1996 K1500 Build
- Thread starter djp73
- Start date
djp73
Active member
With the pattern where we wanted it it was time to take it all back apart, swap out the set up bearings for the real bearings and put it all back together.
Inner pinion bearing into the oven.
Nice smooth install with it up to temp.
Adapters and rotors on.
Almost there.
Beefy BTF diff cover.
Getting measurements to see how much to machine off the spacers, lots of variance on the 14 bolts leads to having to make adjustments once you assemble.
Once I get the adapters machined we should be good to reassemble and install, after we get past the record low temps we're expecting this weekend.
Inner pinion bearing into the oven.
Nice smooth install with it up to temp.
Adapters and rotors on.
Almost there.
Beefy BTF diff cover.
Getting measurements to see how much to machine off the spacers, lots of variance on the 14 bolts leads to having to make adjustments once you assemble.
Once I get the adapters machined we should be good to reassemble and install, after we get past the record low temps we're expecting this weekend.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
In the process of building a semi float 14 now. Any tips on the regear?
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djp73
Active member
Far from an expert on gear setups but I started with the original pinion shim (actually used new ones as close to the old ones as I could).
I used set up bearings, strongly suggest.
Put the pinion together without the spacer.
Put the carrier in with the old shim (again, I used old ones as close as I could). I like the super shims.
If your backlash is good then run a pattern and adjust pinion depth based on that.
Recheck the pattern with the new pinion depth and adjust again as needed.
Once the pattern and measurements jive get your real bearings on and sneak up on the crush sleeve very slowly, I over crushed the first one.
Other than that I'd say make sure you have good tools and take lots of notes as you go.
I used set up bearings, strongly suggest.
Put the pinion together without the spacer.
Put the carrier in with the old shim (again, I used old ones as close as I could). I like the super shims.
If your backlash is good then run a pattern and adjust pinion depth based on that.
Recheck the pattern with the new pinion depth and adjust again as needed.
Once the pattern and measurements jive get your real bearings on and sneak up on the crush sleeve very slowly, I over crushed the first one.
Other than that I'd say make sure you have good tools and take lots of notes as you go.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
I used my oem 10 bolt disc brakes the hardest part was cutting the baking plate mount off the 10 bolt to weld on the 9.5
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djp73
Active member
Lots of snow removal and sick family members this past week but I did manage to get a few things done.
Replaced the steering shaft with the new Cunningham Machine unit.
Got the front toe in closer, hopefully close enough to drive to the shop for the alignment.
Moved the rear axle back 1 inch on the Zero Rates, this helped center the wheels in the wheel wells and also helped get the driveshaft to transfer case engagement back closer to where it should be.
Replaced the steering shaft with the new Cunningham Machine unit.
Got the front toe in closer, hopefully close enough to drive to the shop for the alignment.
Moved the rear axle back 1 inch on the Zero Rates, this helped center the wheels in the wheel wells and also helped get the driveshaft to transfer case engagement back closer to where it should be.
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