1988 HJ61 Highway vibration help

[clang]

Hello,

My 1988 HJ61 has a somewhat intermittent and variable intensity vibration from about 60 to 70 mph. It has had it since I bought it a couple of months ago. It is not bad, but it is annoying. It does not always do it, and the speed range varies a bit as does the intensity. It runs smooth up to about 60, and then again above about 70. it does not shake side to side, and it does not pull to either side.
It is a mostly stock truck.

• No lift currently. Planning on an Ironman 2", but want to sort this out first.
• The stock springs are worn, but not shot.
• Toyota 16" split rims with near new BF Goodrich AllTerrain T/As 275/70-16.
• I replaced the shocks about a month ago with factory spec heavy duty shocks
• All four wheels balanced
• Full alignment
• Steering box adjusted and tightened

:smilies27

What else should I be looking at?

Thanks!

 

[RMP&O]

Drive line, rear.

Wheel bearings can cause it but generally will be under a wider variance of speed. Easy to check wheel bearings, jack up truck, grab wheel and try to move side to side. Any play at all and you need to replace your wheel bearings.

Worn out suspension can cause it, especially with leaf springs. Slop in the shackles and bushing is usually the reason. Bad suspension generally though is a wobble, shakes, even bump steer.

Do a the lift, then address your drivelines. Any good drive line shop can check to see if yours if balanced correctly.

Cheers

 

[Skids HJ61]

man, you really drive yours at 70 mph, your a braver man than me....mine would shake all over the place at that speed :Wow1:

I agree tho, check wheel bearings and uni joints in the rear tail shaft, they can cause speed vibrations.

 

[clang]

Thanks for the info everyone. I'll check things out tonight if I have time.

Skids, I normally drive at not more than about 60, but that seems to be the sweet spot for causing the vibration. At 55 to 60 I average about 28mpg over 70 it drops to about 22...

 

[Skids HJ61]

Thanks for the info everyone. I'll check things out tonight if I have time.

Skids, I normally drive at not more than about 60, but that seems to be the sweet spot for causing the vibration. At 55 to 60 I average about 28mpg over 70 it drops to about 22...

cool, I didnt think you were suicidal...haha

when you check the front wheel bearings, you probably already know, but grab the tyre at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clcok position and see if there is any movement..ive seen some try to do it at the 3 and 9 o'clock position which is less accurate way of doing it as your also pushing against the steering rods etc. Also, when you check the rear universal joints in the tailshaft, do it with the car in nuetral and hand brake off (chock the wheels tho!!) and the uni's should have no movement in them.......

let us know how you get on.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I'll echo the other comments, start with u-joints, shaft balance, wheel bearings, steering joints and knuckle bearings. All easily sourced and replaced and common vibration culprits. Check for play, tighten or replace as needed.

 

[clang]

Thank you everyone. I did not have a chance to get to this last night, but I will dive in on Friday and see what I can find out.

I'll keep the group updated.

 

[Timothynaustin]

I would also add

Hello I would also add my 1986 hj60 had a bad intermittent wobble at around 80-90 klm`s, it was a buckled wheel.

Replaced rims and had them balanced Sweet to drive now, also rebuilt wheel bearings and hubs nice.

cheers

 

[theside00]

While you are under there you could check the pinion bearing. If you wiggle the driveline and the pinion moves around then it might be time to tighten it or rebuild the diff.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Could be castor adjustment,but check the cheap stuff 1st

 

[alan]

Also when checking back wheel bearings, you must remove axle to get a correct feel of free play in the wheel bearing, steer clear of ironman suspension it's rubbish!

 

[clang]

Also when checking back wheel bearings, you must remove axle to get a correct feel of free play in the wheel bearing, steer clear of ironman suspension it's rubbish!

Ironman would not have been my first choice, but here in the states, I'm having trouble finding a reasonably priced replacement suspension for my diesel LC. The prices I am being quoted are $2- 3K because of the specialty (at least in the US) front springs. Ironman came in at just about $1K. Im not looking for big lift or anything super duty, just a refresh of the worn out stock suspension. I tend to be a proponent of keeping things as close to stock as possible without a specific need, which I don't have in this case. My JH61 has handled anything I have thrown at it with no issues on the stock setup. I don't foresee doing anything more extreme than I have already done in terms of off pavement terrain.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.

 

[clang]

OK, bit of an update - I lifted up the LC to check on things on the underside. First thing I checked was the front wheels. They were both loose, not bad, but detectable play in the wheel. I pulled the hub locks, lock nut and washer, and was able to tighten the large nut that preloads the bearings. Both sides still within torque spec and now, no detectable play. The drive shaft bolts are tight, and there is no slop in the drive shaft. The u-joints feel good. AT fluid is good, and surprisingly clean. I haven't driven it yet, but hopefully my vibration will be gone.

Question - are the wheel bearings the same as a NAS 60 series, or do I need to get something specific to the HJ? Might as well order a set, just in case.

 

[Mrknowitall]

Rocky road lists the suspension for just over a grand (OME stuff)- the diesel is not that much heavier than the gasser- both are all iron I-6 motors. The heavy gasoline spring is the same part as the light diesel spring. The heavy diesel spring has one more leaf. With your PTO that one might be the one to have. Shipping from OZ is killer, but if you're willing to wait, Rocky should be able to get it to you without crazy charges.
The front WB's should be the same as the NA model, but your rear is a full floater, which never came on NA 60's.

 

[clang]

Great info. Thanks!

Rocky road lists the suspension for just over a grand (OME stuff)- the diesel is not that much heavier than the gasser- both are all iron I-6 motors. The heavy gasoline spring is the same part as the light diesel spring. The heavy diesel spring has one more leaf. With your PTO that one might be the one to have. Shipping from OZ is killer, but if you're willing to wait, Rocky should be able to get it to you without crazy charges.
The front WB's should be the same as the NA model, but your rear is a full floater, which never came on NA 60's.