2001 F350 4x4 7.3L Powerstoke Diesel all-purpose build

[406expo]

I like your build man. It's always fun to get it turned up and built up to fit your needs and wants. I'm also looking at the arb lovkers. I'm still researching the benefits of air locker (arb) vs. Manual locker (ox) as I live up north. I'm running the 7.3 and in snow or mud where we live a little extra traction helps. Also three weight mates for ballast in the back.

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

Not a bad price at all considering everything is in good shape. The thing we like about many older campers is they are aluminum skinned, from what we've seen so far it appears that holds up better to branches and brushes when taken down narrow forest roads and 2-tracks. Dents are normal for the "corrugated" aluminum siding, comes with the territory, lol

If you're serious about getting that thing show up with cash for the full amount the seller wants but only show them say 2500 at first and then work your way up as needed. If it's a private seller they may just bite at 2.5k, especially if you start throwing around the cost of Torklift tie-downs and such. Generally people who do outdoorsy stuff like to see their equipment go to other people who like outdoorsy stuff, if you give them the vibe that you will be enjoying their camper or whatever else as much as they were enjoying it there's a good chance they'll cut you a break on the price just to see it go to a good home.

Well I got lucky and my uncle who I originally bought this truck from, still had the original tie downs by happijack he brought them down from idaho this week. I gave them back to him when i bought the truck so he could put them on his new dodge but they didnt fit right so he had to get new ones anyways. The front brackets are the kind that mount to the bed between the cab. And the rear tie downs will be attached to my tiregate bumper.
The truck is already wired for the Lance style light harness too, it has a plug in the bed which is nice.
I will have time to go get it in two weeks so hopefully it is still for sale by then, ill be happy if I get it for anything under 3000. I called and talked to the consignment sellers and they said the owners are accepting all offers. It probably isnt a very popular model having no toilet, being an older base model, and no rear overhang also its been on the lot for a month now. but its just what the wife and I want.

 

[underdrive]

Don't recall if the Happijack turnbuckles are spring-loaded or not, but if they are not you may wanna consider purchasing someone else's turnbuckles that are. If you get the frame twisted up good while flexing the suspension rigid turnbuckles will likely put a lot of load on the Happijack bar and cause damage to the bed it's acnhored to. Rear turnbuckles are easier to deal with, can always leave them a bit looser than the fronts, seems to make pretty decent difference.

 

[ttravis5446]

I really like your truck. You are giving me all kinds of inspiration for my '00 F250. That seat swap looks awesome and I'm so jealous right now, I'm off to ebay to see what I can find for Grey Lariat seats. I am bookmarking this thread for sure.

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

Thanks for the compliments! if you go to my photobucket the pictures of the seat install should be open for viewing.
Got some new stuff for the truck for xmas and a lot of work to do
the light bars are not rigid like the ones in my bumper they are cheap ones but i am amazed with the quality for the price. and they are very bright, sturdy heavy housing. I will be adding some clear silicon to all the seams and end caps to ensure they stay water tight, that seems to be the biggest complaint is that some get moisture in them. I did get the rigid wiring harnesses through. They are high quality and were a great price on amazon.
50" light bar
NCM_0319_zpsmdspy5ob by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

NCM_0324_zpstfrvylru by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

4" CREE led spots
NCM_0320_zpszrfiozjh by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

Rigid wiring harnesses for both lights
NCM_0326_zps4uk6iffi by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

moog ball joints
NCM_0325_zpsgnp1i1yi by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

RiffRaff OCR
NCM_0327_zpsiwyvjwqe by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

riff raff Ocr is in (overboost code regulator)
NCM_0335_zpsahbqy8fo by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

NCM_0334_zpsyr5tdzne by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

 

[Bella PSD]

Fellow former lurker here and oh boy do I have some questions about modifications you've done that I am very interested to do!



Which stabilizer bracket is this? I've been trying to find a higher clearance option than stock (I've destroyed two stabilizers and stock mount) without much luck on the internet.



I too have a no-frills Super Duty with cloth seats. While the truck had handled 240,000 miles with aplomb, the seats aren't fairing so well. Did you source the seats at a junkyard? How much can someone expect to pay for such seats?

Thanks,

Lynn

I would love to see a picture of the Dual KING steering stabilizers flipped too!!
Louie

 

[Stoney126]

OCR , what's that do? Love riff raff BTW got there ww2 on my turbo along with all the pipe boots and bellowed up pipes

Also what size rim are you running?

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

OCR keeps the computer form setting off the SES light and de-fueling at 22lbs of boost. The ocr keeps the map sensor seeing 22 lbs of boost even when the truck is making higher boost. I make around 25psi with how my waste-gate controller is set. i can set it higher or lower by turning the screw on the side in or out.
20"x10 bmf sota

the stabilizers are off right now i did ball joints, ill snap pics as soon as they are back on and post them up I havent forgotten

 

[TeamWild]

Do you have any pictures of your rear bumper build? I want to do something like that on my superduty soon.

Thanks

 

[five0merc]

Nice build man. Pretty similar in how I want to do mine.

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

finally got the ball joints done because the wife and I were headed up to Idaho for some anniversary camping and fishing. Put over 2,000 miles on her this trip with no problems, knock on wood.
I used a harbor freight ball joint press and some galvanized pipe cut to length, in addition to the adapters than come with the HF kit. It was time consuming but an easy job. first side took 5 hours by myself. second side took 4. PB blaster the night before was by best friend!

couple pics of the work and the fun stuff after the work

IMAG0458_zpsxmoxwt2e by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr



those knuckles sure make my 210lb arm and hammer anvil look small!
IMAG0462_zpsy3iukf79 by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0469_zpsola78on8 by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMG_1882_zps76b1dccb by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMG_3341_zps4bea7a9e by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMG_3342_zpsc4bdedf9 by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMG_3344_zpsda23eec3 by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMG_3346_zpscd955887 by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

 

[ujoint]

Cool truck!

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

Finally got some brackets for my light bar, 35$ off ebay. they are very good quality for the price.
I am using RIGID wiring harnesses and they use the Deutsch weatherproof connectors, I didnt want to cut those off to connect my cheap Amazon LED lights. So I was able to order the male ends of the Deutsch connectors off ebay.
I will post part numbers of everything when I am done for people who want to use the high quality RIGID harnesses with their cheaper amazon led lights.
the RIGID harnesses are priced very well on amazon.
IMAG0765_zpsihtordqw by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

I used a 1/4-20 large flange ribbed steel Nutsert (rivet nut) from the local Fastenal. I popped them with a homemade tool
IMAG0790_zpsjpi1lonq by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0793_zpsyoplic39 by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0797_zpskxahtd4w by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0799_zpsl78t9d6o by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0813_zps7gkp1e1k by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0800_zpsy7ms95ma by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr

IMAG0801_zpsmx4jdves by PWRstroke_smoke, on Flickr