2000 Suburban K1500 budget low lift with 37"s

Lykos

Super Trucker
Here's my $0.02 on hood louvers. I like these from Napier Precision.


Clicky clicky

Reason being they limit the amount of water that can enter the engine bay while still effectively moving heat off the engine.
Granted, our 5.3s are tough and a little water doesn't hurt anything but if I can mitigate the potential for corrosion Ill do it. Given that I idle my rig a LOT with the AC running these will be going on my hood as soon as time and budget allow.



PS: they'll look pretty ************ on my white hood so there's that too. ?
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Vents, the other side!

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When I installed I removed the insulation heat shield inside the hood to cut the sheetmetal, however I reinstalled it and cut out holes for the vents. Most people leave it out and after several months of driving the paint on the hood starts to peel from the excessive temperature and looks terrible. Leaving the holes in the insulation destroys the insulation to the point where it falls out on its own.

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This is the hole I cut out for the vents and after one commute to work and back the 1/4" thick insulation increased to 1.5" thick. At this rate the insulation would get shredded in a week. I needed to come up with a solution, fast.

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Trip to Walmart and $0.98 per side later I got the insulation back under control and protected fro the wind.

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Once the paper clips were placed in their desired locations, the insulation shrunk back to 1/4" thickness and the edges were protected from the wind. I removed the outer silver tabs.

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Inner and outer tabs removed and the insulation is protected. Only time will tell how long this will last, but for $0.98 per side this is pretty genius. Clean simple and cheap look that can not be done better for less. There are options out there and simple solutions as long as you are willing to look and think slightly outside the box.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

yoggie

Member
Very cool!

I apologize for the dumb question, but what is the reasoning behind keeping the under hood insulation?

My original hood for my Jeep was damaged by a hail storm about 7 years ago. My replacement hood (aftermarket with vents) did not come with insulation and I cant say I have missed it.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Hey Crazy!

Good to see you getting out there! Told you about the 10 bolt:)

What happened to your coilover exactly!?

Edit- Just read back. Yep looks like coil bind! Time for more lift so you can fit a longer coil:)

BurbOne,

It's fun getting out and running the Sub hard waiting to see what will break next, and surprisingly it has held up very well.

Yeah I know the 10-bolt is not the strongest rear end out there, but for what it is 250k miles later I am extremely happy with how it held up. I snapped factory axles and replaced them with alloy axles, G80 finally went and was replaced with a Detroit locker. This setup should last for a while if I break it again I am going to a 12bolt.

8" of travel and 1,200lb springs was not enough for the Sub, I am in the process of putting together a DS701 setup with 750lb coils and custom made coilover towers to increase my travel to around 12" and hopefully decrease the wear and tear on the truck.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 
Last edited:

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Here's my $0.02 on hood louvers. I like these from Napier Precision.


Clicky clicky

Reason being they limit the amount of water that can enter the engine bay while still effectively moving heat off the engine.
Granted, our 5.3s are tough and a little water doesn't hurt anything but if I can mitigate the potential for corrosion Ill do it. Given that I idle my rig a LOT with the AC running these will be going on my hood as soon as time and budget allow.



PS: they'll look pretty ************ on my white hood so there's that too. ?

Lykos,

I like those, a little pricey for my liking though, going to keep an eye on the on eBay. They look like they move much more air than mine.

Thank you for a great suggestion.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Battery relocation!

PESS Ctrl F5 to reload the page if the images do not load the first time around.

Suburban placed the battery in a great spot for a soccer mom highway cruiser however for a true overlander the factory location is less than ideal. After approximately 3-4,000 miles off road on trails ranging from washboard ridden dirt to 4x4 low crawling the poor location choice has manifested many weaknesses. First of all the 40lb weight bouncing up and down managed to bend the fender, break fender to core support connection, snap the battery tray itself and break the support arm which holds the ECU. Not to mention that the bouncing of the battery off road forced me to add a 6" extension to every positive and negative wire running to and from the battery.

Enough with the negatives, GM reserved another super secret spot for an auxiliary battery under the hood which goes unutilized in most GMT800 trucks. Rear passenger area under the hood. What a great location to move the battery to. I went $1 over my initial $50 budget, however I got lucky with a used battery tray and paid $15 more for heavy duty solid brass butt connectors.

Auxiliary battery tray $17 shipped on eBay.
10ft of automotive grade 2 gauge wire $15 also on eBay.
Two 2-8ga butt connectors $19 also on eBay.

Total $51

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This is what I started with, battery is lob-sided and sitting 2" lower than it supposed to.

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Auxiliary battery tray went in like a charm with the existing bolts.

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Yes I did not remove the curved bar that runs between the firewall and front fender. It's a tight squeeze to reach all the bolts but I know that its possible to install without removing any parts.

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This is the same battery I ran on the other side, it fit, barely. I was close to getting frustrated and almost removed the coolant overflow to get it in. This is the largest battery that will fit into this location.

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Sorry for the crappy picture but now I finally have room for a windshield washer reservoir which I got rid of when I made room for 37s and never realy found a spot for it that I liked.

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Battery is in, secured and hooked up. It would be a good idea to cover at least the positive terminal but I'll get to that later.

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Close up of the terminals. I had these terminals for several years, got them with some boat I bought and never used. I did not include them in the price of the relocation because i could have used the factory connectors. I left enough length in the wires to be able to reach either terminal with either cable in case I get a different battery (it's on sale).

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Ran the wires to the driver's side. I kept both positive and negative black to draw less attention to anything under the hood. Positive cable was connected to the positive junction box which connects to the alternator, starter and fuse box. In total 4ft of both positive and negative cable were added to the electrical system. The truck started up just fine and ran well during the initial test drive with AC, radio, light bar and CB on.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

Explorerinil

Observer
I love this build, pretty cool that you focus everything around taking your family out and enjoying the outdoors, definitely an inspiration.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Very cool!

I apologize for the dumb question, but what is the reasoning behind keeping the under hood insulation?

My original hood for my Jeep was damaged by a hail storm about 7 years ago. My replacement hood (aftermarket with vents) did not come with insulation and I cant say I have missed it.

yoggie,

Not a dumb question at all. The insulation keeps the temperature of the hood itself significantly lower enough that the paint on the hood will not peel and make the Sub look like a mall crawler. I also place a lot of things on the hood and do not want my skin to burn nor anything plastic to melt. In cooler climates this may not be such a bid deal however in the southwest it is. My last Death Valley trip outside temperature in the shade was 114F, blowing hot radiator air that is around 200F combined with the heat radiating from the engine block and the sun baking from above, the temperature of the sheet metal gets well over 250F. Insulation keeps that 250F below 350F.

Eventually I will be getting a new hood, once I replace the fenders but even then I will be keeping the insulation.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

yoggie

Member
yoggie,

Not a dumb question at all. The insulation keeps the temperature of the hood itself significantly lower enough that the paint on the hood will not peel and make the Sub look like a mall crawler. I also place a lot of things on the hood and do not want my skin to burn nor anything plastic to melt. In cooler climates this may not be such a bid deal however in the southwest it is. My last Death Valley trip outside temperature in the shade was 114F, blowing hot radiator air that is around 200F combined with the heat radiating from the engine block and the sun baking from above, the temperature of the sheet metal gets well over 250F. Insulation keeps that 250F below 350F.

Eventually I will be getting a new hood, once I replace the fenders but even then I will be keeping the insulation.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!

That was a great explanation, thank you!
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
You never cease to amaze me Mr Crazy! Nice vents...:cool:

Chilli,

Thanx, it's fun coming up with cheap practical solutions for my little Frankenstein of a Sub. This weather is getting too toasty in Vegas so I'm taking a couple week break from adventuring to catch up with some long overdue repairs such as wheel hubs and ball joints. Can't wait to see how long the cheapest parts available on eBay actually last.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Ok cool. Just make sure you post clearly written updates supported with a lot of pics, as usual. Cheers, chilli..:cool:
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
That’s my focus with the burb too. They are great rigs, and drei’s is really cool.

I love this build, pretty cool that you focus everything around taking your family out and enjoying the outdoors, definitely an inspiration.

Thanx guys,

That's the idea behind this build and thread in general. ExPo is also the perfect platform for showcasing both the truck and the adventures. I have many more trips planned however there are a couple maintenance repairs that have to be done that I have been putting off for over a year.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
6 months with AFP coil overs. (torsion bars are in temporarily)

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I installed the AFP coilover kit approximately six months ago. The actual write-up was not until several months after so I could properly torture test them. I am extremely happy with the setup. If I knew about the conversion I would have done it five years ago when I first bought the truck and would absolutely recommend the conversion to every Suburban, Tahoe and Avalanche owner out there. However it's not the best setup for blasting through the desert pretending to be a trophy truck.

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Front Passenger side. Lower bracket took some abuse and I managed to bend it, pictures to come once I clean up all the parts.

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This is how it sits with stock upper control arms. There was minimal trimming of the bump stop jouncer for everything to fit and work flawlessly.

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Close up of the top mount. I actually had to attach the top eyelet to the bracket, bolt the bracket to the frame and then screw the shock and coil into it because the transverse bolts can not be inserted or removed once the top bracket is bolted to the frame.

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This is how it had to be bolted up. Apparently I beat the crap out of the truck and the setup, I am glad AFP uses 1/4" steel, brackets would not hold up to my abuse with 3/16" steel as long.

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$31.28 shipped for a pair of made in China shocks that were advertised to be oil but turned out to be oil/gas just like my Bilstein 5100s in the rear, what a pleasant surprise. Way better quality and bushings than the Skyjacker Hydro piece of crap shocks I had before which got destroyed within 6 months of mostly street driving and all Skyjacker said was to buy another pair. Never again.

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This is what a torsion bar unloading tool looks like and makes short and quick work of replacing or installing torsion bar keys. FORD key are back in.

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If you look closely you will notice that I did not put the adjustment screw in. There is no need, if I put it in the truck will be sitting too high and the downward suspension travel would be decreased to make the ride quality that of a paint shaker. The screw will also stick out way too far, catch on rocks and just be in the way. No need for it if you are using FORD keys.

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Closer look at the drivers side bump stop from that time a few months ago when the QA1 shock broke.

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Upper control mount, left side of it got bent forward or inward so it's 1/2" away from the camber adjuster. I can not remove the UCA as the bracket sits and it will need to be cut, straightened, re-inforced and re-boxed in. Can't wait for the glorious day I undertake that project.

So I absolutely love AFT coil over set up, but I took it out and went back to the torsion bars, kinda weird. Well I want more wheel travel. I can not increase the droop or downward travel because that would cause damage to the CV joints and I do not want to do a differential drop kit, because I really like factory suspension geometry and do not want to decrease my minimum ground clearance. The only place I have left to go is up.

Next step is to cut and fix the drivers side bump stop. Assemble and mock up new longer travel coil-overs. Use cardboard to make a model of the top bracket that I can use to cut the steel and weld it together. No timeline yet but realistically several weeks to several months for a low budget mid travel setup.

Stay tuned for more shenanigans!
 

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