1974 Coleman Valley Forge - Complete gut job

[slepe67]

I'm still here. Overseas at the moment.

I've begun planning my electrical needs while I've got plenty of time on my hands...

Here's a thread I started on the Power Systems Section:

POPUP POWER FOR A DUMMY

Hey there. I'm at the point of my pop-up trailer restoration where I need to address electricity. I know NOTHING about electricity. Here's the link to my build... https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/1974-coleman-valley-forge-complete-gut-job.204401/ CLIFF'S NOTES VERSION: The...

www.expeditionportal.com

 

[slepe67]

Finished painting cabinets.
2 cans primer
2 cans semi gloss black
3 cans sating tan
1 can satin clear

 

[slepe67]

 

[slepe67]

I had some scrap white formica plywood lying around. Figured I'd try to use it to keep costs down.

I saved the old countertop and traced it onto the new formica. I may wind up going with wood, not sure how I feel about this. it may look better when I cut a T-slot into the side and add rubber molding.

As far as the cabinet doors go...I cut them to same size as originals...I seriously dont like them, so I sanded down the originals and painted them to match the cabinets.

While that's all drying...it's time to tackle exterior lighting. The OEM housings are junk, so I found an exact replacement at the local farm supply. PM Lights V180A.

Got em wired in and connected to my truck. None worked except the right rear, of which EVERYTHING worked properly.

Tried to find a wiring manual for this camper online, then realized...I have about 3 wires to sort thru, get off the damn internet and LOOK at them!

Yup. forgot to hook up the hidden 12V hot wire, so the circuit was indeed broken.

 

[slepe67]

In order to get these lights to work, I had to actually create a grounding circuit (OEK was a hot wire only, the light grounded itself to the mounting rivets) which I pulled the white wire off of this kit & ran it alongside the brown Hot Wire for the exterior lights. Good wraps, heat shrink. Done.


Next step, re-inspect wiring and light operation, re-install interior panels & install cabinets.

For the cabinets, the factory stapled them to the floor. Since I plan on taking this kn some of Montana's finer gravel roads, I'll install to floor via nuts and lockwashers.

When THAT is done....ceiling vent install and then to CANVAS!

Also on deck:
- 4" TriFold memory Foam Mattress
- Harbor Freight Floor Mats. adds a kttle cushion and insulation to the bottom of the mattresses
- Cassette Toilet (need to build a small cabinet for it)
- Kitchen Sink & cook surface ala plastic folding table. Still thinking this thru as well.


Will probably keep OEM cabinet to hold sink in, this will allow me to NOT cut a hole intk the table and use it for other things.


Gotta love those 70's colors!

 

[slepe67]

One of the side out beds needs to be addressed before buttoning things up. Im guessing my brother or I probably did some jumping on this long ago and cracked the plywood. It's broken all the way through.

Since the plywood is in good shape and larger than a normal sheet (annnd Im not a woodworker so I dont want to join 2 sheets and FAIL) Im going to have to find a way to repair this.

Cracks on the top side

Cracks on the bottom side:


Perhaps a sandwich made from perforated sheetmetal, secured by flathead bots will suffice?

 

[Buddha.]

As far as electrical system goes I'd probably do solar and buy a kit, 100-200 watts. If you store this trailer outside and uncovered it would be nice to know the batteries are being looked after by the solar while you're out of town.
I'd switch any internal/external camp lights to LED(warm light for interior unless you want a headache) and add a few USB chargers and a quality cig plug outlet for phones, fridge, miscellaneous power needs.

100W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit w/Wanderer 10A Charge Controller

Renogy Solar Starter Kits feature a 10-year material and workmanship warranty on solar panels and a 2-year warranty on PWM charge controllers. They include all necessary equipment for building a basic system that is beginner-friendly.

www.renogy.com

Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket: Sports & Outdoors

Buy Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket: Charging Stations - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[slepe67]

Wired in the 4 pin adapter. Twice. Got in a rush and bought the VEHICLE end, not the trailer end...UGH...



Now the side markers all work. And my tails do not.

Coleman didnt do the Average Joe any favors when it comes to repairs down the road.

In order to get the tail light housings off, you basically have to pull the back end of the trailer off, which will allow you to drill out 2 rivets and remove the housing. Im not doing that. LOL



So, why do I need to pull the housing?

The passenger side lens has been glued on. and it's NOT coming off. And Coleman has discontinued this part, which is old and brittle as all hell.


If I can get the lens off, Im 99% certain I can get a new plug and adapter on, and convert to LED.

Until then...I think I'll install the Roof Vent. Im sure nothing will go wrong. ?

 

[slepe67]

To clarify, the tail lights did work BEFORE I rewired the 4-pin.

They do work now, but they only work when jiggled.

Maybe I can just clean them and try to re-install with LED bulbs.

I have a feeling Im going to break something old in the process.


Unobtanium?


Here's the socket itself. when inserted, the bulb doesnt get any push back from the socket, so Im sure thats why it has to be jiggled. Shouldnt it be "spring-loaded"?


And The Bulb

 

[slepe67]

The exact thing I need!

Pop-up Camper Tail Lights Rebuild

Pop-up Camper Tail Lights Rebuild: This instructable documents my process for rebuilding the tail lights of my early 1970's Coleman pop-up camper. I was unable to find appropriate replacement parts locally nor online, so I reconfigured them to take new bayonet sockets (BAY15d). These…

www.instructables.com

 

[slepe67]

As far as electrical system goes I'd probably do solar and buy a kit, 100-200 watts. If you store this trailer outside and uncovered it would be nice to know the batteries are being looked after by the solar while you're out of town.
I'd switch any internal/external camp lights to LED(warm light for interior unless you want a headache) and add a few USB chargers and a quality cig plug outlet for phones, fridge, miscellaneous power needs.

100W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit w/Wanderer 10A Charge Controller

Renogy Solar Starter Kits feature a 10-year material and workmanship warranty on solar panels and a 2-year warranty on PWM charge controllers. They include all necessary equipment for building a basic system that is beginner-friendly.

www.renogy.com

Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket: Sports & Outdoors

Buy Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket: Charging Stations - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Thanks, Just saw this a tad late.

As you can probably tell, im getting my bitt kicked by 45 yr old plastic and rivets right now, but am still looking onto power requirements. We wont need much, and will use the camper very soon, which will give us opportunity to figure out what we want and where we want it. i have a few small solar phone chargers and rechargeable lights which will get us to the poijt of doing some serious work to our campers power supply system.

Thanks for chiming in!

 

[Backroad Explorer]

Great Job on your project. Been watching for sometime.
N.A.P.A. Auto Parts sells a replacement pig tail for that two wire socket.
Part # LS-6452 about 5$. If you need a one wire Pt # LS-6257.
Hope this helps.

Brian
N7BMH

 

[slepe67]

I found that part....then this happened...

It just crumbled.

So, the existing hole needs to be covered.

The hole itself is 6" wide by 3-1/8" high. I wouldnt mind at all, but it's recessed in. bigger lights wont sit flush, and I'll get leaks.

I do have a bunch of 1/8" ply lying around. could I fill the gap with that, then install aftermarket light, apply dicor sealant around the seams and be done with it? Janky, but it could work...

 

[slepe67]

So far, this has been the worst part. hands down. Which isnt too bad, actually. ?

 

[slepe67]

Great Job on your project. Been watching for sometime.
N.A.P.A. Auto Parts sells a replacement pig tail for that two wire socket.
Part # LS-6452 about 5$. If you need a one wire Pt # LS-6257.
Hope this helps.

Brian
N7BMH

Thanks for the help, I looked your parts up. Then GENTLY tapped on a rivet and it shattered.
I think now I will cover the hole with a 3-1/8" × 8" strip of aluminum sheet, Dicor all that in and install a more modern LED light assembly. Something I can actually find outside of the Coleman Museum. ?