1991 D21 Build

APOS

New member
Introducing my overland build-in-progress:
1991 D21 4x4 with the KA24 and a 5-speed manual.

Backstory: My girlfriend and I do a lot of rockhounding and photography, taking us to some pretty remote locations. I wanted to start with a reasonably priced platform that could haul all of our gear and three dogs. It just so happens we knew someone who wanted to sell an older D21. It had been sitting for years, so it needed a little TLC to get it going.

The paint was shot and the clear coat was failing on most of the truck, with surface rust starting to form. I stripped it completely down to bare metal and gave it a fresh new slice of life. I decided to break the paint at the body line and went with a bedliner down the lower half of the truck
for brush, sticks and other backcountry obstacles. I upgraded the headlights to some LED units and threw a $40 Craigslist canopy on it to contain the pups and our gear (planning to find a better canopy setup).

SO - while it may look good, I am now looking to pursue some of the more important parts of the build: Suspension, Steering, Tires, Bumpers. I appreciate any feedback I could get on the below options:


Suspension: Browsing through other D21 threads I've compiled a list of possible setups. Because we are hauling 2 humans, 3 dogs and all of our gear (canvas tent, fuel, water, food, etc), and with the future addition of heavy bumpers, I feel like we need a setup to handle some weight. Not to mention, it is a 4-banger. Lots of travel on washboard roads, roads that have been washed away, the works.

1) Hardbody Delux Suspension Package with Blistein Shocks by 4x4 Parts - LINK
2) Hardbody Delux Suspension Package with RS9000XL Shocks by 4x4 Parts - LINK
3) Hardbody Heavy Load Lift Kit by Rugged Rocks - LINK

Steering: To address the weak steering that I have heard so much about (luckily for me, I haven't had to experience it).

1) Centerlink Replacement by GrassRoots4x4 - LINK
2) Hardbody Steering Enhancement Package by 4x4 Parts - LINK

Bumpers: I'd like to go with an ARB front bumper with an integrated winch (or even a front/rear swappable 2" winch setup). The rear bumper I would like to do a swing-out tire carrier with some jerry can mounts (haven't found one yet for the D21).

1) Delux Bull Bar by ARB - LINK

Tires: Based on the powertrain and practicality, I think sticking with 31x10.5 R15 is the best course of action. I'd love to go to a 32x10.5 or 33x10.5 but I think it would bog the truck down too much.

Any input on the build is appreciated. Thanks for looking.


4rZoRyP.jpg


ilgKnlA.jpg
 

jhberria

Adventurer
Awesome truck! I love the old straight-line, square body Nissans. They seem to be purpose built for utilitarianism. Welcome to the forums and can't wait to follow the build.
 

APOS

New member
Appreciate it! Agreed, I love the look. I've always enjoyed driving something a little older and different than the norm.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

dvdswan

Member
Great looking truck. IMO I would really keep it stock height just for sake of cost. I've been down the modifying road, no regrets mind you, but keep it simple until you want to go to the next step. The UCA lift is a waste of money IMO. I've done it. Wasn't satisfied.

I would suggest with this and see how you like it...
1. Idler arm brace/bracket - idler arm is the weak link on all IFS trucks. I bent mine just going up a steep road in 4 low from a start on the hill. just a bit too much gas on the start after stopping on the hill.
2. Do a PML (poor man's lift) - Crank the T-bars up about an inch and a 1" longer shackle in the rear. 31s fit stock and 32s will require you to hammer the body seam in the front wheel well flat to the body. With the aftermarket kits you will eat up the ball joints and put stress on the axle joints. Plus the kits will kill you down travel to nothing. If you do go with a kit leave about 3/4" down travel for the suspension (saves ball joints and axle joints) but will only give you about 1-1/2" to 2" of lift.
3. Find out what your axle code is. Located on the door jamb sticker. This will tell you what your gear ratio is. Should be a something like CA43 or CA46. If you are lucky it might be a HG axle. CA denotes that you have a C200 rear / R180 front. 43/46 denotes the gear ratio. 43 is a 4.375 ratio, 46 is a 4.636. There are others ratios but those are the most common in a 4WD. If you have a 43 or higher ratio, swapping to a 46 is a straight forward swap of the axles. This will compensate for the taller tires.
4. I would go with the 2" receiver setup front and rear for the winch. 1 winch where ever you need it. Bonus if you use a quick connect setup, you can use it for jumper cables as well. 2 or 0 gauge wire would be best.
winch-power-cable_rs107-base.jpg

5. Plan modifications.
 

paulforeman

Active member
Hey man, nice Hardbody. I've been through all the mods you listed, but on my 2000 Frontier. I would prioritize the Grassroots link and steering upgrades. It's a major bummer bending the idler when you're far from any services... I did it bad enough one time that I couldn't steer the truck without the tie rods crashing into the frame... I've got a post in my thread about it if you're looking for a bit more info. Feel free to hit me up when you get there. It's not hard, but I found out a couple things along the way that might make it a bit easier.

Looking forward to seeing what you're going to do with it!
 
Last edited:

APOS

New member
Great looking truck. IMO I would really keep it stock height just for sake of cost. I've been down the modifying road, no regrets mind you, but keep it simple until you want to go to the next step. The UCA lift is a waste of money IMO. I've done it. Wasn't satisfied.

I would suggest with this and see how you like it...
1. Idler arm brace/bracket - idler arm is the weak link on all IFS trucks. I bent mine just going up a steep road in 4 low from a start on the hill. just a bit too much gas on the start after stopping on the hill.
2. Do a PML (poor man's lift) - Crank the T-bars up about an inch and a 1" longer shackle in the rear. 31s fit stock and 32s will require you to hammer the body seam in the front wheel well flat to the body. With the aftermarket kits you will eat up the ball joints and put stress on the axle joints. Plus the kits will kill you down travel to nothing. If you do go with a kit leave about 3/4" down travel for the suspension (saves ball joints and axle joints) but will only give you about 1-1/2" to 2" of lift.
3. Find out what your axle code is. Located on the door jamb sticker. This will tell you what your gear ratio is. Should be a something like CA43 or CA46. If you are lucky it might be a HG axle. CA denotes that you have a C200 rear / R180 front. 43/46 denotes the gear ratio. 43 is a 4.375 ratio, 46 is a 4.636. There are others ratios but those are the most common in a 4WD. If you have a 43 or higher ratio, swapping to a 46 is a straight forward swap of the axles. This will compensate for the taller tires.
4. I would go with the 2" receiver setup front and rear for the winch. 1 winch where ever you need it. Bonus if you use a quick connect setup, you can use it for jumper cables as well. 2 or 0 gauge wire would be best.
View attachment 567853

5. Plan modifications.

Thanks for the elaborate post!

I will definitely start with the idler arm brace. I'd prefer reliability over anything - not looking to kill ball joints right and left. I know the kits state they were engineered to mimic factory angles - guess it's a chance you have to take. I'm not wild about overly lifted rigs, under 2" and only if there is an advantage to doing it. Is there a reason to go to 32" tires? Otherwise I'm happy to stay with the 31s. Oh and the axle is a CA41.

Hey man, nice Hardbody. I've been through all the mods you listed, but on my 2000 Frontier. I would prioritize the Grassroots link and steering upgrades. It's a major bummer bending the idler when you're far from any services... I did it bad enough one time that I couldn't steer the truck without the tie rods crashing into the frame... I've got a post in my thread about it if you're looking for a bit more info. Feel free to hit me up when you get there. It's not hard, but I found out a couple things along the way that might make it a bit easier.

Looking forward to seeing what you're going to do with it!

Sounds good on the Grassroots and Idler brace. Hopefully I can get those ordered next week. I will check out your post and shoot you a message before I start. Appreciate the insight!

Any recommendations on a full bushing kit? Mine are shredded.
 

dvdswan

Member
Thanks for the elaborate post!

I will definitely start with the idler arm brace. I'd prefer reliability over anything - not looking to kill ball joints right and left. I know the kits state they were engineered to mimic factory angles - guess it's a chance you have to take. I'm not wild about overly lifted rigs, under 2" and only if there is an advantage to doing it. Is there a reason to go to 32" tires? Otherwise I'm happy to stay with the 31s. Oh and the axle is a CA41.

Any recommendations on a full bushing kit? Mine are shredded.

PML would be the way to go then. I won't affect the ball joints and will give you an inch clearance for the frame. Stick with the 31s, I had 32s on factory lego wheels (factory aluminum wheels) and would rub with them at full stuff.

Since you have the CA41, I would peruse the local junkyards for a HG43 or 46 axle code. These would keep the engine happier on hills on the freeways, plus better acceleration with the 31s. You would need to get front and rear axles, if they are from a 4 cyl, they will be direct swaps. 96 and 97 HBs were only HG46 axles and 4 cyl only. V6 models you will need to get the front axle, half shafts, and the hubs.

Energy suspension had poly bushings for our trucks but I don't know if they have them anymore. I would say yes, but don't know for sure. If you use poly bushings be sure to use anti-seize lubricant on them inside and out otherwise they will start squeaking after about 6 months.
 

91hardbody

New member
Love your hardbody. I have a 91 v6 4x4 with a 2" lift from rough country and a leaf pack in the back. I'm super happy with the lift, but it's not much more clearance than I had with a poor man's lift (cranked torsion bars and leaf pack) before it. I'd say my favorite mod is the lock rite locker. I rarely have to use 4x4, mostly when I want low range. Stoked to see what you put together! I love the grey paint. My brother has the KA24 and that thing has been so reliable!

Here are some shots of mine. The top photo is the most recent but I still have the cabover (thinking about selling it). Also for a little reference--the top photo is with the rough country 2" lift on 31s, the bottom is just PML on 30's.
IMG-3727.PNGIMG-0517.JPGIMG-1666.PNGIMG-0104.JPG
 

APOS

New member
Prothane Bushing Kit D21

Energy Suspension Leaf Springs Bushings D21

D21 Bushings on Summit Racing


I have not personally used prothane, but they do make a "full kit" it looks like. I do like Energy Suspension and they are easily available on Amazon and Summit racing.

Thank you for those!

Love your hardbody. I have a 91 v6 4x4 with a 2" lift from rough country and a leaf pack in the back. I'm super happy with the lift, but it's not much more clearance than I had with a poor man's lift (cranked torsion bars and leaf pack) before it. I'd say my favorite mod is the lock rite locker. I rarely have to use 4x4, mostly when I want low range. Stoked to see what you put together! I love the grey paint. My brother has the KA24 and that thing has been so reliable!

Here are some shots of mine. The top photo is the most recent but I still have the cabover (thinking about selling it). Also for a little reference--the top photo is with the rough country 2" lift on 31s, the bottom is just PML on 30's.

Awesome rig and sorry for the late reply! Are those some custom sliders? I have not been able to do any work on it yet, things have been hectic. I did have the carrier bearing blow out on me on the road, so that was a bummer. I limped to a shop and they replaced the carrier bearing, rear driveline ujoints, and the tcase rear output seal while they were down there. Hopefully more progress soon!
 

Dsk28

New member
Nice trucks guys, I miss my old 5 speed k24 hardbody....it was my first truck. Thing would probably still be running around if it wasn’t for the rust.
 

91hardbody

New member
Thank you for those!



Awesome rig and sorry for the late reply! Are those some custom sliders? I have not been able to do any work on it yet, things have been hectic. I did have the carrier bearing blow out on me on the road, so that was a bummer. I limped to a shop and they replaced the carrier bearing, rear driveline ujoints, and the tcase rear output seal while they were down there. Hopefully more progress soon!

Thanks! The sliders are Trail Gear:

 

paulforeman

Active member
Thank you for those!



Awesome rig and sorry for the late reply! Are those some custom sliders? I have not been able to do any work on it yet, things have been hectic. I did have the carrier bearing blow out on me on the road, so that was a bummer. I limped to a shop and they replaced the carrier bearing, rear driveline ujoints, and the tcase rear output seal while they were down there. Hopefully more progress soon!

Any news on the D21? Did you take any trips or make progress or mods over the summer?
 

APOS

New member
Any news on the D21? Did you take any trips or make progress or mods over the summer?
Unfortunately with everything going on, I ended up selling the truck. I'm hoping to sell my Ridgeline soon to get another smaller pickup platform to start on. I'm thinking another Nissan or maybe a Ranger. With our state burning down, I really need to get something going.
 

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