Chevrolado
Cruisin'
Looks good bud! 
1999 GMC Yukon Build
- Thread starter noJeepshere
- Start date
mccustomize
Explorer
Why would you need new U bolts? The strength in a fine thread fastener stops increasing after I think 7 or 9 threads are engaged. Any more than that does nothing for the load holding of the fastener. Those look fine. On the plus side flush with the nuts keeps the exposed threads from getting corrosion/dirt/etc..
noJeepshere
Adventurer
I've always thought there should always be at least an inch of thread above the nut on a u-bolt.
cent frum a smaert fone
cent frum a smaert fone
mccustomize
Explorer
Here's a little reading on the topic, I would see no purpose what threads sticking out of a nut serve, other than sometimes starting a part that is clamp fit. I've always been taught you should use the proper length bolt and not have threads sticking out.
onemanarmy
Explorer
Absolutely no need to have lots of bolt sticking out past the nut, but you do want to make sure you have full engagement of the nut, and 1, maybe 2, of those nuts are pushing it.
Also, not a good idea to reuse U bolts anyways, they are torqued, stretched, and can get corroded very easily. But plenty of people do it.
Rig looks good. Love the wheel choice, and that you didn't go overboard with tire size.
Also, not a good idea to reuse U bolts anyways, they are torqued, stretched, and can get corroded very easily. But plenty of people do it.
Rig looks good. Love the wheel choice, and that you didn't go overboard with tire size.
rabbiporkchop
Adventurer
I had death wobble at six degrees Caster and reduced it to 4 degrees and that fixed the problem. At the time I had death wobble the upper ball joint was wearing out the hole in the driver side knuckle and I had to replace the whole driver side Knuckle. I currently use no track bar and have no sway bar up front and I do not have the death wobble problem anymore.
chilliwak
Expedition Leader
Ok good to know Rabbi..:Wow1:
noJeepshere
Adventurer
Good to know, as I have quite a bit of camber, but not sure of caster.
Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
justcuz
Explorer
I would add a 24" lower leaf to the rear springs (should fit) and take the springs to a rebuilder and have then re-arched 2" over stock. They will settle 3/4 to 1" and give you what you want. 4 to 6 degrees positive caster and play with the toe in starting at factory specs and increasing by 1/16" till you get it right. Obviously you don't want to feather the outside edge of the tires. Normal driving and braking will want to induce toe out, wider tires increase the forces too, especially if your off set is positive. Play with it a bit, you will be able to dial it in without the band aids of a track bar or steering stabilizer. Sway bars are articulation killers, you should not need them if properly sprung.
I really like how your Yukon turned out, it looks great and is an inspiration for me to SAS one of my IFS Suburbans.
I really like how your Yukon turned out, it looks great and is an inspiration for me to SAS one of my IFS Suburbans.
ExplorerTom
Explorer
Here's a little reading on the topic, I would see no purpose what threads sticking out of a nut serve, other than sometimes starting a part that is clamp fit. I've always been taught you should use the proper length bolt and not have threads sticking out.
In the aerospace industry, we follow the last line in that picture: 2 threads sticking out past the end of the nut.
noJeepshere
Adventurer
Got the transfer case shifter ready for the case swap tomorrow.
sent from a slablet
sent from a slablet
noJeepshere
Adventurer
Case is in, driveshafts are in, it's 4wd again! And it only took 5 months to do it all. Pics to come.
sent from a slablet
sent from a slablet
chilliwak
Expedition Leader
Well that makes me extremely happy sir. Lets see some wheeling pics!:ylsmoke::jumping::truck::26_7_2::clapsmile
noJeepshere
Adventurer
Got the shafts installed, and took it for a little drive to check out the 4wd.
The 241 is a bit shorter than the 246
Rear cv
Front is a basic 2 u-joint shaft, probably going to do a cv style in the future, it vibrates pretty badly above 30mph
Found a rock to play on:
Didn't even come close to the approach angle
sent from a slablet
The 241 is a bit shorter than the 246
Rear cv
Front is a basic 2 u-joint shaft, probably going to do a cv style in the future, it vibrates pretty badly above 30mph
Found a rock to play on:
Didn't even come close to the approach angle
sent from a slablet
