2001 Tundra Suspension Input Requested

[jerstw]

Hey All,

Picked up a 2001 Tundra SR5 TRD Access Cab and focusing on either getting it onto 265/75R16's or 285/75R16's (BFG KO2's on Method 305 NV's in 16x8 with 4.5" backside spacing). This truck will be a daily driver and weekend get away rig for my son, first car (don't worry, he has already paid for part of the truck and will be paying back the 'Bank of Dad' over the next 18-24 months for the rest of the parts). Looking for input on what suspension to stuff under this thing. For context here are the stats on the truck...

• 4.7 with 185K miles, two documented owners, new frame in 2012, body and interior in good to great condition and yes the timing belt and water pump have been done (needed again in 20K miles)
• Fiberglass Safari brand topper (will put my old Packasport cargo box on top and two kayak carriers)
• Building a set of storage drawers and sleeping platform in the back (will add a bit of weight to the back obviously)
• Plans are for a winch and bumper on the front (brand TBD)
• Wilco Tire Gate on the back with a full-size spare and two fuel cans
• Likely wont ever tow anything but a bike carrier

Usage off-road will be mainly forest roads and backwoods, so no high speed desert running or hard core rock crawling. Plan is new shocks all around, thinking 700lbs coils in the front for the weight of a future winch and bumper, upper control arms to help get alignment specs back in check.

Have looked at OME, Icon, Total Chaos, Camburg, Bilstein, Deaver, etc. Would specifically like input from this group on the following:

1. For those of you that have ran 265's and / or 285's on the 1st Gen Tundra's is the MPG hit on the 285's worth it off-road?
2. 1" or 2.5" of lift needed to clear either of these tire sizes?
3. Any firsthand experience with the suspension options for this truck you can share...good, bad, or ugly?
4. Stock Toyota CV axles ok or do I need those high angle boots (really hoping not to need custom high angle CV's) but am hypersensitive to driveline vibration?
5. Front diff drop needed?
6. Thoughts on how to handle the rear suspension...OE leaf replace plus add-a-leaves, or just put add-a-leaves on the 19 year old stock springs?

Appreciate any insight...thanks.

 

[clay124]

I've been running 265s on my AC. You will have to trim some plastic to fit them with stock wheels and 1.25 spacers. I have the Toytec Boss lift kit set on 3" with the heavier springs for my front bumper and winch. I have new Deaver leafs in the back with an extra 500lb capacity over stock and a 1.5" lift. It rides nice, kinda stiff in the back, but still nice. Even better so with load. I have a toolbox in the bed with a couple hundred pounds worth of gear as well. When I lifted the front of my truck, I had to get longer sway bar end links, high angle CV boots, and eventually new axles from CVJ to reduce stress. I would stick with stock axles and definitely new high angle boots. I put a front diff drop kit in after I had driven without one and what a difference! I could feel the stress relieved in the front all the way through the steering wheel. You'll also want an upper control arm with a uni-ball joint. All this has been my experience with the front lifted at 3" and 265s. Lots of first gen Tundra owners seem to like the Bilstein 5100s. Check them out.

 

[jerstw]

Thank you Clay for the input. Can I ask what kind of miles per gallon you’re getting on the 265’s and do you have a side profile picture you could share?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Loubaru]

265/70 is only an inch up from stock isnt it? I have them on my 2006 dc with no lift and have zero issues, i believe the dcs have larger front wheel wells though. Unless your going to offroad a lot I'd start with smaller then move up if necessary.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Mrmrswelch]

265/70 is only an inch up from stock isnt it? I have them on my 2006 dc with no lift and have zero issues, i believe the dcs have larger front wheel wells though. Unless your going to offroad a lot I'd start with smaller then move up if necessary.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

265/70 was the standard option on the TRD models even from 2000 and up. My 2001 is a non TRD but I run 265/70 also with no issues. 265/75 would be such a minimal difference.

 

[bkg]

your son's first truck? I personally wouldn't modify it until he's had a lot of seat time and knows that the truck can and cannot do. From there, modifications can be targeted to what has been learned.

 

[jerstw]

Agreed on the “minimal” difference in going 265/75R16’s...the debate in the household has been more about factoring in how much worse the MPG impact will be going to 285’s.

Also, keeping it stock was certainly the initial plan for the exact reasons mentioned, however based on the items requiring maintenance / replacement at this time we’ve ‘accelerated’ the build in an effort to minimize spending now on stock parts which would be removed likely within 12-18 months.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blueranger501]

1. For those of you that have ran 265's and / or 285's on the 1st Gen Tundra's is the MPG hit on the 285's worth it off-road?

My 04 has 153k on it, bought it new with 11 miles. I ran 285s first, then 265s, then back to 285s. Mileage difference for me was unnoticeable, these engines are not known for superior fuel economy (if this is a concern this is not the truck for your son), would get 12 city, 14-15 mixed. All highway driving nice 16-17. 285s all day, looks so much better. You will have to trim the pinch weld with a sawzall and should clear just fine.

1. 1" or 2.5" of lift needed to clear either of these tire sizes?

2-2.5" to clear and also have a level look.

1. Any firsthand experience with the suspension options for this truck you can share...good, bad, or ugly?

Ran the original Donahoe coilovers until last year with one rebuild. Zero complaints. ICON reviews now seem inconsistent. If it were me right now I would look at King or Fox extended travel (do it right the first time). No need for resis or compression adjustments. Will also need the uniball upper A-Arms to get the extra inch of down travel (stock ball joint will bind up), ran the Camburgs and changed the uniball out once. Get the most out of the suspension and durability.

1. Stock Toyota CV axles ok or do I need those high angle boots (really hoping not to need custom high angle CV's) but am hypersensitive to driveline vibration?

You will need high angle boots, the Kartek 930s work fantastic. Make sure to get a good hose clamp as well otherwise it will spew grease

1. Front diff drop needed?

I did when I did the lift so cant tell you what it was before. Why not and good peace of mind.

1. Thoughts on how to handle the rear suspension...OE leaf replace plus add-a-leaves, or just put add-a-leaves on the 19 year old stock springs?

I did the 3-leaf replacement and pulled the OEM overlaod. Also ran the ICON 2.5 Resi piggyback. Still have that combo actually. GREAT shock, no complaints. I would get 5100s minimum, but if he wants to do go fast consider a 2.5 bolt in replacement. Thought I didnt need it until I put them in, HUGE difference over the stock TRD bilsteins.

To summarize, if it were me I would do:
Front: King or Fox coilover with uniball upper (consider buying from Accutune, they will set it up perfect). Diff drop and high angle boots
Rear: 3-leaf AAL replacement with 5100 or step up to a 2.5 bolt in if going fast

This combo has served me well over the last 16 years of ownership from College to now, he will be beyond stoked.

Also consider the Falken ATW3s, cheaper than BFG and great reviews - I am running those right now. Have run BFG AT KO2, Yokohama Geolanders AT, Cooper Discoverer AT3 and now the Falkens. Really like them.

Also, if going with Methods why not consider the 701s as you get the bead grip technology (what I just switched to).

701 | Method Bronze®

The 701 Bead Grip® wheel was designed to be the perfect wheel for overland enthusiasts. The Bead Grip® technology allows deflation of tires down to pressures that previously would have required beadlock wheels to make sure tires didn’t debead. It’s advantageous to reduce tire inflation pressure...

www.methodracewheels.com

Excited for you and your son, great truck, will bring lots of fantastic memories!

 

[smokeysevin]

I wouldn't run bigger tires without re-gearing, the truck turns into a dog.

How long do you plan on keeping the truck for? Do you want to rebuild shocks vs replace? I have run, stock shocks with daystar spacers, bilstein 5100s and my current Donahoe Racing Coilovers. The coilovers ride much better than any combo.

First thing I would do is check all the suspension pivots, bushings, ball joints, tie rods etc. Buy OEM replacements. Check the alignment cams for play, be prepared to replace them if they are stuck. Don't use aftermarket lower control arm bushings, the poly once fit like garbage.

I have been really happy with my Donahoe Racing Coilovers (old Icons) Camburg upper arms, and stock everything else on the front end.

Sean

 

[blueranger501]

I wouldnt say its a dog with 285s, slightly slower at best. Re-gearing opens up a whole can of worms.....If you go bigger tires might as well regear. If regearing might as well do a rear locker, might as well do a front locker, 5K later......

 

[jerstw]

Thanks for all the input, appreciate it. Few responses...

• Agree on the "looks" of the 285's and recognize this is not a Prius, more so trying to get him to think beyond 5 seconds ahead that tire choices will impact MPG and his monthly cashflow (every part of this build he needs to learn something)
• Heard similar feedback from ICON owners that it is a bit 'hit or miss', while they have not been ruled out they have dropped on the list...Toyotec or Fox set up seems to be coming on the top of the list at the moment.
• Uppers with uniballs are certain but seeking input on Total Chaos vs. SPC. vs. Camburg...he is not bombing through trails so any thoughts?
• Kartek 930's, just heard about these...look like they should do the trick...comparison to the Off Road Solutions option?
• Will check out Accutune, thanks
• Trust me, I am pushing the 701's or the 704's hard for that exact reason, he "digs" the faux beadlock thing (I had them on my previous Ram and he liked them), this battle is not over yet.

He is pretty stoked for this thing and I am grateful we have 5 months to get it dialed in before he turns 16.

 

[blueranger501]

Karteks cost less - just make sure the ones you order are the correct dimensions.

If I was spending $$$ on new uppers I would not want balljoints again, would prefer uniball for the same cost. I cant remember the difference between TC and Camburg, I think TC has a bigger uniball - get whichever is cheaper. Dont forget the slug kit to press in the uniball adapter into the spindle. $20 or something.

For the record I have had no issues with my ICONs.

 

[Samiman]

I ran 285/75/16 duratracs with 4.30 gears. I did the swap using a 3rd gen e-locker front housing cause know one wants them and pulled the rear diff from a t-100 or Tacoma.

 

[smokeysevin]

I wouldnt say its a dog with 285s, slightly slower at best. Re-gearing opens up a whole can of worms.....If you go bigger tires might as well regear. If regearing might as well do a rear locker, might as well do a front locker, 5K later......

My truck with stock gears ran a 16.7 1/4 mile with 285's before I re-geared to 4.56s and a 15.2 afterwards. No other changes.

The biggest difference I noticed was that when going up highway overpasses it would hunt between 4th and 3rd at 65ish mph before I re geared. It also got garbage gas mileage when you accounted for the extra tire height adjusting the revs/mile.

Yes, its expensive but one of the things that I consider to be 100% worth it especially when you run a locker as well. The other mod I would prioritize again immediately if I was starting over would be the headlight projector retrofit.

Sean

 

[blueranger501]

Agreed it’s not ideal but absolutely driveable. Had the same issues on highway grades, I just dropped into 3rd and powered up. Now that I am overgeared w 4.88s and 35s I no longer have that issue. 4.56 and 285s would be a killer combo.