1994 2nd Gen Hilux Surf 3.0 turbodiesel 'Sasquatch'

surf_baka

New member
Thanks for the write Owen. It's nice to have another KZN130 owner to exchange info with. Not a terribly prevalent Toyota model over here in the US.
Interesting that you mention Auber, just a couple hours ago, I place an order for the Auber water temp gauge bundle. Shipping from Georgia, so it'll be here in 2 days. Parts-wise, it's nice for an amerifat to have one over on the other anglos once in a while ;)
Where did you end up putting the water temp sensor? It looks like the coolant nozzle on the head has a half-drilled, untapped casting 'guide' that just needs a little bushing threaded in. Is that where yours is?
I read that dudes will drill and tap the pre-turbo EGT probe with the manifold on the head, while the truck is running. That sounded a little sketch to me, so I'm just gonna wait and do that job if/when the head ever has to come off. As much as I like working on my vehicles, I rather not grenade the turbo.
Where did you fit your transmission cooler? Did you have a temperature reading before and after that install? How many degrees did it come down? Does it have it's own little electric fan? I might consider throwing on a cooler if it makes a significant difference.
I also got the EGR valve blanked off and removed both of the butterfly plates in the throttle body a couple days ago. I can tell the truck runs healthier without the intake constriction. Was able to clean out a little soot buidup in the intake manifold. Glad I got to it while the truck is still relatively low in mileage.
Interesting about the exhaust. I had always been under the impression turbocharged vehicles did not need backpressure post-turbo, as the turbo itself provides for that. The same reason why turbocharged rally cars dump their exhaust straight out behind the front wheel, because they simply don't need the constriction and/or to reduce the heat.
With your sleeping platform, how are you sleeping in there while fully loaded down on a trip? I could never imagine having the room for the gf and I to be able to sleep in the back with all our gear. Do you relocate gear outside the truck? Is it a security measure? Being able to be locked inside with your stuff while in a rough part of the world?

surf_baka
 

surf_baka

New member
Here's a couple more. Goodyear blimp, alpine loop camping, and stuck near Grand Junction, CO.
 

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pyemaster

Member
Hi mate, that looks clean!

Yeah got the temp sensor in that casting guide IIRC, and the oil cooler was originally lower down towards one side but after the air con rad went we got it further up. Now it sits in front of the rad and got the fan for the air con rad wired up to a switch on the dash to throw some extra air through it. I got the oil cooler fitted before the digital temp gauge so hard to say what it came down by, but on long hills the stock gauge was happier that's for sure. Being that I don't see that move over halfway until I'm at 100 degrees meant it must have been well over that a few times for me to see the gauge move.

Yeah I had a fair bit of soot build up in my intake manifold too which got cleared out at the time, think I was on 110k miles at that point.

I think the main constriction out of the turbo is the size of the outlet, but I may be wrong. I'll speak with a buddy of mine who knows a lot about this and report back. I'll try and get round to getting some pics taken of my interior. Making use of every time nook and cranny is the answer, let nothing go to waste! I do have a roof box for spare parts and fluids, just a military storage case. It also holds wetsuits on surf trips. On the rack I keep chairs, bodyboards, tables, etc. Light bulky stuff.

Best
Owen
 

surf_baka

New member
Owen,

Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it.
I re-oiled my viscous fan clutch. It took some experimentation, but I think I got it freewheeling and engaging when it's supposed to be. Took 2 oz./59mL of 10,000 CST silicone oil. I removed the stock thermostat, dismantled/disabled it (only a mere ring with the seal now) and stuck it back in the original thermostat housing while adding a Jeg's in-line thermostat housing up top in the upper radiator line, where a thermostat oughta be. Placed a 170F/76C thermostat in the new housing. I also installed my Auber water temp gauge with the probe in the head coolant outlet bung that we talked about earlier.
The new Auber gauge levels out at about 183F/84C on flat land @ 60mph/100kph and 175F/79C @ idle. Ambient air temperature was 82F/28C. A/C does not appear to affect the water temp.
Reading the other forums, it's said that 190F/88C is about ideal for the 1KZ.
For comparison, about what temperature readings are you getting on your surf at highway speeds? What about at idle?
What temperature thermostat are you running? Is it in the stock location?
I think I'm also going to go ahead with installing the EGT probe with the manifold still on the truck. From doing more research, drilling and tapping the cast iron should not harm the turbo, as long as it's done carefully and correctly. Got another Auber gauge + probe arriving soon for that.

surf_baka
 

pyemaster

Member
That's awesome, congrats! Good to get closer eyes on the coolant for sure. Yeah 88C is the ideal temp for the KZ. I've a 71C thermostat in the original position, which is working fine for me, so haven't gone up top as yet. My idle temp is around 73C, and cruising flat at 60mph around 85C depending on load. Bearing in mind I've a larger frontal area to push through with the 35"x12.5"s and roof rack/lights. My winch and spotties will also block a bit of flow through the rad, but not too much - the front bar work does allow a good amount of air through still.

I was thinking of going for the EGT sensor with the mani off, so let me know how you go!

Best
Owen
 

surf_baka

New member
Well, it must be a good sign if we're so close in temp readings and slightly under the nominal value. I have a weld-together front bumper not terribly different than yours ready for fabrication, and will be jumping up to 33"s afterward. We'll see how those affect the temp readings.
The EGT probe is next to go in, so I can report back on that soon.
Thanks

surf_baka
 

surf_baka

New member
Happy to report that I slammed the EGT probe in without any issue. Was about a day of messing around between pulling the intake lines off, heatshield removal, putting the intake lines back on, drilling and tapping, then re-install of everything + gauge install.
I utilized a strong magnet wire tied very close to the probe location and ran the truck while drilling. Was able to do it with my smaller battery drill motor and a 21/64" drill bit for a 1/8" NPT tap. I pre-drilled the hole about halfway just so I would be doing less drilling with the truck running. Shut the truck off, and allowed it to cool all the way down before tapping. Ran the tap as dry as I could with only a little WD40 every now and then, to keep the lube from capturing the debris and running in down inside the manifold. Often backed the tap all the way out and vacuumed any debris that was there. I'm speculating only a small amount of debris actually got down inside the manifold.
The truck runs fine and had no weird noises or anything. The exhaust side of the turbo doesn't have bearings present, so any debris likely blew right out.
The truck idles as low as 143C/290F and levels out at about 400C/750F at highway speeds. I can shoot the EGT right up to 650C/1200F by stomping on it. I placed my alarm here at 1200F. I also found that the truck gains about 80F-100F of heatsoak after shutting down, so it's apparent that allowing the turbo to cool down before shutting down is important.
In all, I have both gauges side by side near the gear selector. Not super elegant (might improve their mounting a little bit, but that's on the backburner now), but it definitely performs its function well.
I really recommend the EGT gauge as the feedback is nearly instantaneous with the engine's current temp. I can easily cycle the EGT from 600F to 1200F and back while the water temperature only fluctuates about a degree.
I'll include a few pictures of the install in the various stages.

surf_baka
 
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surf_baka

New member
I also removed and capped off the second row passenger heater matrix lines as it wasn't needed.
Jegs inline thermostat and water temp probe included as bonus.
 

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pyemaster

Member
Great job dude! And very interesting on the temps you've reported back already. I try to never go over 2,250rpm if I can help it for that reason, and I have seen the heat soak issue on the coolant temp show up before when switched off, so interesting that's also been confirmed. It would be cool to hear what your EGTs reach when fully loaded climbing a long hill in hot weather!

Got to get around to getting mine fitted really. Looks like a decent spot for the gauges too - I've currently got a double gauge bolted to the side of the CB radio.

Best
Owen
 

pyemaster

Member
Spoken to my buddy who's an expert mech on Hilux Surfs, and he says the real issue out of the turbo is how restrictive and squashed up the pipe is off the flange. He's suggested a 3" down pipe before stepping down into the 2.5" system, but he said it's more important to free up the flow into the down pipe, as that will make the biggest difference, versus the extra pipe diameter. The stock one is just really constricted. I've since spoken to a custom stainless exhaust maker who've agreed a 3" downpipe is perfect to get the expanded hot gases out, before stepping down, rather than running a 3" system from the turbo all the way back, as they cool so quickly anyway.

I've got mine booked in for the down pipe to be fabbed and fitted end of November, will report back.

Owen
 

CaptainT7m

New member
Happy to report that I slammed the EGT probe in without any issue. Was about a day of messing around between pulling the intake lines off, heatshield removal, putting the intake lines back on, drilling and tapping, then re-install of everything + gauge install.
I utilized a strong magnet wire tied very close to the probe location and ran the truck while drilling. Was able to do it with my smaller battery drill motor and a 21/64" drill bit for a 1/8" NPT tap. I pre-drilled the hole about halfway just so I would be doing less drilling with the truck running. Shut the truck off, and allowed it to cool all the way down before tapping. Ran the tap as dry as I could with only a little WD40 every now and then, to keep the lube from capturing the debris and running in down inside the manifold. Often backed the tap all the way out and vacuumed any debris that was there. I'm speculating only a small amount of debris actually got down inside the manifold.
The truck runs fine and had no weird noises or anything. The exhaust side of the turbo doesn't have bearings present, so any debris likely blew right out.
The truck idles as low as 143C/290F and levels out at about 400C/750F at highway speeds. I can shoot the EGT right up to 650C/1200F by stomping on it. I placed my alarm here at 1200F. I also found that the truck gains about 80F-100F of heatsoak after shutting down, so it's apparent that allowing the turbo to cool down before shutting down is important.
In all, I have both gauges side by side near the gear selector. Not super elegant (might improve their mounting a little bit, but that's on the backburner now), but it definitely performs its function well.
I really recommend the EGT gauge as the feedback is nearly instantaneous with the engine's current temp. I can easily cycle the EGT from 600F to 1200F and back while the water temperature only fluctuates about a degree.
I'll include a few pictures of the install in the various stages.

surf_baka


any update on how things are going? Looking into doing similar mods on my truck.
 

surf_baka

New member
any update on how things are going? Looking into doing similar mods on my truck.
Yes everything is going good here with the surf nowadays.
We had a busy summer overlanding and got a few trips in the rocky mountains. Since I last posted here, I have done a good bit of mods on the Surf.
One being a 2" OME suspension lift and the fitting of 33" yokohama A/Ts. The larger diameter tires changed the gearing some and makes the transmission work harder. Out in the mountains of Colorado, on the long freeway mountain climbs, I got a few 'A/T Oil Temp' lights. Because of the higher gearing of the 33" tires, I was significantly raising the A/T oil temp. No damage or anything occurred as I'd pull over immediately and let the truck idle and bring down the transmission oil temp. The fluid didn't change color or anything like that.
However, I was slated to be out in CO for another week, (to make for a total of 3 weeks), but chose to turn back home out of caution. I never experienced any problems with the transmission temp while actually offroading.
When I got home, I fitted a Hayden transmission cooler in front of the radiator and added another temperature gauge in the plumbing just off the transmission side of the cooler line outlet. I now have three temp gauges, EGT, water, and A/T oil.
Getting those three gauges in has drastically improved my experience with the surf, and am no longer 'in the dark' about what the drivetrain is doing. On my next trip to the mountains of Montana, I had the added transmission cooling capacity and the ability to monitor it on the long freeway climbs.
Don't get me wrong, I often have to take those hills real nice and slow in the right lane, but now I know i'll never burn up the transmission. I realize the use of 4.10 gearing would help greatly with the 33" tires, but I can manage without.
If you're planning on doing the cooling modifications, I would definitely recommend adding the transmission cooler, as it wasn't too bad except for fitting the cooler in place. Some trimming of the hood latch bracket had to be done, but it worked.
The attached pictures are one of the cooler fitted ,at 12k some feet in CO, and my HF radio I use for Winlink for communicating back home when no other services are available.
Someday I will have to create my own thread and document everything. I'm not a good forum user in that regard.
 

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CaptainT7m

New member
Awesome man glad to hear the cooler is helping the at temps! Everything working well with the thermostat mounted in the upper hose? I'm curious if you found a way to block the factory bypass? you can hit me up on insta if you want! I'm doing a frame off resto with a 1kzte swap in an 87 xtracab w/ 3link. It's sargeyoda on insta. https://www.instagram.com/sargeyoda/
 

surf_baka

New member
Awesome man glad to hear the cooler is helping the at temps! Everything working well with the thermostat mounted in the upper hose? I'm curious if you found a way to block the factory bypass? you can hit me up on insta if you want! I'm doing a frame off resto with a 1kzte swap in an 87 xtracab w/ 3link. It's sargeyoda on insta. https://www.instagram.com/sargeyoda/
I'll check out your instagram.
As far as I know, there is no 'factory bypass' regarding coolant on my engine. I know there are different versions of the 1KZ, and we may have different ones. The coolant plumbing is simple on mine, one hose out from the top of the engine to the top of the radiator and one from bottom of radiator to engine, where the factory thermostat housing is. The only other plumbing I can think of is the front heater coil and rear heater coil (the rear I've disconnected and capped off).
The thermostat relocation works fine. My specific housing is just barely short enough to fit between the engine and radiator. It can come out, but just takes some finesse. It's also nice being able to use any generic thermostat that will fit that housing.
Also, if you have some pictures you want me to look at, post them on here as I don't have instagram and can't view the fullsize images on your page there.
 

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