05+ Tacoma Skid Plates From Budbuilt!
- Thread starter Dave Bennett
- Start date
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Jacket said:
That's for sure. I would like to see full pics of each section, I dont like to buy sight unseen.
My underside has taken a beating without real skids, I hope to have a set of skids by summer...
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nvprospector
Adventurer
TACODOC said:
He told me he should have full images up like he does for the FJ in about another week maybe less. I hope this is true since we all know how quickly he updates his web site.
heeltoe989
Explorer
Hopefully the bud built skid plates work with some of you guys that have ARB Bumpers. Nice looking skid plate. Seems kinda heavy at 200lbs for a double cab. Granted they are bomb proof. Not a bad price either. My aluminum skids were about 100 bucks more.
I don't like the way they have done the gas tank skid plate by using straps. It should go back to the frame or cross members of the truck to protect the tank from being pushed on or around. When we made the gas tank skid for mine we welded 2 threaded steel plates onto certain cross members of the truck (2 on cross members and 2 bolts holding the skid to the frame.) Then bolted the skid plate in 4 places to the truck. that way if the tank gets hit, weight is transfered into the trucks frame cross members and not right onto the tank.
I've attached a couple of pictures for an example. This is the drivers side back wheel mount. The front mount gets bolted the frame. The other side of the skid is very similar the the back wheel mount except they get bolted into the threaded plates that are welded to the cross members.
A couple other pictures looking back from the front. The other is at the back of the transfer case. We built a box around the back of the t-case the protect the 4x4 actuator.
I don't like the way they have done the gas tank skid plate by using straps. It should go back to the frame or cross members of the truck to protect the tank from being pushed on or around. When we made the gas tank skid for mine we welded 2 threaded steel plates onto certain cross members of the truck (2 on cross members and 2 bolts holding the skid to the frame.) Then bolted the skid plate in 4 places to the truck. that way if the tank gets hit, weight is transfered into the trucks frame cross members and not right onto the tank.
I've attached a couple of pictures for an example. This is the drivers side back wheel mount. The front mount gets bolted the frame. The other side of the skid is very similar the the back wheel mount except they get bolted into the threaded plates that are welded to the cross members.
A couple other pictures looking back from the front. The other is at the back of the transfer case. We built a box around the back of the t-case the protect the 4x4 actuator.
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Dave Bennett
Adventurist
heeltoe, your skids are simply awesome.
If Budbuilt's steel skids are 200 lbs... how much does your aluminum setup weigh???
In my case, weight is becoming an issue so I am looking hard at each pound I add.
If Budbuilt's steel skids are 200 lbs... how much does your aluminum setup weigh???
In my case, weight is becoming an issue so I am looking hard at each pound I add.
heeltoe989
Explorer
TACODOC said:
Guessing. My front full skid is about 60lbs and my back gas tank is about 25lbs. their both very easy to remove and easy to handle when there not on the truck.
the front skid comes off with 8 bolts and a floor jack to pull it out from under the truck then pick it up and place it somewhere. the gas tank is a little harder just unbolt and wiggle it down and its out.
It was the main reason I went with aluminum. Light weight and tough. I got 1/4 - 5051 Aluminum from a metal suppler. Then a a couple of friends Kevin & Ian from HRT Offroad helped me put my idea together. Ian cut & welded it together. The work that Ian does is art. Incredible TIG welding on everything.
Its taken a few really good knocks and hasn't looked back.
nvprospector
Adventurer
Streakerfreak
Jan-Kee
nvprospector said:
Looks good:26_7_2: Post some pics when you get it on.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
nvprospector said:
Take some pictures of the install. I am interested in how it fits, and what your thoughts are on it, as I will be buying skid plates in the future.
Thanks.
nvprospector
Adventurer
No promblem. Hopefully I will be installing it in the morning after I get off from work. Would it stall it now but I can't even walk outside. We have this nasty windstorm happening with wind speeds of 45 mph with gusting up to 61 mph. HMMMM Maybe I will go fly a kit.
nvprospector
Adventurer
The Skid Plate Install Part One
Tools Needed:
3/8 Ratchet
10mm socket
14mm socket
Floor jack
Long piece of 2x4
Short piece of 2x4
Total Time: Around 30 min
The item to install
The skid plate comes with two carriage bolts, washers and nuts.
Now, let the fun begin
Using the 10mm socket remove the 4 nuts holding the scuff plate to the fuel tank.
Here is a side by side of the new skid plate and the scuff plate. The new plate provides protection for the fuel lines that are located in the front of the tank.
The naked gas tank. This is also a good time to clean all of those little places that mud and other items like to hide.
Using a floor jack and a long piece of 2x4, lift the skid plate into position lining up the original studs along the way. Snug down, but don't tighten the front two nuts.
Using a smaller block of wood rise the rear of the skid plate and snug down the rear nuts.
Tools Needed:
3/8 Ratchet
10mm socket
14mm socket
Floor jack
Long piece of 2x4
Short piece of 2x4
Total Time: Around 30 min
The item to install
The skid plate comes with two carriage bolts, washers and nuts.
Now, let the fun begin
Using the 10mm socket remove the 4 nuts holding the scuff plate to the fuel tank.
Here is a side by side of the new skid plate and the scuff plate. The new plate provides protection for the fuel lines that are located in the front of the tank.
The naked gas tank. This is also a good time to clean all of those little places that mud and other items like to hide.
Using a floor jack and a long piece of 2x4, lift the skid plate into position lining up the original studs along the way. Snug down, but don't tighten the front two nuts.
Using a smaller block of wood rise the rear of the skid plate and snug down the rear nuts.
nvprospector
Adventurer
The Skid Plate Install Part Two
The provided washer go on the inside of the chassis cross support that is located in front of the gas tank.
Using a small piece of wood on the floor jack on the inside corner of the skid plate lift the front of the skid plate to the cross member.
Insert the carriage bolt and tighten down the nut using the 14mm socket. Lower the jack and insert the other carriage bolt and tighten down the nut. Now to finish, tighten all six nuts and we are done.
The provided washer go on the inside of the chassis cross support that is located in front of the gas tank.
Using a small piece of wood on the floor jack on the inside corner of the skid plate lift the front of the skid plate to the cross member.
Insert the carriage bolt and tighten down the nut using the 14mm socket. Lower the jack and insert the other carriage bolt and tighten down the nut. Now to finish, tighten all six nuts and we are done.
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Overland Hadley
on a journey
Looks good!
Is there any worry with hanging a big heavy thing like that from the same place that was made for a little plastic cover? I would assume not, but was not sure.
And as Heeltoe989 pointed out, if it takes a hard hit does it just push up on the gas tank?
Can you post a picture of the back edge of the skid once installed?
Thanks for the write-up and pictures.
Is there any worry with hanging a big heavy thing like that from the same place that was made for a little plastic cover? I would assume not, but was not sure.
And as Heeltoe989 pointed out, if it takes a hard hit does it just push up on the gas tank?
Can you post a picture of the back edge of the skid once installed?
Thanks for the write-up and pictures.
nvprospector
Adventurer
Overland Hadley said:
Not really an issue with hanging it on the tanks banding. The banding for the fuel tank is robust enough to support the weight of 32#. With a solid flat surface on the bottom of the tank, the tank does not bulge down and flex as much. The flexing and bulging of the tank will do more damage to the banding over time than the addition of weight. If you remove the scuff plate you will see what I mean by flexing and bulging. With a full tank, the scuff plate studs are flexed out from the center of the tank do to the weight of the fuel. With the skid plate the tank remains flat.
Overland Hadley said:
My 1985 4-runner had mounted, from the factory, its metal skid plate the same way without ever a issue. Even when I did mount a huge hunk of metal in place of the factory plate.
This was a test that I did not plan or want to happen. I had the back of taco in the air and was removing jack stands. I had a smaller 4 ton stand under the truck and when I released the floor jack, because I like watching things bounce, the jack stand was under the fuel tank. I will say this, it supported the entire weight of the taco without a issue when it slammed down. So to answer your question, no it does not push up the tank on a hard hit.
Overland Hadley said:
Sure. Sorry about the angle, it was starting to rain and I melt in the rain.
