east_tn_81
Adventurer
If you are any good with a buffer that paint should shine right up.
1968 Chevy K10 SWB Overlander
- Thread starter snekvasil
- Start date
I Leak Oil
Expedition Leader
Awesome old truck, great story to go with it! Only piece of advice I can offer is just remember what it is, don't expect it to be a modern vehicle.
Hope you enjoy it!
Hope you enjoy it!
jimi breeze
jimi breeze
What cool project idea and it is especially dear to you because of the family connection.
zoomad75
K5 Camper guy
Historical truck. 292's were rare as it's been said, even more so in a 4wd. Nice thing about the desert southwest is little to no corrosion on parts. Paint and interiors take a beating due to the many days of sun we get combined with the high altitude but that stuff is easier to address than changing out 50% or more of the sheet metal. 292's are strong engines for sure, but like Larry and others have said swapping in anything else from a v8 to a cummins would ruin the trucks originality and heritage. Get it safe and drive it.
Maverick1701
Adventurer
^ this!
mrpotatohead
Observer
Nwispeedshop
New member
Nice!
I can't wait to get my Grand dads truck 97f1504x4 38K
Look into a hydro boost brake master cylinder you can get them from astro/safari vans on the cheap also gm diesel trucks
You'll also need the power steering pump & lines (since you want power steering any way)
soft brake lines like to swell closed over time /replace them if you have not already
a Dana 44 (comes with disk brakes!) weld the spiders and get manual locking hubs(only lock one side at a time unless your really stuck) or it won't turn and you will brake stuff on pavement
a gm 14 bolt full floater and 3/4 ton springs you can ad a real lockers later (get the diffs out of the same truck and look for 4.10 gears)
The new diffs should be 8 lugs you will need 16-16.5 wheels (16 you can run 235/85/16 or 255/85/16 or 285/75/16)
the 16.5 you can run military h1 take of tires but you will need 4-6" lift as there 36.7" tall I'd keep your 4.56 gears
as for the water fording do the HEI swap on the dizzy
silicone your plug wire boots to the wires so water can't get inside the boot also glue your boots to the plugs and the cap
also glue your cap to your distributer (you can drill a small hole in the side of the cap and seal up a 1/8" vacuum barb ) connect it to your manifold or port vacuum on your carb it will dry it out if it does have a leak as you drive
Pack all your electrical connections & bulb sockets with dielectric grease
your differentials have vents , you will need to remove them and add longer hoses (I'd plumb them into the bottom of the air cleaner ) and make a 3" snorkel kit with a tractor pre leaner on it
If the old guys thing your big I-6 is strange.
They should look up the gmc BIG block V6 1960 through 1978. The engine was available in 305, 351, 401 and 478-cubic-inch
GMC also made a 637-cubic-inch (10.4 L) 60° V8
Finally, there was a 702-cubic-inch (11.5 L) "Twin Six" V12, which was basically two 351s placed end-to-end with a common block and crank. A Diesel version of the 351, 478 and the 637 were called the ToroFlow.
later Ryan
I can't wait to get my Grand dads truck 97f1504x4 38K
Look into a hydro boost brake master cylinder you can get them from astro/safari vans on the cheap also gm diesel trucks
You'll also need the power steering pump & lines (since you want power steering any way)
soft brake lines like to swell closed over time /replace them if you have not already
a Dana 44 (comes with disk brakes!) weld the spiders and get manual locking hubs(only lock one side at a time unless your really stuck) or it won't turn and you will brake stuff on pavement
a gm 14 bolt full floater and 3/4 ton springs you can ad a real lockers later (get the diffs out of the same truck and look for 4.10 gears)
The new diffs should be 8 lugs you will need 16-16.5 wheels (16 you can run 235/85/16 or 255/85/16 or 285/75/16)
the 16.5 you can run military h1 take of tires but you will need 4-6" lift as there 36.7" tall I'd keep your 4.56 gears
as for the water fording do the HEI swap on the dizzy
silicone your plug wire boots to the wires so water can't get inside the boot also glue your boots to the plugs and the cap
also glue your cap to your distributer (you can drill a small hole in the side of the cap and seal up a 1/8" vacuum barb ) connect it to your manifold or port vacuum on your carb it will dry it out if it does have a leak as you drive
Pack all your electrical connections & bulb sockets with dielectric grease
your differentials have vents , you will need to remove them and add longer hoses (I'd plumb them into the bottom of the air cleaner ) and make a 3" snorkel kit with a tractor pre leaner on it
If the old guys thing your big I-6 is strange.
They should look up the gmc BIG block V6 1960 through 1978. The engine was available in 305, 351, 401 and 478-cubic-inch
GMC also made a 637-cubic-inch (10.4 L) 60° V8
Finally, there was a 702-cubic-inch (11.5 L) "Twin Six" V12, which was basically two 351s placed end-to-end with a common block and crank. A Diesel version of the 351, 478 and the 637 were called the ToroFlow.
later Ryan
Last edited:
Renntag
Adventurer
Sweet ride. Great to keep it in the family.
I agree that the Cummins is the best motor. (There are many great choices for a power plant, but the diesel is just sweet).
Good luck, and I agree with Northern Woodsman, leave the paint and just buff and polish. Make it a reliable beast.
Keep the pics coming.
I agree that the Cummins is the best motor. (There are many great choices for a power plant, but the diesel is just sweet).
Good luck, and I agree with Northern Woodsman, leave the paint and just buff and polish. Make it a reliable beast.
Keep the pics coming.
snekvasil
Adventurer
update
I've gotten several requests for an update on the '68...I'm weird in that I didn't really want to make a post until the whole thing was done. Since I don't think this truck will ever be "done," I figured I might as well give an update now.
I borrowed my buddy's buffer and went to town. It's pretty cool to see the before and after...I think the paint turned out great! I no longer have a desire to re-paint it now.
Sorry for the grainy pic, but it was really dark when I took it. I installed a new radio (RetroFit). It has bluetooth which I really like, and it still looks somewhat "period correct."
New HEI installed (thanks to help from my friend, David)
New bedliner and toolbox:
Using it like it was meant to be used! In addition to being a student, I'm also an arborist. My truck is full of firewood more times than not.
A reminder pic of what the engine compartment used to look like:
Now with a pretty good lookin' Howell Engine EFI:
Next on the list: a bed rack and a new rear bumper. Further down the line, a new front axle with disc brakes. Here's a teaser pic of the soon-to-be rack:
I've gotten several requests for an update on the '68...I'm weird in that I didn't really want to make a post until the whole thing was done. Since I don't think this truck will ever be "done," I figured I might as well give an update now.
I borrowed my buddy's buffer and went to town. It's pretty cool to see the before and after...I think the paint turned out great! I no longer have a desire to re-paint it now.
Sorry for the grainy pic, but it was really dark when I took it. I installed a new radio (RetroFit). It has bluetooth which I really like, and it still looks somewhat "period correct."
New HEI installed (thanks to help from my friend, David)
New bedliner and toolbox:
Using it like it was meant to be used! In addition to being a student, I'm also an arborist. My truck is full of firewood more times than not.
A reminder pic of what the engine compartment used to look like:
Now with a pretty good lookin' Howell Engine EFI:
Next on the list: a bed rack and a new rear bumper. Further down the line, a new front axle with disc brakes. Here's a teaser pic of the soon-to-be rack:
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Love it.
When you do the front axle, while it's up on jacks and you've got the suspension tools laying around the driveway - that'd be the time to go ahead and do all new front and rear suspension bushings. Not that expensive, and not that big of a PITA. Somewhat of a PITA but very worth it.
Also a good idea is to do the body mount bushings - another not too expensive PITA - you won't believe the difference with new un-squshed body mount rubber.
Changing out the suspension and body rubber for new will make it feel and ride like a new truck. Doing the same to all the door seals will make it feel and ride *and sound* like a new truck.
And yea, add my vote to the "keep the 6-banger" tally.
I was gonna say something about the heater core, but it looks like you've been there and done that already.
When you do the front axle, while it's up on jacks and you've got the suspension tools laying around the driveway - that'd be the time to go ahead and do all new front and rear suspension bushings. Not that expensive, and not that big of a PITA. Somewhat of a PITA but very worth it.
Also a good idea is to do the body mount bushings - another not too expensive PITA - you won't believe the difference with new un-squshed body mount rubber.
Changing out the suspension and body rubber for new will make it feel and ride like a new truck. Doing the same to all the door seals will make it feel and ride *and sound* like a new truck.
And yea, add my vote to the "keep the 6-banger" tally.
I was gonna say something about the heater core, but it looks like you've been there and done that already.
snekvasil
Adventurer
Sorry, I thought it was RetroFit but it's actually RetroSound. Check out JC Whitney (link below)--that's where I got mine. They should have one for a 77, not positive though. I really like mine, although I wouldn't consider myself a sound system guru. It plays my tunes and does hands-free calling for me. Only downside: the directions aren't very good on installing and setting the options. For example, setting the clock is entirely too complicated. Setting the clock was more difficult than installing the dang thing. Other than that, no complaints. I zip-tied two small speakers up under my dash...they work great!
http://www.jcwhitney.com