2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"
- Thread starter Kpack
- Start date
bkg
Explorer
I used to only buy BFg’s. But they’ve gotten a little too proud of them, which is reflected in the price. I put General Grabber AT2’s on my doublecab a couple of years ago and love them. Not only cheaper, but available in Load Range D. Just ordered 4 more yesterday from Discount Tire. Paid $165/each (price match) for 285/75-16’s. They are replacing the nearly new 275/70-16 BFG AT’s on my “new to me” 4Runner. Running a 10-ply on a light vehicle is overkill. I ran load range C’s on my 1st gen tundra’s.
EDIT: Well shoot... General stopped making the AT2... replaced with the ATX... which is only available in Load Range E.... /kicks dirt
EDIT: Well shoot... General stopped making the AT2... replaced with the ATX... which is only available in Load Range E.... /kicks dirt
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High Country
Member
I have the ST Maxx on my tundra. I'd buy them again, if that helps... 
tennesseewj
Observer
Ouch! Sounds like money well spent, but spending that much still hurts. I'm glad there was a tangible improvement to at least make it feel worthwhile.
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Kpack
Adventurer
Took a closer look under the truck and saw that they went ahead and just replaced the entire LCA's along with the bushings. The shop probably destroyed the old LCA's cutting the bolts off. So that's part of the expense...the cheapest I found OEM ones for online was $200 a piece. Plus new cam bolts, alignment, and tax. The rest was all labor....well worth it to me if it means I don't have to do it.
I've noticed ever since the new alignment that I rub like crazy before I get to full lock. I never hit the pinch weld before but now I'm all over it. That's not going to work for trail running....looks like to it's time to pound on the pinch weld and flatten it.
They must have changed the caster when they did the alignment, but I thought that you can't change caster with uniball UCA's??? Would changing just the camber and the toe push the wheels further back in the wheel well? Whatever it is, the wheels are definitely further back than they used to be....or my old alignment was just so far off that the tires completely missed the pinch weld.
-Kevin
I haven't read what UCA's that you got, but they do change the caster from stock. And they have to adjust with alignment cam's You probably are running more caster. I always get a print out of an alignment so i can see what they did. Or they adjusted your caster to stock caster, buy pushing the LCA back to accomadate the extra caster put into UCA's...Just depends on what ones you got but most aftermarket UCA's will add caster.
Kpack
Adventurer
Camburg UCA's. I know they increase caster over stock, which from what I understand is a good thing. I didn't realize you could push the LCA's back and decrease the caster again....that must be what they did. I don't have a printout because the shop that did the work had a third-party shop do the alignment, and they didn't provide my shop with the final information.
I will probably need it realigned. When I turn to passenger I can only get about halfway before the tire starts destroying the inner wheel well.....I don't think any amount of hammering on the pinch weld is going to give me enough space. Time to get on the phone, sigh.
Smileyshaun
Observer
the st maxx is surprisingly quiet and smooth and work fantastic in the snow and ice but they are heavy and quite stiff. had them on my sequoia in a 255/85r16 and they really wouldn't start to squat down till you dropped them down to 18psi . they also don't have the snowflake rating so if you travel in areas where traction tires are required that could be a issue ( never been stopped for it in my life )
ko2 just plain work well in all conditions, fantastic tire , there is a reason they are so popular
another tire to check out is the falken wildpeak atw3, buddy has them on a jk and I have been extremely impressed with where they drag that thing around , goes places a at tire shouldn't be getting traction still . also winter rated
ko2 just plain work well in all conditions, fantastic tire , there is a reason they are so popular
another tire to check out is the falken wildpeak atw3, buddy has them on a jk and I have been extremely impressed with where they drag that thing around , goes places a at tire shouldn't be getting traction still . also winter rated
SportsmanJake
Adventurer
-Gamiviti hood mount bracket for Toyota (http://www.gamiviti.com/antenna-brackets)
The bracket fits perfectly. Remove this bolt, put the bracket on, and tighten it back up. The bracket I ordered is made for the driver's side, and accounts for the downward rake of the engine bay, and holds the antenna straight up.
I routed the coax past the rear of the hydraulic hood lift so it wouldn't get pinched. I then routed the coax through the firewall. On my truck there was a piece in the existing rubber grommet that looked like it was there for this purpose. I clipped off the tip of the rubber, opening a hole, and fished the coax through. On the coax cable I bought I had to remove the PL-259 end in order for it to fit. I got rid of all the excess cable this way too.
I routed the cable under the lower edge of the dash and behind the center console. The cable lays on top of the tray and terminates around the cup holders. I soldered a new PL 239 connector on, then attached it to the 239-SMA female adapter and then onto the radio.
.
Did you have to mod/bend your gamiviti mount at all?
I just put one on the drivers side of my access cab in the same location and the hood wont close without scraping it. When I close the hood, it pushes the mount towards the fender. Also, is the gap between the fender and hood enough room for the coax to run without it getting damaged?
Kpack
Adventurer
I'll have to look into the AT3....looks less expensive than the KO2's. Snow rated is also a good thing here. Last winter wasn't bad, but the winter before was brutal!
I'm pretty sure I had to bend mine out to the fender slightly so it didn't hit the hood. Once installed I then bent the mounting surface a bit back towards the hood so the antenna would stand up straight. There is just enough room for the coax cable to run between the fender and the hood when closed. It's a tight fit, but no damage at all when opening and closing. I'll get a picture and post it later.
I'm considering getting a second Gamiviti mount for the other side to replace my factory antenna. Whoever had the truck before me broke the factory antenna off and the mounting threads are completely stripped, so I can't replace it easily. I'm wondering if I could use a a different antenna on a Gamiviti mount and plug it into my head unit? I don't listen to the radio much, but it would at least be nice to have that option.
I wonder if just that size doesn't have the snow flake rating? I swear they did....if they don't that would probably change my tire choice.
EDIT **did some research and apparently they aren't rated**
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Kpack
Adventurer
So you other 1st gen owners with aftermarket UCA's (Camburg, Total Chaos, SPC, etc)....what are your alignment numbers? Specifically what is your caster set to??
Factory spec is 0.5 degrees....upper end of factory spec is 2 degrees. Camburg says to set it at 6 degrees. What do you all think? The alignment guys want me to give them a number to hit, and I'm not sure. They gave me the necessary "setting specs different from factory could cause abnormal wear, etc", but if camber and toe are dead on, positive caster should only help steering stability right?? Shouldn't have any adverse effects on tire wear, right?
Factory spec is 0.5 degrees....upper end of factory spec is 2 degrees. Camburg says to set it at 6 degrees. What do you all think? The alignment guys want me to give them a number to hit, and I'm not sure. They gave me the necessary "setting specs different from factory could cause abnormal wear, etc", but if camber and toe are dead on, positive caster should only help steering stability right?? Shouldn't have any adverse effects on tire wear, right?
toyotech
Expedition Leader
I adjust mine for maximum positive caster (outside of spec if needed) while keeping camber near 0. This is what you tell the shop. But it also takes an alignment tech who knows what they are doing since caster and camber is adjusted together at the same time. It takes a little playing around but like I said a good alignment tech will know what you mean.
Everyone is going to get slightly different numbers especially if the numbers are going to be outside of factory spec. You may get close to what I got or maybe even more caster.
I did mine to 3.0 caster. 0 camber and 0 toe
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