapping) the electrical tape around the wire. You will need to give yourself several inches to make the work easier. The more the better. You can always re-tape the wires if needed. (Removing the ECU is optional).

• CUT the ‘Lt. Blue’ & ‘Lt Green’ wires and put a spade connector on the ends. These are the leads to the actuator motor. ‘Lt. Blue’ goes to “Pole A” and ‘Lt Green’ goes to “Pole B.”

• CUT the ‘Pink’ & ‘Lt GN/Black’ wires. These go to the limit switch, and will activate/deactivate the motor to engage or disengage the locker. Attach spade connectors. ‘Pink’ goes to A2 & ‘Lt GN/Black’ goes to B1.

• TAP the ‘Violet’ wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! This supplies power to the ECU and also the actuator motor. It is adequately fused, so we will continue to use it for our new circuit. You will need to attach TWO wires to this power lead. I suggest making/soldering a small Y-cable. Insulate it with heat shrink tubing. Using the tap connector, tap the ‘Violet’ wire with one lead from your Y-cable. Or you can use 2 wire taps and tap the ‘Violet’ wire twice. Attach a spade connector to the other two ends and connect them to A1 & B2.

• Cut the ‘Red/Black’ wire. This is for your OEM switch. (The wire is hidden behind the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire in the picture.) Attach a spade connector, and connect it to one end of the coil contacts. It doesn’t matter which.

• To the other coil contact, attach a wire with a spade connector and run the wire to any ground point. You can simply tap into the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire on the ECU if you like.

• Verify ALL connections are in the proper location. Double check everything! Tape the relay to the ECU or wire harness to make sure it won’t bounce around. If you want to relocate the relay somewhere else, you can lengthen each wire you cut by splicing in another wire to each, and mount it elsewhere.

YOUR DONE!!

Put everything back together. Lock up that differential and go have some fun!

 

[dsrtdcab]

that is an excellent writeup. It is printing as i type! does anyone have the diagram that is mentioned to go along with it??

 

[gearbox]

that is an excellent writeup. It is printing as i type! does anyone have the diagram that is mentioned to go along with it??

Here's one, and there's another link to TTORA in that page that contains some more photos.


I did the mod and actually got it to work, surprisingly. I'm not very electrically inclined.
As far as the worthiness of this mod, I'm undecided. I'm not highly technically capable offroad, but I've found that I rarely need to lock the rear and if I do I'd rather be in low gear.

 

[Dave Bennett]

As far as the worthiness of this mod, I'm undecided. I'm not highly technically capable offroad, but I've found that I rarely need to lock the rear and if I do I'd rather be in low gear.

:iagree: x2