1964 Nissan Patrol soft top restoration

[4xdog]

In the vintage British sportscar world brake fluid is often used to rejuvenate old rubber. Brake fluids are formulated with solvents to swell and soften rubber a little bit. I've had decent luck with rubber that is in OK shape. Once it's petrified it's gone.

I'd avoid silicones. I have no love for that class of polymers -- they end up coating everything with a low surface energy film that's hard to get off and the make the surfaces they get onto hard to wet with paint, etc.

Don

 

[RMP&O]

Got some good hours logged on the Patrol since my last (photo) update. The #2 cross member has been welded 3x now and ground back 3x. Third time looks like a charm as now you can hardly even tell it is welded on. Going to finish off all the wring harness tabs on the frame rather then leave half of them stock, got 8 more to replace. As soon as the #2 cross member is all sanded back and finished up I am going to paint the inside of the frame. After this it is simply prep it for chassis black and time to assemble!

Already posted tons of pictures of the frame #2 cross member so not going to post any more until it is 100% complete.

Oh ya, and we are building a new winch cage for the PTO winch. Going to be pretty basic and replicate the stock ones for the most part but be updated, stronger and look better.

Cheers

 

[RMP&O]

Alrighty, so the frame is pretty much done. At this point just sanding it back to at least 120g where needed in prep for paint. Going to paint the inside of the frame in the next few days. This will be the last round of pictures of the frame before it gets paint.

There used to be a big huge ugly tow hitch welded to the back bumper. Not easy to remove or clean up but it has come around.

The patches for the body mount outrigger are done, paint will hide any of the last imperfections.

Details on the #2 cross member we made. I am happy with how it has turned out. Lot's of hours put into this thing but I think it looks good.

Cheers

 

[Shanfari]

Man! If you open a garage over here with that passion toward the Patrol you'll make a fortune! Enjoying your process

 

[RMP&O]

Man! If you open a garage over here with that passion toward the Patrol you'll make a fortune! Enjoying your process

Man, don't temp me!! It wouldn't take much convincing for me to drop everything, move overseas and open up a Patrol restoration shop.

I am enjoying the process also but can't wait to start assembling!

Today/tonight = painting inside of frame. Oh and loading up a bunch of stuff on the trailer for more sand blasting, hope to have the sand blaster guy do some stuff for me this weekend.

 

[Shanfari]

Man, don't temp me!! It wouldn't take much convincing for me to drop everything, move overseas and open up a Patrol restoration shop.

I am enjoying the process also but can't wait to start assembling!

Today/tonight = painting inside of frame. Oh and loading up a bunch of stuff on the trailer for more sand blasting, hope to have the sand blaster guy do some stuff for me this weekend.

I have my American friend here with a 1998 Nissan Patrol 2dr too His name is Andy. You'll find Patrols everywhere, especially at night Actually your work is so clean and most people here would make your name a trademark! Also there are many places here in Dhofar, Oman to explore! Just in case you're interested, check my photo collection *_^

http://www.flickr.com/photos/shanfari/collections/72157622596692610/

Good luck with your sharp work!

 

[RMP&O]

Thank you sir!

Yesterday was paint the inside of the frame day. I bought a 3M spray gun used for applying undercoatings, it has a long wand on it. The Rust Bullet is to thick without thinning to work with the wand, even thinned down it didn't seem to want to work. So I just used the short 3" nozzle that came with the spray gun. It worked great! I put it in every hole on the frame and rotated it 360 degrees. After a lot of inspection with a flash light, it appears I have a nice thick coating all over on the inside of the frame. The recommended pressure to use with the gun is 35-45psi, after playing around with pressure I bumper that up to the 60psi range which gave me better results. With the higher pressure it seems to have blasted the paint farther into the frame rails. Any ways, I laid down two coats yesterday inside the frame. We then flipped the frame over, today I will lay down the last coat inside the frame rails. I am very happy with the results, not only is the frame now protected inside the Rust Bullet is also supposed to encapsulate any existing rust. This being a desert truck there isn't much rust inside the frame rails but what is there is now sealed up. On top of all this I think an added benefit is sound deadening. With 6mm or more of Rust Bullet sprayed it should at the least provide a bit of sound deadening to the frame.

BTW, as you can see in all the pictures, the Patrol frame is fully boxed in. Unlike a lot of other trucks there is simply no access to the inside of the frame. Without dipping the frame it is a dirty, messy, nasty job to try and coat it all. However, since this is a restoration to me it was well worth the effort and expense to seal up the inside of the frame. It should now be good to go even in harsh environments for many years to come. I spent a lot of time cleaning the inside of the frame as best as possible including using the RB Metal Blast on it. So I think I got great adhesion inside the frame. It is difficult to try and get a picture of inside the frame rails, I have tried already! But I did take a before picture and will take an after and see if they are good enough pictures to post up.

Cheers

 

[RMP&O]

This should be a big week for the Patrol.

I am heading to Idaho in a few days with a load to be sand blasted. Mostly stuff for the rolling chassis. May finally get paint all worked out this week too, it has been a lot of work to get this dialed in but it may be finalized this week. The engine is ready to go to the machine shop. If I have time to organize it all, it is all in pieces, then it will go with me to Idaho in a few days and to the machine shop. Details on winch cage should be finalized this week too. The frame is done by tomorrow night and will be going to the painter this week also. All parts being plated (chrome, zinc, cadmium) will be sent off in the next few days. Transmission and other parts from Colombia should be here this week so getting close on rebuilding all the gear boxes too.

Like I say...big week for the Patrol!

cheers

 

[RMP&O]

I know, I know, I said no more pictures of the frame! Everybody is probably bored with pictures of the frame but I finished the frame 100% last night so will post a round of pictures of the frame 100% completed. These pictures are both top & bottom of the frame with some detailed pictures too. If you look close you can see where I have left the Rust Bullet in the corners, nooks, crannies and along seams. In a few locations it has also acted as a "filler". The frame is all sanded back with 180g now and ready for paint.

On the backside of the steering box mount there was two of the sleeved holes that had collapsed a bit. Nothing major but it wasn't a nice surface to mount the steering box and bolts to. I suspect they had collapsed from over tightening or just many years of heavy use, the steering box puts a lot of force on the frame. Anyways, grade 8 washers were welded on the back side of the steering box mounts.

Here are the best pictures I could get of the Rust Bullet applied inside the frame, same location on frame for both pictures.

Before, you can see it was a desert truck by how clean it is. Very little rust and factory paint still there.

After three coats of RB.

I was going to head to Idaho today with a load for the sand blaster but finishing the frame yesterday didn't give me enough time to get all the things I need sand blasted rounded up. So today is finishing off getting all the rolling chassis parts in order for sand blasting. Tomorrow is go to Idaho! I am also in the process of dialing in suspension stuff. Meaning, shackles, pins, bushes, spring plates and so forth. I am going to have to order a few things for that. Friday I will take the frame to the painter. The last of the transmission parts showed up the other day so I am starting to organize all the trans/t-case/PTO stuff for rebuilds. Also will be getting the engine to the machine shop soon so I need to organize all those parts.

Cheers

 

[RMP&O]

Bit of an update....

I have gone through all our axle, trans & t-case parts and organized them. I have also dug out a spare front axle I have that is completely torn down and cleaned. I have most bearings and seals on hand to rebuild both axles but I am lacking the carrier bearings.

The place helping me locate the carrier bearing is a local business, they have a supply house in Idaho. They also fell they can take care of seals and shims if I need any.

https://ec.kamandirect.com/us/index.jsp

Any ways, here are some pictures.....

Box of trans & t-case parts ready to go.

Spare front axle, the housing is being sand blasted. I have two other spare front axles to work with too, one will have CV's in it rather then the tracta-joints seen in this picture. My plan is to use the best gear from all three axles and build one very nice axle.

New axle parts getting organized.

These are the top knuckle cap or trunnion bearings. These are listed as an "option" in the parts books. Standard being just a regular bearing. I think this is kind of a funky design and not sure why Nissan did them this way although I am sure they had a reason. The only way I may be able to replace the brass races is to have them turned up on a lathe.

This is the new Warn hubs next to another brand that was available in the 1960's for the Patrol. I don't recall the brand name of the one on the right, I think they are funky, weaker than the Warns and I do not like them.

I got two other spare front axles. The stock one from the 64 and the one under a 77 Ute. So I should have plenty to work with in order to get a good front axle together. The rear axle uses the same ring & pinion so I basically have four R&P to pick from and I only need two good ones. The only parts I am really missing in new form right now for the axles are carrier bearings and some shims. Should have that worked out soon and then I am ready to rebuild both axles from drum to drum. There are a few bearings we don't have for the trans & t-case but I am confident the trans rebuild shop will be able to locate those.

Last bit for this update. I am having all the spring plates and shackle plates fabricated to match stock. I am buffing it all up just a touch by using 3/8" plate for all these pieces. Stock was either 5/16s or 3/8s for the shackle plates and the spring plates look like 1/4". U-bolts are jumping up in size from the stock 1/2" to 5/8's. The stock pins in both the shackles and fixed leaf mount are all 5/8's. That is big and plenty strong but most trucks these days use a 1/2" or 9/16" pin. So I have to track down some new 5/8's pins. Alcan (who made the leaf springs) says this should not be a problem so I am sending them a small box of sample parts I need them to match up.

Cheers

 

[Shanfari]

Nice updates! You are really the Nissan Patrol's Godfather! *_^

Greetings

 

[krazytoy]

I had the opportunity to see the frame in person and it looks way better in person! His attention detail is very good. Just an FYI on ring and pin ions, remember they are matched sets, don't mix them up just pick the best two. Let me know when your ready to assemble them, I'll be over. Great job man.

 

[RMP&O]

Thank you....

and ya, not mixing up r&p but should be able to get two good sets out of four!

BTW Jason...Josh sent me a few pictures, will post them in your thread when he sends me a few more.

*Edit* 12-27-12: Krazytoy is my ring & pinion guy! I have rebuilt many o' axles but never done a r&p. So really looking forward to having him show me how to do it!

Cheers

 

[RonapRhys]

I used to work for Kaman - that was my first job out of college.

 

[RMP&O]

The new shackle and spring plates are done. All built from 3/8s. Here are pictures where you can see the new vs the old...

Now we just need some new pins, u-bolts and bushings and it is a done deal.