1995 4RUNNER Project Page

4AFK

Observer
NorCalBorn said:
*Get one of these in yet? :jumping:
DOM Chromoly.

Not yet, but this goes on order this weekend I believe.

Early_IFS_Brace_001.jpg


Still trying to decide if I want to weld it in or bolt it in.
 

4AFK

Observer
toyrunner95 said:
This setup worked really well. i had a wilderness roof rack that worked very well too.

Think I'm going to be building a roof top camper this winter if and when I finish up with the shop. Right now I use the back of the rig with the seats folded down for camping out (or a tent) and I'd like to upgrade. Have some plans mostly still in my head for it, but I think I can build a pretty awesome pop-top setup with storage which should do nicely.
 

4AFK

Observer
Roof Top Camper

Forgot to mention that the biggest reason I have for the DIY solution is that I really want the ability to load gear, in particular my glider, on top of the rig. Right now my glider packs down to about 90 cubic liters and I'm usually the only one sleeping in the rig. This means I could locate the glider next to the camper if I design it all well.:1888fbbd:

Kinda strange I know, but my rig is a means to get me to trail heads that I can soar from.
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
4AFK said:
Support is 'ok' (my Dad's 1984 Cherokee has a tighter suspension in my experience) but I gather this is a problem with the G2s in particular.

I'm going to be taking steps to improve suspension in the near future.

Haha, I actually meant how is the hi lift mount supported underneath. Is it just drilled through the hood with a nut and washer underneath or is there a plate under there?
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
4AFK said:
Not yet, but this goes on order this weekend I believe.

Early_IFS_Brace_001.jpg


Still trying to decide if I want to weld it in or bolt it in.


Bolt it in, the front is also bolted in. Just use grade 8 bolts and it will be fine (especially if it is made to order and you measured good). Believe me you will be glad when it comes time to pull your front diff. Unlike the small rounded ones, this one will not allow much wiggle room to get your diff out. I'm in the process of pulling mine now and I'm going to try to get it out without unbolting either brace, but I'm positive I'll have to remove one of them.
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
Yeah round is fine, I didn't mean intend it to seem that it wasn't. He just said he ordered the sonoran steel one and I've had experience with it.

It is somewhat overkill, but it saved my diff multiple times on Coyote Lake trail where a round bar wouldn't have saved it (not that it wouldn't be strong enough to land on, just not wide enough)
 

slosurfer

Adventurer
I just removed my front diff and if the sonoran steel brace had been welded in, it would have been much harder to do. It would be very hard to get to the passenger rear bolt that holds the diff in. Also, if you weld it in and are able to get to that bolt, then you will have to unbolt and remove the front crossbar anyways to remove the diff.

FWIW, mine unbolted really easy and with a few taps of the sledge it slide right off.
 

4AFK

Observer
Ye-Ha! We have a funky ground

New intermittent problem with my 1995 4Runner. This thing will never let me relax I'm sure.

So FunTruck now has a short which I believe to be isolated to the ground. It only seems to happen at odd moments and only when do something stupid like hit the breaks or signal a turn. No fuses blown and usually the electrical comes back online after a voltage drop and brief downtime.

So far I have replaced the battery, posts, post clamps and added a second ground to the same location on the frame. Still no consistent luck, and suggestion on a better way to trouble shoot this one are welcome.
 

4AFK

Observer
Totally Fixed

A loose wire on the underside of the alternator. I have that little bugger fixed now and boy has it been super nice having my rig back on the road.:victory:
 

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