Regcabguy
Oil eater.
Agreed. Not enough flexible,tougher material. Not rocket science.
2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"
- Thread starter Kpack
- Start date
Jc1986.carter
Active member
That is a good looking DC tundra. I love 1st Gen tundras and t100s.
Kpack
Adventurer
Keeping a close eye on it and no grease loss yet. It's been on highway and a couple dozen miles of rough FS roads, 4HI and 4LO. Still very possible to have issues with it though.
Nice Sequoia! Wasn't sure I'd like the bronze/black combo but I think they go together very well.Love the SCS wheels! Especially in bronze on a black truck
1st Gen Tundra's are a lot of fun. Kind of a jack of all trades I guess....not incredible at any one thing, but good enough at lots of things. Mine has taken a lot to get it where it is, and I still have a few issues to sort out before I can confidently say that it's reliable. But that's part of the fun, right?
High Country
Member
You and me both... 
Kpack
Adventurer
After my last jaunt up into the mountains (see previous) the noise and vibration I've been trying to diagnose got significantly worse. Now it really kicks in at 40mph and is much stronger.
Out of curiosity I put the rear score on jack stands and had my wife get the wheels up to 40mph. I didn't hear any nose from the center driveshaft carrier bearing, but the rubber on it is destroyed. The rear diff though was howling pretty loudly.
My mechanic confirmed that he heard the howling as well as some grinding and popping. Not good. Fluid level is good, no leaks.
So now I have an appointment with Mule Expedition Outfitters beginning of June for rear diff rebuild and ARB locker. Might as well throw a locker in if it's going to be apart, right?
My question is could the rear diff problems and center driveshaft bearing be causing this noise and vibration? I'm feeling it in the gas pedal, steering wheel, and floorboards. Much stronger now than before.
Out of curiosity I put the rear score on jack stands and had my wife get the wheels up to 40mph. I didn't hear any nose from the center driveshaft carrier bearing, but the rubber on it is destroyed. The rear diff though was howling pretty loudly.
My mechanic confirmed that he heard the howling as well as some grinding and popping. Not good. Fluid level is good, no leaks.
So now I have an appointment with Mule Expedition Outfitters beginning of June for rear diff rebuild and ARB locker. Might as well throw a locker in if it's going to be apart, right?
My question is could the rear diff problems and center driveshaft bearing be causing this noise and vibration? I'm feeling it in the gas pedal, steering wheel, and floorboards. Much stronger now than before.
Kpack
Adventurer
While my truck is parked in the garage waiting for the rear diff rebuild and ARB locker, I've decided to tackle a few other projects. First up is the jack.
(note: I like the way Sal R. has done his thread, so I'm formatting mine now like he did.... Hope you don't mind Sal!! : https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/2002-sequoia-limited-4wd.192169/)
Project
Mount the Hi-Lift jack securely to the bed box so it doesn't bounce around the bed.
Cost
Hi-Lift 4XRAC mounting brackets = $40
Nutserts (1/4"-20) = $13
Threaded insert tool = $30
Total = ~$85
How to
Use the mounting brackets to mark holes. Drill with a 25/64" bit. Use the insert tool to set the nutserts. Install 4XRAC as directed.
I mounted it under the passenger side bed rail so it was out of the way. 4 holes drilled:
Nutserts set
Bracket on. I will likely go back and install lock washers on each of the mounting bolts.
All mounted up. Feels very solid, and the large mounting area of the brackets should help distribute the load over the sheet metal (I hope).
Top view....the jack sticks out past the edge of the bed rail by about 1.5-2".
Looks worse from this angle, but it really doesn't stick out far. Not too obtrusive.
(note: I like the way Sal R. has done his thread, so I'm formatting mine now like he did.... Hope you don't mind Sal!! : https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/2002-sequoia-limited-4wd.192169/)
Project
Mount the Hi-Lift jack securely to the bed box so it doesn't bounce around the bed.
Cost
Hi-Lift 4XRAC mounting brackets = $40
Nutserts (1/4"-20) = $13
Threaded insert tool = $30
Total = ~$85
How to
Use the mounting brackets to mark holes. Drill with a 25/64" bit. Use the insert tool to set the nutserts. Install 4XRAC as directed.
I mounted it under the passenger side bed rail so it was out of the way. 4 holes drilled:
Nutserts set
Bracket on. I will likely go back and install lock washers on each of the mounting bolts.
All mounted up. Feels very solid, and the large mounting area of the brackets should help distribute the load over the sheet metal (I hope).
Top view....the jack sticks out past the edge of the bed rail by about 1.5-2".
Looks worse from this angle, but it really doesn't stick out far. Not too obtrusive.
blueranger501
Observer
Going for gears while your in there or sticking with 3.91s?
High Country
Member
Kpack
Adventurer
I'd love to regear but I'm kind of tired of spending money right now. If I regear the rear then I need to regear the front and I'm just not ready for that. The bill for rear diff rebuild and locker install is a little over $2000 and I just don't want to spend more. Can I do the rear and just not use 4WD until I do the front? I'd love to eventually regear and get some power back, but on 33's I don't feel like the power loss is terrible.
Hope you like it! I've enjoyed reading through your thread.Not sure if im subscribed to this thread.. wanna catch up with it late!
Yes I could've mounted it higher up. I kept it as low as possible to leave space for something else above it. I'm thinking a full-size shovel mounted with Quick Fist clamps, but I'll have to see if it will even fit. Now that I have the tool to set the nutserts, I can easily add more mounting points.@Kpack Could you have mounted it higher toward the upper rail? I've been considering various ways to mount stuff in the back of my truck, but want to keep it as high up as possible. Thanks for posting the links, always good to have the part sources!
blueranger501
Observer
I hear you on the gears. I want a rear locker and 4.56s for my 33s but hard bullet to bite vs Locker only. Performance is okay. Not great....
Kpack
Adventurer
Puttering around while I wait for the rear end rebuild, I noticed something a little odd with the driveshaft. It almost looks like the rear axle is off centered?? I took a string from the center of the front driveshaft flange and took it straight back to the rear diff, centering the string on the rear driveshaft flange in the process. The result is that the string is noticeably to the passenger side of the diff. Is this normal?? I have no Tundra's nearby that I can compare to.
See here:
Could this be related to the vibration I'm feeling? The shop doing the rear end rebuild will also be replacing my driveshaft carrier bearing so I'm sure they'll get it all straightened up.
I checked over the leaf springs, and didn't see any obvious signs of bent mounting brackets or anything. The passenger bump stop went missing at some point. I'm going to replace the springs soon and do a U-bolt flip at the same time with new bumps.
See here:
Could this be related to the vibration I'm feeling? The shop doing the rear end rebuild will also be replacing my driveshaft carrier bearing so I'm sure they'll get it all straightened up.
I checked over the leaf springs, and didn't see any obvious signs of bent mounting brackets or anything. The passenger bump stop went missing at some point. I'm going to replace the springs soon and do a U-bolt flip at the same time with new bumps.
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