1973 Wagoneer - Full Size Camping Goodness

stioc

Expedition Leader
Sounds like it was a fun trip!

Great looking dog ACD, we have a 2yo red heeler. They're super smart which makes them a bit stubborn sometimes ("oh I see you're not holding a treat I don't have to listen to you") but great sturdy dogs that love to run/jump and our's even climbs rocks like a mountain goat.
 

Dr. Marneaus

Station Wagoneer
Well....it's been a while.

Okay. Update time.

Not too long ago, about a month, we decided to go on a quick camping trip.

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Trip was very frustrating. I discovered that when on the highway, on any sort of grade, if i was on he gas my truck would start vibrating pretty bad, and my driveshaft would shift about 1" over into the muffler and cause more noise and more vibrations. There was about 1" between the muffler and DS as mentioned, so something was up, this thing was shifting like crazy under load.

On the way home it was bad, I was literally doing 50 not giving it any gas because of how bad it was getting on hills. Without a hill i could cruise at 65 no problem.

Got back home and first thing I did was order a new poly transmission mount because i figured mine may have been allowing movement. it looked sort of "squished"

Well, think I needed a new one?




Installing the poly bushing actually lifted the t-case about an inch.


Okay, got that out of the way. No more rubbing on the muffler, but the vibes were more noticeable because of the poly bushing, and they come into play sooner now, or at least I can feel them sooner. Time to fix this crap.

chopped out that emissions related thing in front of my muffler since there wasnt one from the factory....and moved my muffler about 12" forward. This thing is LOUD now without that restrictive item in there.


Took it to a drive line shop hoping it would be able to be minimized with some angle adjustments or something. They described my drive line angles as "atrocious" and stated the first thing they would do is try a CV shaft. This was after taking them on a test drive.

I do not have confidence that that was the answer due to a CV shaft not really being ideal for a compound angle. I was going to spend $450 and not be happy. Some agreed with me some agreed with the shop.

I went back to the drawing board and started to consider my options.

1: Convert my old 5 lug axle to 6 lug, to get the diff back closer to the center, and then re-gear it to 3.54 to match my front. Well, this would cost around $1000 (500 for shafts, $400-500 re-gear, and then some custom work to make the 6 lug brakes and whatnot mount to the flange on the housing).

2. Find a late model wagoneer rear end that is centered, regear it to 3.54 (only options were 2.97 and 3.31 those years), then clean, line, and reinstall my rear gas tank so i could remove my stock tank that is in the way of the centered diff. I figure $100-$150 in the gas tank, $200 for an axle, $400-$500 regear. Still pretty spendy.

3. Find the "unicorn" which would be a direct replacement axle. 1974-1979 wagoneer or narrow track cherokee, with a stick shift and dana20 (had to be non quadra-trac) , which means basically means it was a stripped down model. These are out there, but they are very rare, I have had my eyes peeled for one for a long time and not found one. All i would have to do is find one, and bolt it up.

So, i was looking deeply into option number 2, when I found my unicorn. Contacted JW Jeeps out by Sacramento, and they could get me exactly what I needed. 1976 Narrow Track Dana 20 equipped cherokee with a 258 under the hood, which meant standard was 3.54's Only issue is they wanted about 2.5x what I paid for a PAIR of axles, for just the 1 axle. I figured add to that the fact that I need to drive 8 hours one way to get it in a rental car this was gonna be an expensive endeavor. Well, turns out that they didnt have it THERE. It is in Montana. They gave me a break on the price but it was gonna be $125 in freight to get it to their yard in Sac Town. That put it right back at the original price they quoted me. I asked about Vegas, and for another $25 freight, it can be shipped to a loading dock here for will call. I contacted Montana Overland to check in with them on getting an axle, they said they had nothing for me and suggested JW Jeeps. Upon getting that news, I called JW back and said to send it my way.

So, I just paid over $600 to get a 40 year old axle shipped to me, sight unseen. :rofl::rofl::rofl: I'm an idiot.....the things we do. Thats about 3x what it SHOULD cost at a junk yard, but whatever it includes freight and I wont have to monkey around with anything.

So hopefully it'll be here in the next week or so, and we can get back to life as we know it.

I will do new wheel bearings, swap over all my fresh brake components to this one, and bolt it up under the truck. Maybe even throw in my locker while I'm at it. Don't have to move the tank, dont have to regear, nothing like that. So i guess rarity and convenience come at a cost. This will put it back to how it came from the factory, except it's 6 lug. Hopefully that'll get rid of enough offset (it's still offset about 3") to cure my vibes.

So, there should be some updated in the near future and maybe this thing will be back to normal.
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
Oh, this brings back the memories alright. That's the same trans mount that my '82 CJ8 uses under the NP435. My iron is not nearly as old as your iron, but they share a lot of the same woes. If you are married to a historical relic, you must be ready to replace all the rubber, fiber, and soft parts over time. Almost every one of those is aftermarket. They just keep appearing. Same goes with wiring. With so many electrical add-ons like MPI fuel injection, all those aftermarket gages, ARB compressor, winch, on-board welder, (the battery connections look like Medusas Head) my wiring is simply shot and I keep trying to keep it alive by incrementally replacing circuits. My great jeep mechanic (the plate on his old willys reads: "ROKCRLR". Mine reads: "ROKHUGR") says there is no way but to completely replace the main wiring harness with a painless harness.
I like the way you persevere, however, and I hope you keep your missionary zeal with "Project Wagoneer". My hope is that you eventually reach a point of equalibrium, where the woes of replacement are much farther apart.



regards, as always, jefe
 

Dr. Marneaus

Station Wagoneer
Oh, this brings back the memories alright. That's the same trans mount that my '82 CJ8 uses under the NP435. My iron is not nearly as old as your iron, but they share a lot of the same woes. If you are married to a historical relic, you must be ready to replace all the rubber, fiber, and soft parts over time. Almost every one of those is aftermarket. They just keep appearing. Same goes with wiring. With so many electrical add-ons like MPI fuel injection, all those aftermarket gages, ARB compressor, winch, on-board welder, (the battery connections look like Medusas Head) my wiring is simply shot and I keep trying to keep it alive by incrementally replacing circuits. My great jeep mechanic (the plate on his old willys reads: "ROKCRLR". Mine reads: "ROKHUGR") says there is no way but to completely replace the main wiring harness with a painless harness.
I like the way you persevere, however, and I hope you keep your missionary zeal with "Project Wagoneer". My hope is that you eventually reach a point of equalibrium, where the woes of replacement are much farther apart.



regards, as always, jefe

I like your rig, definitely looks capable!

I hear where you are coming from. Funny thing is this was being daily driven before I bought it and tore into it. It has increased much in reliability and if I had to I would have no qualms about daily driving it for an extended period of time such as several months (I would of course be searching for a reasonable vehicle to use as a DD). Not sure if it's been mentioned on here but this is my only personal vehicle. I do have a company vehicle that I have 24/7, but still, I don't drive it much for personal stuff because it's plastered with logo's and phone numbers.

Anyway, it's surely been a process, but hey, it's only time and it's only money right? Hopefully this will be the end of what has been the worst decision I made on this vehicle (the axle/brake swap). I am still slowly losing (as in every few months i need to top off the front reservoir) brake fluid somewhere, but it stops fine. Eventually I'll likely pay somebody to redo all the brake lines I made. I guess the outcome of that was that I learned I'm not good at brake lines! haha.
 

clandr1

Adventurer
Took it to a drive line shop hoping it would be able to be minimized with some angle adjustments or something. They described my drive line angles as "atrocious" and stated the first thing they would do is try a CV shaft. This was after taking them on a test drive.

I LOL'd myself!
 

Toiyabe

Adventurer
Great thread.

I had an identical FSJ as a teenager in Reno, but with a dual fuel conversion.

Lot of good times in that truck.

Thanks!
 

Dr. Marneaus

Station Wagoneer
Well here goes nothing.....

Looks like a unicorn....and measured out to be a unicorn. Same dimensions as my other axle from 1973. Diff tag says 3.54, and the thing has 6 lugs. Looks like just the ticket.

fairly obvious that it needs a pinion seal.



Pulled the shafts and stopped by Vegas4x4 today to have new bearings installed while I waited.



Tonight I'm hoping to get the shafts back into the housing, then will go about cleaning everything up and stripping off the brake components. The thing'll get a coat of chassis paint, and then it should be ready for the swap. I will take all of the brake parts off of my current axle, adapt the lines as necessary, and mount it all up to the backing plates on the new axle. Swap over the diff cover, and be done with it.

hope hope hoping to be done with it this weekend.
 

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