1973 Wagoneer - Full Size Camping Goodness

[SamM]

Awesome build! I'd go with a crate Chevrolet 350 V-8, an overdrive transmission and a dual fuel propane conversion. That was my plan for a Jeep Kaiser M725 that I almost bought last year. Another thought would be a Cummins 4BT. You've done so much, now is not the time to get discouraged. The same thing happened to me with my 1977 Toyota FJ-40 Land Cruiser. Lost my rear end on it, when I sold it for a fraction of the $16,000 that I had in it. The old iron is very cool. Make it your own and update it with modern power and accessories.

 

[pscanlon]

After an awesome nights sleep, we woke up to some light on and off rain and made breakfast. We packed up camp and went for another short hike up to an overlook of the gorge.




Well, it was then time to turn around and head home...sadly we need to be back to work on Monday.




annnnnd, we made it




So, all in all it was a very uneventful trip, which is GOOD. Jeep ran well. My gas gauge works now but it reads 1/4 tank low (full = 3/4 on the gauge and the gauge reads empty with like 5 gallons still in the tank). Need to bend the sending unit I guess.

My exhaust rattles against my frame sometimes and is annoying. I need to remove my cat (PO added it for emissions, then had a pipe installed in it...now its non-smog so it's going back to how it came from the factory!) and move the muffler forward about 12" then I can hang the tailpipe where it belongs.

Updates on my crazy crooked driveline angle....No driveline vibes unless I really get into the throttle while doing like 70-75ish. Must be the driveline torques under heavy load. I can cruise at 70 or 75 just fine.

So, gas tank leak but my gas gauge started working. Ill call it a draw haha.

In hindsight, it may not have been the brightest idea to use a 325 mile round trip as my shakedown run, but who cares, go big or go home! All is well, and I have my jeep back now. Next test will be offroad.

Thanks for reading folks!

Doc, if you want to get rid of that pedal mush, put braded stainless steel brake lines on all three locations. they don't expand under load.pedal will be much more responsive.glad you had a good run.been driving my waggy for 12yrs every day. its been down less than my wife's 06comander which we bought new.keep the faith man,your getting it worked out.

 

[haminawag]

Doctor Marneus' Wag. mods

You've done quite a lot to that old Wagoneer, all of it good from everything I've seen, and starting with a nice, straight, rust free body sure didn't hurt any. I'm sure there's still several things you'd like to address, but you're going to have that thing restored if you keep going at the pace you're going. Then what? Keep it or sell it? I'll bet someone would give you a pretty penny for it, considering all the great advertising it's had on these websites. :ylsmoke:

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

You've done quite a lot to that old Wagoneer, all of it good from everything I've seen, and starting with a nice, straight, rust free body sure didn't hurt any. I'm sure there's still several things you'd like to address, but you're going to have that thing restored if you keep going at the pace you're going. Then what? Keep it or sell it? I'll bet someone would give you a pretty penny for it, considering all the great advertising it's had on these websites. :ylsmoke:

Ha.

So at this point, I have had my hands in every part of the truck. Motor was replaced with updated ignition, fuel system completely revamped (including carb), done a bunch of rewiring (there's always more to do), suspension checked and updated, transmission rebuilt, t-case checked and resealed, drive lines, refreshed axles, all new brakes, new cooling system, new steering, updated to modern headlights....

The next step or the next "big" project is going to be the motor. I have the motor that it came with sitting on a stand, and I plan to rebuild that. Mild build, intake, RV cam, etc. MAAAYYYBBEEEEE Fuel injection. However, i'd like to drive it and use it for a while.

I will probably do new carpet, headliner, and reupholster the front seat to be original like the back before the motor.

Also, I just plain dont like the drive line angle I have now, so I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for a correct rear end out of a D20 equipped wag or NT Cherokee from the correct year range. But that'll likely be a "some day" type of project.

 

[haminawag]

drive line angle

What's wrong with the drive line angle? I thought you only had a 4" lift, same as me, mine seems to be just about right, but you have a few mods in your setup, mine is bone stock other than the lift.

Right now I'm doing the last of the floorpan replacement, then will do carpeting, I hate that cut-pile carpet they used in '79, so I bought a great 7.5' x 12' remnant roll for $40.00 from a local flooring co., not a perfect color match but I actually like it better, anyway it's enough to do the whole thing-plus. Then will come electrical, I prefer to lay down on nice new carpeting while working under the dash. I already did all the engine stuff, recammed, replummed, rewired, recarbed, it was hilarious the way I bought it, a genuine POS. HAH

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

What's wrong with the drive line angle? I thought you only had a 4" lift, same as me, mine seems to be just about right, but you have a few mods in your setup, mine is bone stock other than the lift.

I have a centered output on my t-case, and i have the furthest offset diff that was available (q-trac NT wagoneer). Combine that with a 4" life, and you get a fantastic compound angle.

This is whats wrong with my driveline angle:

 

[rxinhed]

Might you consider a double, double cardan...or 2 CVs (not the Citroen)?

 

[reece146]

Shimming the axle should get it under control. The u-joints don't care whether the plane of the angles is in the vertical or horizontal... you need to get them running at the same angle relative to each other and the input on the axle and the transfer case output to be parallel to each other.

A CV shaft won't work because the end with the single U-joint has to be running in a straight line so the harmonics balance which is impossible at the axle end.

 

[rxinhed]

A double CV axle, one on each end...hence the Citroen joke....2CV.

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

Might you consider a double, double cardan...or 2 CVs (not the Citroen)?

Shimming the axle should get it under control. The u-joints don't care whether the plane of the angles is in the vertical or horizontal... you need to get them running at the same angle relative to each other and the input on the axle and the transfer case output to be parallel to each other.

A CV shaft won't work because the end with the single U-joint has to be running in a straight line so the harmonics balance which is impossible at the axle end.

As he said, a CV joint wont work for a compound angle.

My axle is shimmed. Pinion sits level as does the output on the TC. The issue is the somewhat severe compound angle. I'm honestly not 'super' worried about it, but these operating angles will reduce U joint life. I suppose given the amount that i drive this thing (4000 miles a year is the most I have done), I will simply have to check my u-joints once a year, rather than never. And I carry spare u-joints as well.

I suppose I can think of way worse repairs to have to do on the road or on the trail, than a 20 minute u-joint swap.

I get vibes under heavy load. As mentioned, if i'm doin' 70+ and i step on the gas, the truck starts to viberate. I'm a bit concerned with how it'll run if I'm trying to do 60-65 with my camper.

I'm just not happy with it because it was a mistake on my part. And the answer is to find a rare-*** axle, or go with a WT axle which i could PROBABLY fit if i ran 31's.

 

[rxinhed]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint

Even has active GIFs that demonstrate why I suggest the CV. The U-joint has issues with the number of moving parts and the inherent back-forth motion of the u-joint body causing the adverse harmonics. The Rzeppa-style joint has fewer moving parts and more evenly distributed mass, thus less harmonic distortion and more smoothly transferred motion without all the timing issues of the u-joint.

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint

Even has active GIFs that demonstrate why I suggest the CV. The U-joint has issues with the number of moving parts and the inherent back-forth motion of the u-joint body causing the adverse harmonics. The Rzeppa-style joint has fewer moving parts and more evenly distributed mass, thus less harmonic distortion and more smoothly transferred motion without all the timing issues of the u-joint.

Also from the same article...

referring to double cardan joints: They are also used to replace Rzeppa style constant-velocity joints in applications where high articulation angles, or impulsive torque loads are common, such as the driveshafts and halfshafts of rugged four wheel drive vehicles. Double Cardan joints require a centering element that will maintain equal angles between the driven and driving shafts for true constant velocity rotation.[10][11] This centering device requires additional torque to accelerate the internals of the joint and does generate some additional vibration at higher speeds

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

I appreciate the advice on various options, but in all honesty, I'm not interested in having some custom driveshaft built for a $125 axle.

 

[reece146]

Maybe it's just the photo but the angles really don't look that bad to me.

If it is only under power that you get the vibration maybe your springs are soft/worn and wrapping enough to cause the angles to go out of phase.

Do you or your buddies have some 1º or 2º shims kicking around? Throw them in for giggles to see if it makes a difference?

Thinking out loud... didn't ZJs have CV rear driveshafts? The kind with ball bearing joints like in a front wheel drive car? Maybe one of those is the right length and could be found cheap at the wrecker?

 

[Dr. Marneaus]

Maybe it's just the photo but the angles really don't look that bad to me.

If it is only under power that you get the vibration maybe your springs are soft/worn and wrapping enough to cause the angles to go out of phase.

Do you or your buddies have some 1º or 2º shims kicking around? Throw them in for giggles to see if it makes a difference?

Thinking out loud... didn't ZJs have CV rear driveshafts? The kind with ball bearing joints like in a front wheel drive car? Maybe one of those is the right length and could be found cheap at the wrecker?

Worth checking into both I suppose. I'll ride it a bit though and see how things pan out, then move forward from there.

It's something like an 8* angle I think based on whatever length the driveshaft is and a 5.5" offset.