1967 NADA 109 cant make up my mind on this 2.6 power plant
- Thread starter aka rover
- Start date
aka rover
Adventurer
I really like your install on your chevy Six "VERY NICE"
But its just not for me.
Thanks Ed
James86004
Expedition Leader
Sorry, I have been too busy between work and exploring to get on here in a while, but I can answer this question. In the last couple of years we have done several 1000 to 2000 mile trips and had zero engine issues. Death Valley, up Hwy 1 in Cali, all around some really remote parts of the Four Corners area, and the engine has been totally reliable. We have had a couple of carburetor issues where the float setting changed, resulting in a richer mixture and lousy fuel economy, but that probably had to do with the oxygenated fuel we were forced to buy. Carb rebuild kits are easy to carry, though.
Personally, I am far more worried about the Rover gearbox and the Fairey overdrive than I am about the engine.
James86004
Expedition Leader
It is real nice. I got to see it in person before he shipped out and it looks even better than the photos show.
My Dormobile friend living is CH thinks everything automotive there is made by magical forest elves and priced accordingly.
repete
Observer
Not trying to hijack Ed, but Greenmeanie, if you have the time to post up any more pictures of this engine install, I'm sure we all would would love to see them!
greenmeanie
Adventurer
Ok, I'll save a lot of messing around with images and link to an album with some build pictures
I don't think you have to log in to see them. Any questions just ask but this is AKAs thread.
I don't think you have to log in to see them. Any questions just ask but this is AKAs thread.
aka rover
Adventurer
No problem with asking questions about that beauty..!!! Im interested as well on that steering conversion as im converting mine to power as well. I just picked up a P38 box to do mine.
Cheers Ed
Alaska Mike
ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
How are you going to do the frame beefing?
greenmeanie
Adventurer
The steering uses Borgesson U-joints and a collapsible intermediate shaft (Very important for safety).
I modified the column in the following way:
- Removed the aluminium box off the bottom off the outer column. I made up a very heavy bracket to emulate the mounting holes of the box so the old outer column remains in the same location using the same mounts to the chassis (Pays to measure how far the top of the column sits out from the dash before disassembly.
- I used a mounted bearing from McMaster Carr on the bracket to mount the base of the inner column. I believe Inchworm also sell this part.
- I then took the Rover inner column and cut the scroll for the Burmann nut off the base and had Ike at Pangolin 4x4 weld a Borgeson spolined stub shaft onto the bottom to extend it a bit. I used to work in aerospace so had the weld joint X-rayed just to make sure of its integrity. Ike also machined a groove into the shaft to take a snap ring. I have a couple of spacers in there and the spring under the steering wheel provides preload on the bearing.
I have now moved to a location where welds on steering components are not allowed. Fortunately I have an old 101 column that I will just cut down and machine flats for a DD connection to the U-joint. Simple and no welded joints. You could try machining the standard scroll down to achieve the double D shape but IIRC there isn't enough meat.
Here are some piccies which should clarify some of my haverin.
I modified the column in the following way:
- Removed the aluminium box off the bottom off the outer column. I made up a very heavy bracket to emulate the mounting holes of the box so the old outer column remains in the same location using the same mounts to the chassis (Pays to measure how far the top of the column sits out from the dash before disassembly.
- I used a mounted bearing from McMaster Carr on the bracket to mount the base of the inner column. I believe Inchworm also sell this part.
- I then took the Rover inner column and cut the scroll for the Burmann nut off the base and had Ike at Pangolin 4x4 weld a Borgeson spolined stub shaft onto the bottom to extend it a bit. I used to work in aerospace so had the weld joint X-rayed just to make sure of its integrity. Ike also machined a groove into the shaft to take a snap ring. I have a couple of spacers in there and the spring under the steering wheel provides preload on the bearing.
I have now moved to a location where welds on steering components are not allowed. Fortunately I have an old 101 column that I will just cut down and machine flats for a DD connection to the U-joint. Simple and no welded joints. You could try machining the standard scroll down to achieve the double D shape but IIRC there isn't enough meat.
Here are some piccies which should clarify some of my haverin.
Attachments
aka rover
Adventurer
Mike are you refering to the steering box beefing or the motor mounts, for the steering box I am building a frame plate on the outside for a strong surface then i will drill and sleeve the frame and so the box will be tied to both sides of the whimpy thin frames
.I have had great success using this method in the years past on other steering conversions I have done. When the time comes to install the box I will take some photos and document as I go.
The motor mounts will be hung on the frame to pick up the top and the inside rail to help spread the load of the motor.
Ed
1967 Land Rover
New member
That is a sweet set up. Would like to talk to you about how you got it in there.
1967 Land Rover
New member
any progress or did the project die?