06 fuso fe over heating

[Amesz00]

The 4m50 motor does have a bit of a reputation for overheating in aus. Not sure if overhearing is the right term tho, more 'running hot'. However a smushed radiator could well push that to overheating. None of the previous canters have had this problem. I believe it is a combination of several things, I think it was whatcharterboat who brought up a lack of airflow behind the grill. The rad I think is the same as a 4d34t, despite being a full litre bigger.
The turbo and egr setup.. For egr to work there must be a - deltaP.. Meaning there has to be more psi in the exhaust mani than the intake mani for exhaust to flow into the intake. Most do this by running either a vgt or compounds with electric WG. Mitsi simply put on a smaller turbo, meaning there is massive back pressure all the time and the motor now runs out of puff soon after 2k. Obviously more back pressure means more heat, and also the egr has a cooler that is run off the engine radiator. It's a never ending heat sink...

 

[boostin]

The 4m50 motor does have a bit of a reputation for overheating in aus. Not sure if overhearing is the right term tho, more 'running hot'. However a smushed radiator could well push that to overheating. None of the previous canters have had this problem. I believe it is a combination of several things, I think it was whatcharterboat who brought up a lack of airflow behind the grill. The rad I think is the same as a 4d34t, despite being a full litre bigger.
The turbo and egr setup.. For egr to work there must be a - deltaP.. Meaning there has to be more psi in the exhaust mani than the intake mani for exhaust to flow into the intake. Most do this by running either a vgt or compounds with electric WG. Mitsi simply put on a smaller turbo, meaning there is massive back pressure all the time and the motor now runs out of puff soon after 2k. Obviously more back pressure means more heat, and also the egr has a cooler that is run off the engine radiator. It's a never ending heat sink...

Hmm interesting read.

I was actually thinking of blocking off the egr.

Also the small turbo...I did notice it was tiny.. Any upgrades people do?

 

[DzlToy]

Did a bit of testing on this today. Picked up a thermostat from the local dealer, but after I described the symptoms, they did not think that would fix the problem. Due to Fuso's $%#$#_ engineering, the thermostat is not accessible from the top as it should be. It is located on the lower passenger's side behind the $#$@() alternator, which must be removed in order to remove the thermostat for testing or replacement.

The engine warms up as normal and stays just below the half way mark. It was around 92*F (33*C) at the time of the test. Got the truck up to 78 MP/ 125KPH and the needle was in the red quickly. Slowed down to 65 MPH and within 2-3 SECONDS, the needle dropped to below halfway mark on the temp gauge.

Stop at a light, sit in traffic or bury the throttle and up it goes again. Coolant level is correct and seems to be clean. Overflow tank is just below full mark. Fan is turning all the time and does not feel sloppy or wobbly with the engine off. There was a slight squeal a time or two, but I chalked that up to water or coolant getting on the belts when topping off the radiator. I suppose the water pump could be the culprit.

Dealer says to check the EGR cooler for leaks (internally), but it's not exactly easy to remove either. Their last option is to replace the entire radiator at a cost of over $800. They say flush and fill or internal cleaning of the radiator has not improved the situation with similar symptoms in their shop.

Need the truck in about a week and would prefer for it not to be running hot on the trip, which is about 5 hours travel time each way.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Cheers

 

[boostin]

Did a bit of testing on this today. Picked up a thermostat from the local dealer, but after I described the symptoms, they did not think that would fix the problem. Due to Fuso's $%#$#_ engineering, the thermostat is not accessible from the top as it should be. It is located on the lower passenger's side behind the $#$@() alternator, which must be removed in order to remove the thermostat for testing or replacement.

The engine warms up as normal and stays just below the half way mark. It was around 92*F (33*C) at the time of the test. Got the truck up to 78 MP/ 125KPH and the needle was in the red quickly. Slowed down to 65 MPH and within 2-3 SECONDS, the needle dropped to below halfway mark on the temp gauge.

Stop at a light, sit in traffic or bury the throttle and up it goes again. Coolant level is correct and seems to be clean. Overflow tank is just below full mark. Fan is turning all the time and does not feel sloppy or wobbly with the engine off. There was a slight squeal a time or two, but I chalked that up to water or coolant getting on the belts when topping off the radiator. I suppose the water pump could be the culprit.

Dealer says to check the EGR cooler for leaks (internally), but it's not exactly easy to remove either. Their last option is to replace the entire radiator at a cost of over $800. They say flush and fill or internal cleaning of the radiator has not improved the situation with similar symptoms in their shop.

Need the truck in about a week and would prefer for it not to be running hot on the trip, which is about 5 hours travel time each way.

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.

Cheers

Is this on the fe you where discussing?


I think the reason the thermostat is on the bottom cause the coolant system works in reverse like old vw.

How do the rad fins look?

I think if the egr cooler was leaking you would get exhaust in the coolant.

Did you have a load on?

 

[DzlToy]

empty truck, fins look good, as does intercooler

Dealer said if EGR cooler was leaking, there would be coolant inside the cooling unit, which kind of looks like a plate cooler. This does three things: firstly, it keeps your EGR cooler from working properly, so now you have hotter than normal exhaust gas going back into your engine (overheating problem), second, you could be vapoursing coolant, which is now part of your hot intake air. This will also cause a small amount of coolant loss.

Did not know the cooling system was backwards on these, presumed top to bottom flow down through rad.

Unfortunately, this is going to take some time to figure out. Or I could just put an 8 valve Cummins 4BT in there and call it done

No EGR, no undersized turbo, plenty of options for tuning, no ECM, multiple transmission choices, ad infinitum

 

[boostin]

Ha yes or 6bt...if you ever see the 4m50 outside of the truck is massive...I have a spare

Think I will see what i can accomplish with the mitsu..I believe like there cars they're is magic that is a few mods away.

I think it works backwards so the bottom of the rad which sees the most air gets the hottest coolant.

I will block off my egr where the tube go's into the exhaust manifold. I did that on another fe I had, no problems or lights.

I am also thinking of adding a additional cooler.

 

[Aussie Iron]

I could just put an 8 valve Cummins 4BT in there and call it done

"Just do it" we all want to see how it goes then.

Dan.

 

[DzlToy]

I am more than happy to block off the EGR if you have done it with no problems and are willing to share how to do it. I have done a few Cummins trucks that way with friends who owned them. We just cut block off plates on a mate's plasma cutting table and covered up the holes. So I could do the same thing here and just ditch the entire system if that is the way to do it.

Thanks

 

[pugslyyy]

I am more than happy to block off the EGR if you have done it with no problems and are willing to share how to do it. I have done a few Cummins trucks that way with friends who owned them. We just cut block off plates on a mate's plasma cutting table and covered up the holes. So I could do the same thing here and just ditch the entire system if that is the way to do it.

Thanks

yeah I would do this too if it works!

 

[boostin]

I just booked a plate between the exhaust manifold and the egr tube. That way the egr is blocked but if I get pulled over by dot it still looks factory

 

[pugslyyy]

I just booked a plate between the exhaust manifold and the egr tube. That way the egr is blocked but if I get pulled over by dot it still looks factory

Sounds simple enough!

 

[westyss]

Im pretty sure Skifreak did the EGR delete, maybe its on his web page??

It sounds logical to do it for sure, and if it helps with overheating it would seem worth it. My truck does overheat in certain conditions, well not overheat but starts to climb and I do something about it before overheating so I really dont know if it will continue to climb (who has tested this? ) From what I can tell on the hill that I see this high temp occur is comprised of a few conditions: 1) Steep climb, this particular spot hits a 8.5% grade. I beleive that there is another major highway, route 20 in BC that hits close to 18% grades!
2) Hot afternoon, this spot in the afternoon has the sun beating on it at just the right angle to make the road radiate extreme heat, normally there are lines of cars, trucks and semis lining the road on this section all in overheat mode, also evidence of many vehicles spewing fluids all over the place( just a very extreme hill, can be seen on the TV show " Highway Through Hell" .
3) Slight tail wind, again this spot has the prevailing winds from the west and I am driving east so with the heat radiating off the pavement and a slight tail wind with a full camping load on climbing the 8.5% grade = ideal conditions for overheating.

If travelling at other times of the day or not on sunny, hot days it will not overheat on the same road.

Keeping the revs up will keep it cooler, turning off ac and turning on the heater seems to help, I also turn off my Stienbeaur chip when approaching this hill but I am unsure if this has any effect.( no pyro)

If the EGR delete solves this issue then Im all for it

 

[DzlToy]

(who has tested this? )

I did some testing on my 07 FE yesterday. Temps were in the mid 90's *F, the air conditioning was on full blast. Flat highway, no traffic to speak of, top speed of 78 MPH. Temp gauge went all the way through the red zone and hit the line on the other side within a few mins of getting on the freeway.

Slowed down to 60-65 mph and within 2-3 seconds, the temp gauge was below the half way mark. I cannot imagine the engine coolant shedding or dumping that much heat in that amount of time, so I am doing some trouble shooting to determine what may be the culprit. If the thermostat were sticking, the temps would not come back down under half mark. Same for obstruction in or on radiator, etc.

Dealer says EGR plate style cooler, faulty gauge or new radiator are his top three choices for fault.

We don't have physical vehicle inspections where the truck is registered and there are no emissions inspecitions for diesel trucks, so if there is a safe way to do it, I am keen to rip the whole damn thing off and toss it in the scrap bin.

 

[Maninga]

Chat with SkiFreak about EGR delete, from memory he did it a couple of months ago. It's way down the list of things to do for me, but likely will do it also.

 

[SkiFreak]

Im pretty sure Skifreak did the EGR delete, maybe its on his web page??

Disabling any part of the emission systems is illegal, so who would do that?

But... speaking hypothetically, should the flow of exhaust gas to the EGR find that it's been blocked, by lets say a blanking plate in between the crossover pipe and the manifold, you won't be seeing any extra illumination on the dash and your engine will be happier than it was previously.