When you change back to the lower pressure and 400ci, after you drive it for about 100 miles, don't hesitate to increase the power valve, if you find the power is down.
The reason I suggested increasing the displacement, and lowering the fuel pressure was to give the unit a better chance at maintaining a consistent "wetness" in the intake manifold runners. This helps with hesitation issues. it also makes for smoother transitions.
I don't know this for fact, but... I'm pretty sure this system is modeled off a late model small block Chevy with aluminum intake. That is a whole different world, than pretty much every other engine, save an EFI 302 Ford (and even that is not apples to apples due to the way the distributor changes the front intake runner).
Three things to consider with the strategy I'm suggesting:
1). You may find a more optimal point than 400ci. I used that as a "safe move" to see where we needed to go (i.e. big targeting move). Since this system is not a maf strategy, globally we need to find out what point best matches your engine, keeping the tuning features as close to standard as possible. The bigger the increase in cubic inch you choose, the more Power Valve you'll need to add. If you get above 50% power valve we should look at decreasing cubic inch.
2). I'm committed to the lower fuel pressure. I'm basing this on the horse power level and torque curve of your engine. Just because I'm committed to this strategy, doesn't make it the best, or only way to go.
The only thing I would suggest, is that if you decide to raise fuel pressure, please talk to the MSD techs. I think they will tell you the same. But they may have a better strategy.
In the end, what i really want is for your Waggy to start, stop and run awesome. What ever you do won't hurt my feelings, so long as it moves you towards that point.
3). Ultimately I'm hoping you chose to use the timing control. Not absolutely necessary to add more complexity at this point, but timing control (with a good strategy) does great things to help make an engine smooth. Smooth at idle, and smooth through transitions. I'd like to see you get back to 14.0 idle stoich or higher without a rough idle. 13.7 is raising your HC and CO. Idling in an area without good air movement is not healthy.
Anyway I hope this helps.
On the starter issue, it would be worthwhile to pull the inspection plate, and look closely at the ring gear. I always recommend to break the cycle by reviewing the entire system, and repair-replace every worn component all at once. Then if the system is properly maintained, and quality parts/repairs were used/done, that should be the end of the issue for a hundred thousand miles or so.
If you can get a quality made reduction gear starter, so much the better. It's a way better design for a lot of reasons.
Think of it like your favorite Grandma in the whole world relied on that vehicle to get her around in the worst winters imaginable.
Maybe you'll get lucky and be her favorite Grandson at Christmas time. We can all use a Grandma knitted Christmas sweater. Or a great running, easy starting Totally **************' Waggy Ride.
