Welcome to the wonderful world of seriously overpriced Fuso spare parts!!!
To replace this gearbox/transfer case breather I was quoted $115, so $320 for a fan clutch does not surprise me at all, sadly...
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...and this is why I like to make my own stuff when I can!
Hi Dzltoy, I have a 2005 mitusbishi Fuso FE 180. Its overheating and i know the head gasket is at fault. My question is this, i'm going to add a head gasket seal ( blue Devil) to stop the leak. I want to know if i should do a cooling system flush before or after the the head sealer. The thermostat is out, i did that today and i'm ready to seal the system with the BD. the engine has 250 k on it and i bought is used. I'm thinking after the sealant i'll take it to Mitsubishi and have them do the gasket.. The reason being that i'm over 100 miles away from the shop and the tow is big bucks.. I'm eventually taking this truck to Arizona to live there I'm from the northeast and will retire there.. The truck has all my contractor tools from when i was a contractor.. I've done a lot of work to the engine and the body so i'm invested and actually like this truck.. I'll sell it once i settle in.Did a bit of testing on this today. Picked up a thermostat from the local dealer, but after I described the symptoms, they did not think that would fix the problem. Due to Fuso's $%#$#_ engineering, the thermostat is not accessible from the top as it should be. It is located on the lower passenger's side behind the $#$@() alternator, which must be removed in order to remove the thermostat for testing or replacement.
The engine warms up as normal and stays just below the half way mark. It was around 92*F (33*C) at the time of the test. Got the truck up to 78 MP/ 125KPH and the needle was in the red quickly. Slowed down to 65 MPH and within 2-3 SECONDS, the needle dropped to below halfway mark on the temp gauge.
Stop at a light, sit in traffic or bury the throttle and up it goes again. Coolant level is correct and seems to be clean. Overflow tank is just below full mark. Fan is turning all the time and does not feel sloppy or wobbly with the engine off. There was a slight squeal a time or two, but I chalked that up to water or coolant getting on the belts when topping off the radiator. I suppose the water pump could be the culprit.
Dealer says to check the EGR cooler for leaks (internally), but it's not exactly easy to remove either. Their last option is to replace the entire radiator at a cost of over $800. They say flush and fill or internal cleaning of the radiator has not improved the situation with similar symptoms in their shop.
Need the truck in about a week and would prefer for it not to be running hot on the trip, which is about 5 hours travel time each way.
Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Cheers
I have pulled mine off a few times to clean it.PS. When i drain the system to add the sealant do i also drain the overflow tank? and how do i drain it? Also doe the overflow tank fill up on its own or i have to add coolant after everything is done?
Thank you for answering that! I'm going to do the radiator flush first. Although i'm not sure if thats the best strategy. logically it seems i should stop the head gasket leak and then the flush but i'm concerned the radiator flush will disrupt the head gasket sealant. I know there is a correct answer but so far i haven't gotten a definitive answer. After i do this adventure, i will have an answer for someone else down the road with just that question. The weather won't be agreeable until monday. i'm hoping someone out there has some hoped for guidance before then! Thanks again!I have pulled mine off a few times to clean it.
A spring clip on the hose and 3 bolts for the tank (2 at the top and 1 at the bottom). A really straight forward job that only takes a few minutes.
When you refill the cooling system, fill the overflow tank to the max mark.