2000, 100 series build
- Thread starter Benc
- Start date
Thanks, guys, there is just something about the landcruiser that makes you feel like you have to put all the best stuff on it. So far this is the first rig I have taken the time to make everything perfect, even down to wiring lol. It just to nice of a vehicle to skimp on. I'm planing on keeping this one for a while so I want to make sure everything is done right.
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Pulled the timing cover last night to take a look at the belt. Looks like it had never been changed ! @ 147,000 miles it is way over due! So I went to a local import parts store and got all factory toyota parts. Got the belt, water pump, tensioner and all bearings for $233. Toyota wanted almost $700 for the exact same parts. It only took about 4 hours to do, ended up changing the spark plugs and doing the sea foam treatment, also greased the driveline slip yolks. She runs and drives smooth now!
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Thanks, when your getting paid to do it there is no rush lol. I just wanted to get it over with ASAP .Yeah I was looking at it and didn't think the radiator needed to be removed but at that point it was only 4 more bolts to get if out. It also allowed me to fit my impact on the crankshaft bolt.
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Thanks guys, next on the list is to finish the rear swing outs and paint everything. I bought a automotive paint sprayer so I'm going to paint all the armor with a single stage automotive paint. With all of California's new environmental laws I can not seam to find any good rattle can plus it is such a pain to keep looking good. I kept going back and forth between powder coat and auto paint and decided on auto paint for ease of repairs. I hit my bumpers quite often so I don't think the powder coat would hold up and you can't touch it up. With the auto paint, once it get to beat up I can sand and repaint it myself. Once the 100 is done I will hopefully be starting my expo trailer build!
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fireball
Explorer
FWIW my bumper and slider are powder coated a satin black and they touch up nicely with rattle can. They do get dinged up a bit, but since I'm in the salty NE wanted as much protection as possible. It isn't a 100% perfect match, but if you are laying on the ground looking at the underside of my bumper and sliders and critiquing the color match I don't want to be your friend anyway 
Rezarf <><
Explorer
Looks great man, are you using a plasma for your plate cutting? Do you mock up with cardboard or a digital sketching program to flatten your bends. Curious to your process on your plate work in general...
Looking forward to a trailer build. I'm fond of trailers
Looking forward to a trailer build. I'm fond of trailers
[QUOTE=Rezarf
Thanks, yes I use a hypertherm power max 45 hand held plasma. I do mock it up with cardboard and use the templates to cut out the metal. As for the bending, I have a 20" press brake and for anything wider I cut 1/2 way through with a cut off wheel in the back side of the bend and then bend by hand. Then the only welding needed is on the back side. This also cuts down on most of the finish grinding and sanding. I just recently upgraded from a miller spectrum 375 plasma to the hypertherm and this machine is awesome! The consumable are cheep and last way longer and the cut quality is amazing! It can cut through 3/16 faster then I can pull and the cut is almost perfectly smooth
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Thanks, yes I use a hypertherm power max 45 hand held plasma. I do mock it up with cardboard and use the templates to cut out the metal. As for the bending, I have a 20" press brake and for anything wider I cut 1/2 way through with a cut off wheel in the back side of the bend and then bend by hand. Then the only welding needed is on the back side. This also cuts down on most of the finish grinding and sanding. I just recently upgraded from a miller spectrum 375 plasma to the hypertherm and this machine is awesome! The consumable are cheep and last way longer and the cut quality is amazing! It can cut through 3/16 faster then I can pull and the cut is almost perfectly smooth
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