1994 International 4700 Conversion Begins

scooter421

Adventurer
Sounds like a plan OZ, I am going to get in touch with International and see how much a replacement is. I am going ro remove the tires when I get home and look at the brake pads. I figure if it's a caliper problem I might see uneven wear on the pad. If it's even wear it might be a clog before the caliper.
 
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scooter421

Adventurer
I forgot to mention the gears. I went with a 4.44 set. I could have went to I believe a 4.76 but the 4.44 brought my speedo back in line. Only 3 mph off at 60 mph. I would have gained more climbing power with the 4.76 but would lose top end and the 4.44 puts me pretty close to a 70 mph max with the current governor setting.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
Hi Bob, I hear ya. I tried to get that steel brake line off once before but ended up rounding off the nut. So, now I am stuck with using channel locks but that might just truly finish it off. I am trying to avoid destruction of the line but it may not be an option.

We have new parts at work which are bad straight out of the dang box!
 

scooter421

Adventurer
Very interesting, I was wondering what a good way to seperate the sytems would be. This may take a minute to answer but how'd you do it?
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
I hope you make sure you are sitting down when International gives you a price on the brakeline. Freightliner wanted just under $200 for one for mine (less than 4' with 3 bends) and it would be a special order with a 4 week delivery. The parts guy said he had never ordered a genuine brake line!! 25' of pipe and a bunch of fittings is about $25 Amazon Prime LINK. Couple that with a flaring tool (borrow from me or rent/borrow from the local parts store) and away you go. At less than $1 a foot you can make a few practice runs. The local parts store will also have various lengths of pre-made lines you can bend to suit if you are lucky enough on the length. LINK

If you are contemplating replacing all the steel lines yourself I would suggest paying the extra money and getting a Snapon flaring tool. It is one of the few things that I thing is worth the Snapon name premium.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
Holy crap! I would not have expected that kind of a price. I will find out when they call me back. If I can get the old one off without detroying it and it's clear I may be okay. Gotta check the new flex line as Bob suggests too. Then again, I have to get the steel one back on with no leaks! Who knows, it might work when I'm done.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Old brake lines tent to corrode to the flare nut, and the odds are that you will destroy lines when you try to take them apart. A set of flare nut wrenches helps, but replacement is the only long term answer (new lines should outlast all of us...). And as Oz said - new, factory (OEM) brake lines will cost about as much as you paid for the truck. The answer is to make up new lines from a roll or two of brake tubing and a handful of fittings.

Regarding the split system - you should already have a split system since your truck was built to be an ambulance.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
Have not heard from International on the price for the brake line but it certainly sounds like I am making my own! My brake pressure is supplied from the power steering pump only. The Hydroboost and power steering gearbox are in series.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
I will have to see if I can come up with something similar. I have an unused pully on the top end somewhere. A nice bit of insurance, thanks for the info!
 

rlrenz

Explorer
My Freightliner uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump for the brake booster, but it also has a built-in electric pump that kicks in if there isn't any steering pump pressure. Before you start adding hydraulic gear to your IH, check and see if it doesn't have the same thing - it may be standard on medium trucks / ambulances. It's generally part of the brake booster assembly.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
My Freightliner uses hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump for the brake booster, but it also has a built-in electric pump that kicks in if there isn't any steering pump pressure. Before you start adding hydraulic gear to your IH, check and see if it doesn't have the same thing - it may be standard on medium trucks / ambulances. It's generally part of the brake booster assembly.

Oh yes, I do have the electric booster pump. I was thinking about adding a second pump similar to the power steering pump so as not to rely on the power steering pump for both steering and brakes. Again, visions of grandeur or....overkill.
 

scooter421

Adventurer
Okay, pulled the tires off.

The brake pads on the right rear are about half gone after roughly 700 miles! The wear on the pads is a bit odd and I believe indicates a bad caliper, possibly the casting? The pads are worn front to back unevenly, about .060 front to back and also inside the radius of the rotor to the outside about .100 thousandths. I'm wondering whether or not the casting is square between the piston bores and the outer pad support?
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Okay, pulled the tires off.

The brake pads on the right rear are about half gone after roughly 700 miles! The wear on the pads is a bit odd and I believe indicates a bad caliper, possibly the casting? The pads are worn front to back unevenly, about .060 front to back and also inside the radius of the rotor to the outside about .100 thousandths. I'm wondering whether or not the casting is square between the piston bores and the outer pad support?

You might also check your rotor with an indicator to see if it's wobbling.
 

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