1989 4Runner Expo Build

ChuckB

Expedition Leader
Rather Diesel said:
Maryland said "bring it in when you get the emmisions notice, we walk out, see it's really a diesel, and we write up a waiver."

I already have the Mercedes turbo-diesel and auto-transmission.

Roy

Can I say in the nicest way possible that I hate you and I'm jealous!!! :bowdown:
 
The truck was gutted inside and out. The only rust damage on the frame was the front crossmember. This was removed and replaced with a piece of 2"x3"x.25" rectangle.

The entire frame was stripped to bare metal and primed with Rust Bullet. I have never seen a paint get so hard in my life! This stuff turns to stone!
 
Every part was removed from the truck, first inspected, stripped, primed and painted. I wanted this to be a NEW '89 4Runner when I'm done. If the part needed replaced, it was done at this time.
 
Here is one of the server-rack side panels. This panel is 30" high. I removed the tail lamps and shortened the rear bedside panels about 5" so the new body lines would match better.

You can see one of the double rear doors. These were removed and replaced with a single unit.
 
Here's a pic from the front. The roof rack was also tossed, but may be replaced with a new design when needed. I'd like to avoid a roof rack because I might make this my daily driver,and may need the better MPG. Iwill definitely add roof rack brackets now,in case I need a rack later. If I make the brackets lengthwise with nuts pre-installed, I can't imagine they would create any drag without a rack attached to them.
 
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upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Wow, what a great project. I'm curious to see how the interior turns out and what route you go with the suspension to cope with the new weight and offroad demands.
 
upcruiser said:
Wow, what a great project. I'm curious to see how the interior turns out and what route you go with the suspension to cope with the new weight and offroad demands.

I'll probably go with OME torsion bars up front. I was thinking about Firestone airbags for the back with the stock springs. The weight of my rig will vary widely from daily-driver to ready-for-expo.

I can't even consider an SAS until after the truck is MD inspected. I really don't think it would offer much benefit for my application.

I am open to input, though.

Roy
 
After removing the tail lamps and the double doors, I shortened the body about 5", I then used 2x3x.25 rectangle, and drove it as far up the rear frame rails as it would go. It's seems strange, but even with shortening the body, I still needed to lengthen the frame about 8".

The "spare tire crossmember" needed to be removed to make room for the auxilliary fuel tank. Obviously, the spare needed to go as well. The aux tank is from a military Blazer. It holds 27 gallons. I made a cage of 3/4" square tube to surround the tank . I then used 3/16" steel plate to attach the "cage" to the frame rails. The fuel tank should now support the entire weight of the truck in the rear. I'll add a bolt-on skid plate a little later.

After all the inner structure was welded up on the rear body, I plated it with 16 gauge sheetmetal. All accessories shown on the rear body are just tack-welded in place. Well,not the window. :p That's an eBay special just held in with duct tape for now. Because the rear window is pretty small, I guess a backup camera or bigger side mirrors may be needed.
 
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One jerry-can may go since I'm carrying a lot of fuel. I want to keep one to help other folks who may run out, and need a trip to the gas station. (when used as a daily-driver)

I'm thinking of moving the one can to the rear door, moving the ladder to the left, and moving the jack to the right side. I'd appreciate input on these decisions.

The rear bumper is 2x6x.25 rectangle. The shackle mounts go the whole way thru the bumper and become the inner bumper brackets. The outside bumper brackets are 1/4" plate. The new extended frame rails are sandwiched between these bumper brackets. The bumper will serve double duty as a air tank.

The black rectangle above the door is a vent that can open face-up or face-down. After paint, I'll mount two 50mm 12v fans (seperately switched) to keep the condensation inside the cabin to a minimum.
 
I made some progress on the rear interior. I used 1/2"square tubing for the structure. It might not be the lightest, but I'm comfortable working with it, and I have a MIG welder. It's tough to see what's really going on i the photos, but here they are anyway.

Looking back from passenger side door:
 

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