2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"

[Kpack]

Need some advice here guys. For a while now I felt like something looked a little "off" with the lines of the truck. It has always seemed like the bed of the truck is "tipped backwards" if that makes sense.

I pulled out a tape measure and checked some gaps. I found that there is a 1/4" discrepancy between the top of the bed and the bottom of the bed. 1.5" on top, 1.25" on bottom.

Does the bed look tipped back to you, or is it just me?

Am I just seeing things here, or is this actually an issue? What would cause this? Bent frame? What are my next steps if it is?

 

[BattleCat]

In the pictures you posted, to me it does look as if you might have a slight tilt backward. I'm not sure what the cause or solution is, but here's a picture of mine to compare against.

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[SC T100]

Funny you say that...I've often thought mine looked a little off like yours. I thought it might have just been the damaged bed rail caps throwing me off but maybe not. I guess I need to measure mine, too.

 

[Sal R.]

That would bug the hell out of me. I'd add shims to even it out.

 

[Kpack]

In the pictures you posted, to me it does look as if you might have a slight tilt backward. I'm not sure what the cause or solution is, but here's a picture of mine to compare against.

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Your's looks like most Tundra's I've seen.....the upper bed rail is straight with the lower border of the windows. The body panel line is continuous from the cab to the bed as well. Mine definitely is not that way.

Funny you say that...I've often thought mine looked a little off like yours. I thought it might have just been the damaged bed rail caps throwing me off but maybe not. I guess I need to measure mine, too.

Yeah, your's looks like mine. Any history of accident at all? Mine apparently had a sideswipe sometime in the past, but it looked like minor body damage (the driver's rear fender was loose)

That would bug the hell out of me. I'd add shims to even it out.

It bugs the heck out of me. Where would I add shims? If I have to pull the bed, then I will need to uncover all the bed bolts. Previous owner had them all covered with LineX. I'm sure it'll be super fun to dig those out....

 

[tennesseewj]

Took some photos FWIW

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[SC T100]

Yeah, your's looks like mine. Any history of accident at all? Mine apparently had a sideswipe sometime in the past, but it looked like minor body damage (the driver's rear fender was loose)

I don't believe so, as the CarFax was clean if I remember correctly. I believe one of the POs had the bed off, though, at some point as there is a DIY gooseneck hitch made of a huge thick plate bolted between the rear frame rails (with the top plate roughly cut and welded...I don't see how it could have been done with the bed on) and it had a large ball attached through a hole in the bed. There are also a few holes in each side that looks like air bags were installed at some point. In all honesty it's possible it could be from towing over the limit and the frame is tweaked, or they just put the bed back on without getting it lined up right. Or it could have been an accident that wasn't reported, but I don't see any evidence of that. I'll try and get some measurements to confirm.

 

[Kpack]

Haven't made any progress on the bed issue. Still not sure where to go from here. How would I measure the frame to see if it's straight?

Snow is finally melting around here so I took my daughters up for a quick overnight trip in the mountains. Did an easy one this time and rented a small primitive cabin with a wood stove. They had a great time. I cooked off the back of the truck:

I really need to find a better chuck box solution. I hate digging around inside a tote. What are you all using?

Once my Brute Force Fab rear bumper is done I'll have a nice integrated fold-down table on the right side to use as well. Should give me a lot more room to work with.

 

[Kpack]

Noticed a wet spot under the front of my truck the other day. Got under there and found gear oil all around the center of the diff.

Checked the axle seals and the driveshaft input seals and they are all dry. The drain plug and fill plug are tight and dry. I checked further up and found this:

The black hose going into the top of the diff is the front diff breather hose. The tube itself here is metal, with a rubber connector to the nipple on top of the diff. It looks like it is leaking between the two.

There is almost no room to work here. I hope to remove the metal tube completely and replace with a 3/8" hose going higher into the engine bay than the stock location. Problem is that this metal tube is connected to a smaller metal tube going to the ADD actuator. Anyone had any success removing and replacing this?

To be safe I topped off the diff fluid. It wasn't hardly low at all.

 

[Loubaru]

Sound like the metal tube presses into another tube? If so, I don't think I would touch it without having the diff removed. Looks like you have zero room to get anything back in.

This isn't ideal but since the vent is under little to no pressure have you thought about cleaning around the leak and using some type of liquid sealant? If you can get it in there fusion tape or something along those lines. Or if you want to get fancy that pre-impregnated carbon fiber tape they sell.

 

[tennesseewj]

My first thought was to drop the diff as well just to make it accessible.

I've heard of gear oil leaking from breather tubes if the differential gets over-filled. Any chance that happened? That does seem like quite a bit of oil, though.

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[Kpack]

Sound like the metal tube presses into another tube? If so, I don't think I would touch it without having the diff removed. Looks like you have zero room to get anything back in.

This isn't ideal but since the vent is under little to no pressure have you thought about cleaning around the leak and using some type of liquid sealant? If you can get it in there fusion tape or something along those lines. Or if you want to get fancy that pre-impregnated carbon fiber tape they sell.

It looks like the metal tube connects to a rubber sleeve that then fits over the nipple on the differential.

I haven't thought about any type of sealant or tape. There's just no way I could wrap anything around it. If I'm going to get in there and fix it, I'd rather just make sure that I don't have any issues again. My plan is to use 3/8" hose, clamp it on the nipple, and then run the hose up to the top of the engine bay and replace the vent with a new one. I'm guessing the old vent is clogged or defective, and that's why it blew out the junction further down.

My first thought was to drop the diff as well just to make it accessible.

I've heard of gear oil leaking from breather tubes if the differential gets over-filled. Any chance that happened? That does seem like quite a bit of oil, though.

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I was really hoping not to drop the diff, but it looks like I might need to. I've never done that myself. Could I just drop it a bit (supported of course) without having to remove the axles and all the other junk that comes along with it?

I've heard the same about leaking after an overfill, but I don't think that's the case here. It would normally spit out the vent at the end of the breather, and this is leaking right at the diff. It looks like the rubber and metal tube aren't lined up anymore, or the rubber might be split. Regardless, I don't want to leave this long-term because now it's far easier for water to get into the diff with the leak as far down as it is.

 

[tennesseewj]

I'm ASSuming you can drop it a little bit without disconnecting anything since many folks run diff drops on these trucks. Hopefully it will give you some space to get your hand in at least

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[Loubaru]

It looks like the metal tube connects to a rubber sleeve that then fits over the nipple on the differential.

I haven't thought about any type of sealant or tape. There's just no way I could wrap anything around it. If I'm going to get in there and fix it, I'd rather just make sure that I don't have any issues again. My plan is to use 3/8" hose, clamp it on the nipple, and then run the hose up to the top of the engine bay and replace the vent with a new one. I'm guessing the old vent is clogged or defective, and that's why it blew out the junction further down.

Makes sense on the clogged breather. Are you planning on cutting the nipple down? Just wondering how you can get to it w/ a hose clamp without being able to tape it. Although I do agree that hose clamp/tubing is a way better long term deal. No matter what way you look at it seems like its going to be a huge PINA without at least dropping the diff a little. Maybe I need to look at mine....I've noticed a little moister down there but have always assumed its power steering fluid weeping. Nothing is low so never worried about it. Changed the front diff oil when I bought the truck 2 years ago but haven't looked at it since.

 

[Kpack]

Well, I'm going to have to sit on this one for a bit and figure out how I'm going to make it happen. I really don't want to drop the diff just to put on a hose. I'll look closer at the rubber fitting that's on there now and if it's in good shape I might just try to reconnect it to the metal tube, then swap out the breather vent in the engine bay.

Or, I'll throw it on my neighbor's lift and take off the driver's front tire and the splash shielding and see if I can get in there better that way.

Maybe I need to look at mine....I've noticed a little moister down there but have always assumed its power steering fluid weeping. Nothing is low so never worried about it. Changed the front diff oil when I bought the truck 2 years ago but haven't looked at it since.

Speaking of leaking PS fluid, my rack is leaking pretty bad out of both sides:

So it's on my list to do as well. Anyone have suggestions on brand for a replacement rack?

My power steering pump whines like crazy when I'm on the trails and turning aggressively at slow speed. Fluid is all new and full. My guess is that it's getting too hot, so I also plan to replace the factory PS cooling 'loop' with a real cooler and maybe aux fan.