1987 4runner travel light build

[Skitrash]

My 1st 1st generation. Previous rigs, 1985 toyota pu (wrecked in 1987;-), 1972 Volkswagen thing (most fun), 1972 Volkswagen bus (home for 2 years), lifted 1986 subaru wagon (most ski area visits), 1978 toyota mini cruiser mh (most nights spent in ski area parking lots).
My plan is to build this one light and to use it as I build. Don't want a hobby on blocks.
I would always appreciate any advise from others with experience on 1st generation or same vintage trucks.
My starting point.TACH]

 

[4runnerteq]

Well, since you asked. Lately, I have taken more of a liking to bone stock, maybe one size over stock tires trucks. For probably, Im guessing, most of us, that's all we really NEED. Yeah, the lifts and big tires and all look sweet but? There was a guy who stopped in the dealership last week travelling from Idaho to Florida. He was in a 97 Taco, extended cab 4wd with a topper and roof top carrier. Steel wheels, manual hubs, 225/15s. He had a sleeping platform in back. Truck had 240k miles on it. It was awesome, and he was having a large time with it. Best advice I can give. KEEP IT SIMPLE. I bought both my sons 92 and 93 Toyota 4wds with 22RE and automatic. Regular cab,plain jane. One drove his for 10 years and just last year bought himself a 17 Taco. We had put 31x10.50s on it and kept everything else stock. The other had 270k on it when we bought it, same BFG 31x10.50s, everything else stock, it has 300k now. KISS. I love how my 4runner is set up, but Im constantly looking for a deal on 89 to 94 pick ups. Enjoy that 1st gen.

 

[Skitrash]

Well, since you asked. Lately, I have taken more of a liking to bone stock, maybe one size over stock tires trucks. For probably, Im guessing, most of us, that's all we really NEED. Yeah, the lifts and big tires and all look sweet but? There was a guy who stopped in the dealership last week travelling from Idaho to Florida. He was in a 97 Taco, extended cab 4wd with a topper and roof top carrier. Steel wheels, manual hubs, 225/15s. He had a sleeping platform in back. Truck had 240k miles on it. It was awesome, and he was having a large time with it. Best advice I can give. KEEP IT SIMPLE. I bought both my sons 92 and 93 Toyota 4wds with 22RE and automatic. Regular cab,plain jane. One drove his for 10 years and just last year bought himself a 17 Taco. We had put 31x10.50s on it and kept everything else stock. The other had 270k on it when we bought it, same BFG 31x10.50s, everything else stock, it has 300k now. KISS. I love how my 4runner is set up, but Im constantly looking for a deal on 89 to 94 pick ups. Enjoy that 1st gen.

I'm with with you on staying close to stock, these are the tires that were on it when purchased (285/70/17). I've decided to run them through the summer then go to a smaller at come winter, these are awful in the snow.

 

[Skitrash]

I picked this rig up a couple of days before a total rupture of my Achilles tendon in a snowmobile mishap. Here's what's been done so far:
Motor rebuilt, new crank, cam, new starter,
new water pump, thermostat, alternator, ect. I think I've worked out most of the bugs under the hood. Next I need to install a new motor for the rear window and either get new keys made (mine don't work for the doors) or put new lock cylinders in). The front windows are a little iffy too, thinking of searching the junk yards and replacing the elec Windows with manual.

 

[redthies]

Well, I’m liking your rig as is. I may be biased though (see pic below). I’m running BFG MTs off a late model Rubicon. They are 255/70-17s, so just a tad over 32” and skinny. They actually work fairly well in snow too. I’m also planning to keep mine quite simple. Some better lights, a better radio and I may get to light bumpers and a multi mount winch at some point. Mechanically, it will stay as stock as possible. Mine has OME suspension.

 

[Skitrash]

Well, I’m liking your rig as is. I may be biased though (see pic below). I’m running BFG MTs off a late model Rubicon. They are 255/70-17s, so just a tad over 32” and skinny. They actually work fairly well in snow too. I’m also planning to keep mine quite simple. Some better lights, a better radio and I may get to light bumpers and a multi mount winch at some point. Mechanically, it will stay as stock as possible. Mine has OME suspension.View attachment 500738

Nice rig, that's probably closer to the tire size I'm looking for, have heard good things about the Cooper AT in the snow. Winter is important to me. Skiing, snowmobiling, backcountry skiing, plus I'm about one mile in elevation out my front door - and it's all uphill from there. Nice wheels.

 

[Saint Nick]

Nice truck, just wish they were more available over here. I agree, I'd keep it closer to standard than highly modified. I would go as far as 33" tyres but no larger, and the Coopers are a good choice. I use the Cooper ST Maxx 285/75/16 so just a tad over 11 1/2" wide. Drives great on road and good enough for me off road.

Nick.

 

[redthies]

Nice rig, that's probably closer to the tire size I'm looking for, have heard good things about the Cooper AT in the snow. Winter is important to me. Skiing, snowmobiling, backcountry skiing, plus I'm about one mile in elevation out my front door - and it's all uphill from there. Nice wheels.

I run the ST Maxx on my 100 series and Dodge 3500. They are a fantastic tire. My wife and I both work in a ski town, so are no strangers to mountains and lots of snow. The Maxxs have proven themselves. And yeah, got to like the wheels! I was shopping for the 16” 4Runner Limited 5 spokes, but couldn’t find any for reasonable money. Mine is my 3rd vehicle so primarily a toy. The budget reflects that. I paid $120 for the set of 17” wheels, and $150 for 5 of the BFG MTs at 75% tread. That’s a great deal in my opinion!

I snowmobile a lot as well, and used to look after grooming for an extensive snowmobile trail system in a PB 300.

 

[Skitrash]

This is the lift that she came with. It may be taller than I'm looking for, I want it to be a combo of work truck (I do a lot of mountain jobs), grocery n kid hauler, and camping rig. The rear looks easy enough to modify. The front, I'm not sure? I'd like to see it somewhere around 2" above stock, it's got a 4" lift now. For this summer at least I'll drive it as it is and stew on it. Any knowledge on the front suspention would be greatly appreciated.
Front of the front suspention.

Back of the front suspension.
My understanding is that if I want to lower it a bit I may need to replace the shocks. Seems everything I read in here is on how to raise them.?

 

[deadbeat son]

Any knowledge on the front suspention would be greatly appreciated.
...
My understanding is that if I want to lower it a bit I may need to replace the shocks. Seems everything I read in here is on how to raise them.?

That's a drop-bracket lift. Basically, the front crossmember is removed and the entire thing is spaced down, along with the front differential and lower control arms. I'm not familiar enough with the 1st gen IFS to know whether the crossmember had to be cut out to install the lift. And yes, you will probably need 4" shorter shocks too, but those may work.

 

[zelseman]

The front likely has a ball joint spacer and a torsion bar crank in addition to the crossmember drop. You can lower the front a bit with no extra parts, simply crank them down. The rear you could likely lose the blocks or go with shorter blocks and keep the same height shocks all the way around.

I would definitely loose the big tires in favor of the 31x10.5x15 size. It’s a good size for stock gearing.

Check our site over at www.okienomads.com we have a bunch of posts and photos of our 1st gen.

 

[Skitrash]

That's a drop-bracket lift. Basically, the front crossmember is removed and the entire thing is spaced down, along with the front differential and lower control arms. I'm not familiar enough with the 1st gen IFS to know whether the crossmember had to be cut out to install the lift. And yes, you will probably need 4" shorter shocks too, but those may work.

On the passenger side there was a little cutting, there's one bolt hole missing.

 

[Skitrash]

The front likely has a ball joint spacer and a torsion bar crank in addition to the crossmember drop. You can lower the front a bit with no extra parts, simply crank them down. The rear you could likely lose the blocks or go with shorter blocks and keep the same height shocks all the way around.

I would definitely loose the big tires in favor of the 31x10.5x15 size. It’s a good size for stock gearing.

Check our site over at www.okienomads.com we have a bunch of posts and photos of our 1st gen.

I didn't notice that it did/Didn't have a ball joint spacer, I'll Check it out. I'm planning to go to smaller tires, probably run these for the summer since they're paid for. As for stock gearing, it seems lower than stock. I think I should be able to jack it up and spin one revolution and count how many times my driveline spins to figure out the gearing.
Any thoughts on how durable the crossmember drop is? Thinking of losing it.

 

[Saint Nick]

IMHO your truck looks great and sits well. By the condition of the shocks the lift doesn't look that old but appears to be done well. If it has been done properly there is no reason why it shouldn't last forever, but if you want to lower everything then you would want to lose it. Check the numbers on the shocks to see what type they are and they may be ok to use. Saying that, I think you should leave it as it is

Nick

 

[Skitrash]

IMHO your truck looks great and sits well. By the condition of the shocks the lift doesn't look that old but appears to be done well. If it has been done properly there is no reason why it shouldn't last forever, but if you want to lower everything then you would want to lose it. Check the numbers on the shocks to see what type they are and they may be ok to use. Saying that, I think you should leave it as it is

Nick

I'm planning to leave it as is for the summer to see how I like it. I know the shocks (bilstiens) are new, shame to lose those. My reason for wanting (I think) it lower is because I'm going to use it as a mountain commuter much of the time to and from jobsites. I'm thinking it will be easier to load/unload tools and such from the back and the planned future racks.