1968 Chevy K10 SWB Overlander

snekvasil

Adventurer
New axle implant

Ok, I already showed the old axle so here are some pics of the new one (1978 Dana 44 with 4:46 gears):

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Disc brakes!!!! And proportioning valve...

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I had to get new brake lines that matched the new axle. That was a bit of a pain, but hopefully they'll be good for a while.

The old lock out hubs:

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New Superwinch lock out hubs:

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The HARDEST part was the adjustable drop arm. Had to take a little bit of the 68 and a little bit of a 73 and put them together to get this:

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All in all, it was totally worth the investment. It rides better, looks better (in my opinion), and brakes better. The steering got a little messed up during the process so my next upgrade will be power steering (maybe a whole new column, etc.) and power brakes. But that'll be farther down the road.

The 4:56 gears drive like a dream. I was a little afraid it would just be dragging, but I'm loving it so far. I rarely drive on the highway, so my top speed is usually around 50mph. Honestly, it feels like it's got better pick up than before. I kept the old ring and pinion...I'd like to make something with them someday.

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snekvasil

Adventurer
Looks good. You going to push the rear end back to get the tires more centered in the wheelwells?

Not sure yet...I noticed the same thing. I know for sure I'd like to get spacers because they're so far in. Not sure how to push them back though...
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
It will be cool to see what you do with that rig Snek. Nice new additions and updates. Thank you for keeping us posted with lots of pics... Cheers, Chilli...:Wow1:
 

NWOutdoors

New member
Love your truck. I have a '68 SWB 4x4 as well that I will never part with. The '68 rear springs were unique compared to the 69-72 versions. The 69-72's have an offset centering pin. Using springs that work on the 69-72's is why your rear-end is no longer centered in the wheel well. Nobody mass produces 67-68 version. They have to be custom made. Lot's of info on these trucks here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php
 

NWOutdoors

New member
BTW, don't trash the locking hubs on the original axle. Those have value to the restore crowd as they are no longer available.
 

snekvasil

Adventurer
Love your truck. I have a '68 SWB 4x4 as well that I will never part with. The '68 rear springs were unique compared to the 69-72 versions. The 69-72's have an offset centering pin. Using springs that work on the 69-72's is why your rear-end is no longer centered in the wheel well. Nobody mass produces 67-68 version. They have to be custom made. Lot's of info on these trucks here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php

Good to know about the centering pin for the rear springs! I kind of wonder if my grandpa had 69-72 springs installed before, because the rear wheels have always been offset. Another project for another day...:ylsmoke:

I'm glad you told me about the original lock outs, too. I was going to scrap them. I'd love to see your 68! Post a pic up on this thread if ya want.
 

Bojak

Adventurer
Not sure yet...I noticed the same thing. I know for sure I'd like to get spacers because they're so far in. Not sure how to push them back though...
I think a zero rate spring (not a spring ) from ORD can help you adjust forward or back. It will also give you another 1" which may or may not be wanted. I think Larry used them on his polarburb to adjust his. Stance looks awesome along with the rest of the improvements. How are the rotopaks working beyond looking pretty cool?
 

snekvasil

Adventurer
I think a zero rate spring (not a spring ) from ORD can help you adjust forward or back. It will also give you another 1" which may or may not be wanted. I think Larry used them on his polarburb to adjust his. Stance looks awesome along with the rest of the improvements. How are the rotopaks working beyond looking pretty cool?

Since I took the cage off once the weather hit, I haven't been able to use the Rotopax yet. I'll definitely do a mini writeup once the warm weather is back!
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
BTW, don't trash the locking hubs on the original axle. Those have value to the restore crowd as they are no longer available.

I'll second that they have value, but not just to the restore crowd... When I was in college, we went through Warn Premium's (And a lot of other replacement locking hubs) like we went though beer. I don't have any first hand experience with those Superwinch hubs, but I can tell you that we held onto those old Spicer lockouts, and I NEVER saw one break. You just have to clean them up when you repack the wheel bearings and lightly lube them when you put them together and they work awesome! Plus there were versions with blue dials, orange dials, and yellow dials... Match your truck color! :)

Like the lift too! If you want the rear axle re-centered, just re-drill the hole in the axle side spring pads 1" forward of the current hole and re-clamp. Might have to drill a clearance hole in the top spring plate for the nut, but it's all free. Been there, done that, worked fine. :)
 

snekvasil

Adventurer
Like the lift too! If you want the rear axle re-centered, just re-drill the hole in the axle side spring pads 1" forward of the current hole and re-clamp. Might have to drill a clearance hole in the top spring plate for the nut, but it's all free. Been there, done that, worked fine. :)

Thanks for the tip! I'm definitely going to do that. What all do you know about installing power steering? Do I need to do anything with the steering column?
 

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