1993 Starcraft Roadmaster 850. Finally out camping.

[jrod420]

I don't like the center seam. I also don't like the marker lights up front. So many holes for water to be forced into when driving at highway speeds. I think I will delete the marker lights front and rear, just use some appropriate reflectors. I also smashed the porchlight off with my elbow during the top removal process, the brittle jagged bits drew blood. oh yea, fixin ****. this might be a me vs my camper rant.

Anyway, I removed the 3 jacks, gonna remove the mounts. I want to bolt it to my bed, but I was wondering if I should use a 3/4 ply sheet to allow some movement? Bolt just the floor? Or floor brackets tying into the sides? Anybody choose this method?
I want to attach it to the bed because this truck only takes my wife and I to the mountains or long trips, tow our quad trailer with two small quads, to a nice remote spot. This year it gets its 4" lift, dana60 swap, new clutch n stuff, regear, and some 40's. Allready got the extended tailgate ladder and bracket. lol. oh yea, and the 60 and the lift...:ylsmoke:

Anyway, If anyone with experience or advice on the floor bolting idea? Or some pics? Also some highway friendly 40" mud terrains...:********:

 

[Scoutman]

I'm also impressed you got that roof off by yourself without getting hurt or damaging it further.

Marker lights, I doubt it will ever be an issue for you but those lights are required by some states for vehicles over a certain width. Reflectors may not be a substitute. That being said there are better lights that don't require the huge holes and multiple roof penetrations.

The middle seam is something you're going to have to decide if it's worth the cost to delete. Part of what you go back with will be determined by what is directly under that AL skin. To my knowledge your seamless roofing options are..
-seamless aluminum roofing (few hundred plus oversize shipping) ~102" wide
-seamless filon (FRP) (fiberglass and gelcoat) (cheaper but still oversize shipping if you can't get local) ~102" wide
-Rubber (EPDM) (requires a backer board)
-PVC (requires a backer board)

There may be others but this is assuming your not into hand laid fiberglass or something else more labor intensive.

 

[jrod420]

Taking the roof off was scary at the time. Looking back it wasn't too bad. I just walked the roof towards the rear of the camper with it on my back while inside the popup. When the balance was just right hanging off the back I got out and jumped up and grabbed it. Tilted it towards the ground and just slid it down being careful to keep it aligned with the camper as to not damage the edges. Tilted it up on that piece of plywood and drove the truck out from underneath. Wifey helped carry it into the garage.
I think you may be correct about the lights, I live in southern Alberta. The laws for trucks are pretty lax. I have a big block 460, headers, dual dumps at the pumpkin. There are no emission laws here, I think I will chance the light issue.

The aluminum roof skin you speak of, is it premade? I dont understand. Or is it a by the roll product. I would like to check with some local heating a/c companies or is it an RV product.?
Acetone to clean the old putty off right?

Scoutman-I miss my old cherokee...

Im gonna do some work on the roof tonight. Is the alumaskin glued down? If i remove it, is it destroyed? Thinking about just fixing the front and rear panels...Hmmm...Resealing the rest.

Would still like to know more about the bolting to the box idea...

 

[Scoutman]

The aluminum roofing that I found online was a roll product that you purchase by the foot. The roll would be ~102" wide and however many feet long.
http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2162

Also you may check with tractor trailer mfg's or box truck repair shops as they may also have some large sheet products or may be able to point you in the correct direction.

What I would first determine is how far back does the damage go. Just looking from the pictures it doesn't look like anything other than the front and rear panels are affected. If that's the case then I would peel back the skin as far as you need, replace the damage and then glue the skin back down and replace the lights or seal up the holes. The only reason I replaced the entire roof on mine was because it ripped all the way back to the AC and there was no good way to fix it. You may be better off time and $$ wise to fix the front and back and then reseal the seam down the middle. A healthy tube of silkaflex (or sealant of choice) would do that seam nicely and every few years you can peel it off and replace it. As for the current AL skin, it should be glued down and probably directly to the wood frame and foam insulation (see picts in my thread of what's under the skin). Peeling it back will be a tender process so you don't kink the metal or rip up the material that it's glued to. Use a metal putty knife (perhaps sharpened) and take your time. As for the butyl tape, scrape as much as you can off and then acetone the residue. The acetone will be ok on the filon sides but it will take the white paint off the metal or any painted trim pieces.

 

[jrod420]

I am going to look close at the damage after work tonight. I think your suggestion of just repairing the front and rear for now is the way to go. I will just clean and reseal the rest. Ill update with some more pics later tonight. This is how we used to do it. The big tent is the kitchen. We sleep in the topper on a full queen size pillowtop. We woke up that morning to snow. I think the furnace in the popup will be welcomed! Cant wait!

 

[Scoutman]

Just published. Some things in here you may want to read up on.
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-tech/how-to-inspect-and-repair-camper-seals

 

[jrod420]

Good thing I read that suggested reading. I woulda used some home exterior silicone, and the acetone would have made a mess of the white lower cap on the roof. LOL! Thanks for posting that up Scoutman. I have your build thread on my bookmark bar. My old 1993 is all aluminum sides so acetone will make a big mess I imagine. I never got to the roof last night to inspect the water damage. Tonight I hope, I have all weekend as well. We rarely venture out on the May long weekend as it seems that all the rowdy crowds are out and about. I like to skip that nonsense, highway checkstops, trouble makers in the mountains. Just getting older I guess... Also, stay home to plant the garden and sorts.

Anyway, I appreciate the info this site has to offer. I looked for some bolting to the bed options and only found the expo, articulating shock absorber mounts of the big camper set ups. I couldn't find anything for bolting a pop up down. Maybe its just not done...

 

[Scoutman]

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...g-down-wood-frame-campers?highlight=bolt+down

 

[Scoutman]

I did use a high quality white silicone caulk to seal up all of my stuff but that is what was on there originally so I went back with it. Some swear not to, some say it's ok.

 

[jrod420]

I also read about your mule build. This was a plan of mine as well, to be pulled behind my 1991 XJ. Roof top tent, all the fixings. My wife had grown increasingly uncomfortable in the high mountains on off camber trails, doing climbs that most would turn around at, in our only mode of transportation. As much as I love to offroad, I love her more so we sold the Jeep and bought two matching Yamaha Kodiak 450's. Now she is in control of her own machine as we climb and traverse the trails, snow, mud and the sort. Still miss that XJ tho, and your mule build is just top notch! I use a pintle hitch on my quad trailer as well, allows alot more articulation going through washes and things.

I could read this forum all day...In fact, I have.

 

[Scoutman]

It is pretty addictive. I wouldn't want to pull the mule with an xj. I know some do but I think it's just too big IMO. A full size pulls it nicely tho.

 

[jrod420]

Originally the dana 60 swap was for the XJ with a ls3 powerplant. It would've yanked that mule anywhere, and the big brakes of the 1 ton axle on stopping duty. My big old ford came after, but the SAS was from a f350, so will bolt right up to my f250. Did I mention i miss that old XJ.

How does a guy attach a 40 inch spare tire? tailgate fold out, or down. How about oldschool style like dads ranch truck, a big ol 40" BFG just infront of the winch bumper? Lol! There is a really nice brown ford with a swing out carrier for bikes and fuel on here somewhere, but now I cant find it. I think that would be the ticket for the big rubber. I guess, how do others deal with carrying a 40 inch spare?

 

[jrod420]

Found it! Just wish I knew who to give credit to. This is another build that I read, also with a mule I believe. Anyway, that swing out looks like it would handle a large spare.

 

[Scoutman]

That is SLO_F250's build.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/80314-SLO-s-FWC-Hawk-Refurb-Build

 

[jrod420]

My darling wife is getting worried about the destruction to the camper. I assure her that is is not destruction just re-construction.
Does anyone have any info about resetting the preload on the lift assist. I have the crank style with the preload spring in the outer tubes. I heard they could be a rubber torsion type spring or a spring spring. I think I will start a new post for this.