2001-2006 Mitsubishi Montero Gen 3 Strut Spacer Diagram

Offroadmuch

Explorer
More strut spacer info. Quoting from his Youtube writeup:
Published on Sep 8, 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcu9IIT4Mz0
Adding some extra lift for my gen3 Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero. For suspension I have OME springs which gave me about 2 inches of lift, but I am running 295/75/16 which are almost 34 inches tall. With the use of spacers I got about 3/4 inch of extra clearance. In the rear I used a front 10mm spacer for Land Cruiser 80 series, and in front I made 3 spacers per side 1/8 thick each. Using only 3 spacers there is enough thread for mounting the strut with existing hardware. Each spacer gives about 1/4 of lift, so they can be used to level the front end if needed. Since front spacers go above the strut top, they don't limit suspension travel, and we all know this platform does not have much travel in front. Angle for the axles don't look overly extreme with suspension fully extended so they should be fine, but only time will tell.
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
Installation Tips

Hey All,

My strut spacers are done. Any tips for the install?
Do I need spring compressors?

Any advice?

I will post any usefully pics or things I figure out.

Thanks
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
Not installed yet. I would like to drop in a set of Bilstien 4600's at the same time that I do the lift installation so I have been waiting for that and I was also busy with work so I have had very little time lately. I will post up pics and anything I learn aling the way. Thanks for your interest. I am wondering if my truck will be level or front-end-high... My spacers are 1.75" thick so that shiuld be about 3.5" in the front. I may end up putting in a 40mm spacer in the rear. As soon as I get time and decide about shocks I will get it all done.
 

claysnfeathers

New member
Not installed yet. I would like to drop in a set of Bilstien 4600's at the same time that I do the lift installation so I have been waiting for that and I was also busy with work so I have had very little time lately. I will post up pics and anything I learn aling the way. Thanks for your interest. I am wondering if my truck will be level or front-end-high... My spacers are 1.75" thick so that shiuld be about 3.5" in the front. I may end up putting in a 40mm spacer in the rear. As soon as I get time and decide about shocks I will get it all done.

cool! keep us posted! thanks!
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
I am currently stuck without two 22mm wrenches to remove the upper control arm bolts. May have to put it all back together until I can get the wrenches.... Don't want to buy two wrenches for about $50 bucks right now...
Damnit!
IMG_3689.jpg
I don't see any other way to get those bolts off...
 

tyty13

Adventurer
Where are the bolts at? I do have 1 22mm wrench if you need. Will a socket fit?
 
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Offroadmuch

Explorer
Where are the bolts at? I do have 1 22mm wrench if you need. Will a socket fit?

The picture i posted is horrible. At the left and right of the coil spring on the upper control arm. Sockets won't fit. I hate to put it all back together but money is tight right now so no wrench buying for me.
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
IMG_3694.jpgIMG_3697.jpg
IMG_3695.jpg
IMG_3702.jpg
So the upper control arm bolts are 22mm as well as the lower strut bolt where it attaches to the lower A-arm. Once I had those wrenches. Then it was fairly easy. I used a floor jack to lift the suspension up while also cranking the spring compressors. That helped a lot. Once the strut assembly was loose enough to pull out I removed the upper control arm for clearance. I took off the top plate with the one bolt in the middle holding it in place (this is the top of the strut with the three bolts that protrude up into the wheel wells/engine compartment. Then I pounded out the factory stud bolts since they were too short to accomodate the spacer. Then drilled out those holes to make room for the 3/8" grade-8 replacements. Then also drilled the wheel well holes to allow for the slightly thicker new bolts. Then I had to mill out some of the rubber spacer that sits on top of the spring and under the top plate to make room for the head of the bolts since the replaced the almost flush factory stud bolts. Then I put the whole thing back together (complete strut assembly) with the spacer on top. Then it was installed like a normal strut. Tightened all the bolts and put the wheels back on. The first one took all day with locating tools and some minor stuff. The second one took 30 minutes. The spacers ended up being just over 1". Originally there were about 1 5/8" but I decided not to push my luck and stress the front end with too much lift. I have two 1/4" spacers left over after the cut down job. So I got a solid 2" lift. Drives fine. It does steer a little different, but absolutely ok. Happy to answer any questions. I have all the measurements if you want to make your own spacers. Industrial Metal Supply in Irvine still has plenty of aluminum rounds that work perfectly.
Refer to the video link in post #52, that was helpful but mine was a little more complicated due to thicker spacer and changing the top bolts.
 
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Sabre

Overlanding Nurse
I have spacers ready to install, and will be ordering new bushings to include during the job. Thanks SO MUCH for your detailed report on this project!
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
I have spacers ready to install, and will be ordering new bushings to include during the job. Thanks SO MUCH for your detailed report on this project!

No problem. I should add that I used a breaker bar on all of the suspension bolts, (both upper control arm and lower strut bolts.)
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
IMG_3698.jpg
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IMG_3701.jpg
The spring compressor was rented from O'Reiley Auto Parts. You can see the brand. Great product and quality just FYI. It was about $54.00 which was returned when I brought it back so it ended up being free. You can buy them at Harbor Freight (or your local discount tool store where everything is from China) for about $29.00, no idea what that quality is like.

The pic is an after shot. Not the best picture. I measured under the front crossmember before the job and it was almost exactly 9". After it is a solid 11".
 

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