2005 Tundra novice build - "The Rez"
- Thread starter Kpack
- Start date
zoomspeed05
New member
I have a black double cab bed for sale in florida, i could let it go for a low price if you can find a way to ship it to you.
Kpack
Adventurer
I'd imagine that shipping for that would be atrocious. I'm not even sure how to ship something that big. I'll ask around and see what options there are, but I'm assuming it's going to be very pricey.
I haven't done anything yet to replace the bed on the truck. My time has been taken up by so many other things that the truck is just sitting there for now. I really need to get it up and going now that spring is here. I need to get out camping with the kids.
zoomspeed05
New member
come take a road trip to Florida in the tundra haha
Kpack
Adventurer
The Rez has some new life! I have been spending all my free time on other projects for several months, with no time left for the truck except to watch the rust from the winter continue to mess with the whole back half.
I went through and cleaned off any surface rust I could find from the frame, then cleaned and painted it with two layers. I will definitely get back to the Fluid Film routine before winter. The didn't apply it the last two years, and the truck was stored outdoors all winter. It shows. This winter I finally have space for it to stay indoors. I applied Fluid Film now to the parts that are difficult to access, and will hit the rest before winter.
I then installed a dash mount from Kam Design Studios. I've been looking for something like this for a while, but nothing was available for the 1st gen Tundras/Sequoias because of the curved dash. Kam Design solved that problem with a 3D scanner and some CAD design. The mount shipped quickly and communication was excellent. The instructions were clear and straightforward. It's not an overly difficult install, but it does take some patience. It accepts RAM balls with no problem and seems to be rock solid. I'm very happy with it.
And after looking for a replacement bed, and trying to get someone to weld up a flatbed for me, after 6 months I finally gave up. I figured I would try to do something with my old crushed bed. I originally was thinking of cutting the sides all the way off and using the factory floor as a flatbed. It's a pretty ghetto idea, but something is better than nothing. I'm sick of not being able to carry anything in the truck.
However instead of going full flatbed, I decided to first cut off the outer skins on the side and see what was underneath. To my surprise the inner skins on their own still seem to be plenty strong and sturdy. I have to straighten the passenger side quite a bit, but the driver's isn't bad. Once straightened I should be able to still use the factory tie down loops. I have to say the factory olive drab primer is not a bad look. I'll paint over the primer eventually to protect it (I don't expect it will stand up to the sun and elements)....but I might just paint the bedsides olive drab because I'm digging the look so much.
With the outer skin removed I have at least 6-8" of useable space now. I'm thinking of making some sort of a mounting rack in the future to mount whatever in that dead space....bags, Rotopax, Maxtrax, etc. Might as well use all that extra room for something.
I will have some things to figure out. There is an awkward open space in front of the wheel wells. And I probably ought to make something to cover up open space behind the wheel also. Otherwise wheel spray is going to get everywhere.
Thoughts on this set up? It's the best I can think of for the moment until I either find a new bed or learn how to weld up a flatbed. Otherwise, I'm curious to see if the chopped besides will actually be a functional alternative.
I went through and cleaned off any surface rust I could find from the frame, then cleaned and painted it with two layers. I will definitely get back to the Fluid Film routine before winter. The didn't apply it the last two years, and the truck was stored outdoors all winter. It shows. This winter I finally have space for it to stay indoors. I applied Fluid Film now to the parts that are difficult to access, and will hit the rest before winter.
I then installed a dash mount from Kam Design Studios. I've been looking for something like this for a while, but nothing was available for the 1st gen Tundras/Sequoias because of the curved dash. Kam Design solved that problem with a 3D scanner and some CAD design. The mount shipped quickly and communication was excellent. The instructions were clear and straightforward. It's not an overly difficult install, but it does take some patience. It accepts RAM balls with no problem and seems to be rock solid. I'm very happy with it.
And after looking for a replacement bed, and trying to get someone to weld up a flatbed for me, after 6 months I finally gave up. I figured I would try to do something with my old crushed bed. I originally was thinking of cutting the sides all the way off and using the factory floor as a flatbed. It's a pretty ghetto idea, but something is better than nothing. I'm sick of not being able to carry anything in the truck.
However instead of going full flatbed, I decided to first cut off the outer skins on the side and see what was underneath. To my surprise the inner skins on their own still seem to be plenty strong and sturdy. I have to straighten the passenger side quite a bit, but the driver's isn't bad. Once straightened I should be able to still use the factory tie down loops. I have to say the factory olive drab primer is not a bad look. I'll paint over the primer eventually to protect it (I don't expect it will stand up to the sun and elements)....but I might just paint the bedsides olive drab because I'm digging the look so much.
With the outer skin removed I have at least 6-8" of useable space now. I'm thinking of making some sort of a mounting rack in the future to mount whatever in that dead space....bags, Rotopax, Maxtrax, etc. Might as well use all that extra room for something.
I will have some things to figure out. There is an awkward open space in front of the wheel wells. And I probably ought to make something to cover up open space behind the wheel also. Otherwise wheel spray is going to get everywhere.
Thoughts on this set up? It's the best I can think of for the moment until I either find a new bed or learn how to weld up a flatbed. Otherwise, I'm curious to see if the chopped besides will actually be a functional alternative.
Attachments
I like the "step side" bed and the idea that you would use that space for recovery mats or fuel cans. I do not care for the factory Tundra step side beds; yours is much better. Consider a two-part Aliphatic PolyUrea for the inner fender wells and a thinned bar and chain oil, as a undercoating and alternative to Fluid Film.
bkg
Explorer
I’m either incredibly impressed… or confused…The Rez has some new life! I have been spending all my free time on other projects for several months, with no time left for the truck except to watch the rust from the winter continue to mess with the whole back half.
I went through and cleaned off any surface rust I could find from the frame, then cleaned and painted it with two layers. I will definitely get back to the Fluid Film routine before winter. The didn't apply it the last two years, and the truck was stored outdoors all winter. It shows. This winter I finally have space for it to stay indoors. I applied Fluid Film now to the parts that are difficult to access, and will hit the rest before winter.
I then installed a dash mount from Kam Design Studios. I've been looking for something like this for a while, but nothing was available for the 1st gen Tundras/Sequoias because of the curved dash. Kam Design solved that problem with a 3D scanner and some CAD design. The mount shipped quickly and communication was excellent. The instructions were clear and straightforward. It's not an overly difficult install, but it does take some patience. It accepts RAM balls with no problem and seems to be rock solid. I'm very happy with it.
View attachment 724120
View attachment 724121
And after looking for a replacement bed, and trying to get someone to weld up a flatbed for me, after 6 months I finally gave up. I figured I would try to do something with my old crushed bed. I originally was thinking of cutting the sides all the way off and using the factory floor as a flatbed. It's a pretty ghetto idea, but something is better than nothing. I'm sick of not being able to carry anything in the truck.
However instead of going full flatbed, I decided to first cut off the outer skins on the side and see what was underneath. To my surprise the inner skins on their own still seem to be plenty strong and sturdy. I have to straighten the passenger side quite a bit, but the driver's isn't bad. Once straightened I should be able to still use the factory tie down loops. I have to say the factory olive drab primer is not a bad look. I'll paint over the primer eventually to protect it (I don't expect it will stand up to the sun and elements)....but I might just paint the bedsides olive drab because I'm digging the look so much.
View attachment 724126
View attachment 724127
With the outer skin removed I have at least 6-8" of useable space now. I'm thinking of making some sort of a mounting rack in the future to mount whatever in that dead space....bags, Rotopax, Maxtrax, etc. Might as well use all that extra room for something.
View attachment 724128
I will have some things to figure out. There is an awkward open space in front of the wheel wells. And I probably ought to make something to cover up open space behind the wheel also. Otherwise wheel spray is going to get everywhere.
View attachment 724129
View attachment 724130
Thoughts on this set up? It's the best I can think of for the moment until I either find a new bed or learn how to weld up a flatbed. Otherwise, I'm curious to see if the chopped besides will actually be a functional alternative.
And I’m not sure I care which one at this point, because I kind of dig it.
Kpack
Adventurer
Like you, I don't care for the Toyota step side beds. That's not what I was going for here, but I guess you're right....it does have that look. Good advice on the chain oil as well. I haven't heard of that trick before. The Fluid Film works great, but man is it stinky.
My thoughts exactly.....the look is growing on me. What I did here was out of pure necessity. I would never cut up good sheet metal. But both sides of my bed were crushed beyond saving, the passenger side so bad that it pushed the inner bed metal a good 4-5" in. It will take some work to straighten that out. It was either try and save the inner bed metal, or cut the sides all the way off and use the factory bed floor as a flat bed. In the end, I really wanted to try and see if I could salvage the inner part of the bed and be able to still throw things in the back. I use my truck as a truck and often have to haul quite a bit in the bed, in addition to wheeling, camping, etc. A flat bed would make it tough to haul things as it would have to be tied down all the time.
This whole thing is a bit of an experiment and a proof-of-concept. If it works and is somewhat practical, then maybe it's an option for others who find themselves with significant body damage? I guess we'll see. I'm open to suggestions on next steps.
smokeysevin
Re-redoing things the third time
I vote Utility Bed or glass fenders.
2004-2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Bedsides
Bulge Rise 4.5" 2.5" Works With Your Factory Tailgate & Tail Lights Fits The 6' Bed Found Only On Double Cab Trucks Optional OEM Style Fuel Door Pocket Available Includes Driver & Passenger Bedsides
www.fiberwerx.com
Sean
Kpack
Adventurer
I will definitely be bolting things to the side. No sense in wasting space, and I'd like to keep the inside of the bed as open as possible. Both to haul things, and that's where I sleep when camping.
I'm also wondering about the top rail spreading. The metal on the inner bed is much thicker and more stout than I expected. Even without the outer skin, the bedsides don't flex at all. The out skins were only really attached at the wheel wells and at the tail light area. I'm sure they provided some structural strength, but how much I don't know. I'm considering doing some sort of bed stiffener like the Tacos end up getting. I have to straighten out the rear of the bed before I do those.
I just used an angle grinder with cut off discs to cut the metal. They did a great job and made pretty quick work of it. I cleaned up the cuts with some flap discs. I painted the bare edges to prevent flash rusting. I'll probably put some automotive edging rubber on the edges to both protect from the elements, and also to create a soft edge.
I vote Utility Bed or glass fenders.
2004-2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab Bedsides
Bulge Rise 4.5" 2.5" Works With Your Factory Tailgate & Tail Lights Fits The 6' Bed Found Only On Double Cab Trucks Optional OEM Style Fuel Door Pocket Available Includes Driver & Passenger Bedsides
Sean
Utility beds would be nice for the storage, but they are impractical for what I need the truck for. They would be too heavy and too wide. Pacific Northwest trails are tight. Anything that hangs out past the cab is asking for trouble.
I definitely considered fiberglass early on. But I would need to do front and back, because just rear would look stupid. And flared fiberglass fenders without going full long travel also looks dumb IMO. As much as I would love to do long travel, I really don't feel like spending $7K on that right now. Too many other more important things that take priority.
Kpack
Adventurer
A friend helped me over the weekend, and we were able to get the passenger side of the bed straightened out. I still have a bit of work to do around where the taillights used to be, but I need to get some different tools to do that. But it's nice to have the bed straight again. There's no way that it could have been done with the side skins still on. It took a lot of force and a lot of hammering.
With the bed straight again, I reinstalled all the things that I previously had on the bed: hi-lift mounts and jack, two 60mm mortar cans (one for recovery gear and one for fluids), and my chase light. I'm toying with different options for storage on the outside of the bed. There was 6-8" of wasted depth with the sheet metal there. Might have enough room to throw a couple of recovery boards on the side. Maybe another jerry can for water as well. If I can find the right box I might throw some tools out there also. I want to keep the inside of the bed mostly free since I sleep there when camping. And I want to not have the inside of the cab full of stuff either.
With the bed straight again, I reinstalled all the things that I previously had on the bed: hi-lift mounts and jack, two 60mm mortar cans (one for recovery gear and one for fluids), and my chase light. I'm toying with different options for storage on the outside of the bed. There was 6-8" of wasted depth with the sheet metal there. Might have enough room to throw a couple of recovery boards on the side. Maybe another jerry can for water as well. If I can find the right box I might throw some tools out there also. I want to keep the inside of the bed mostly free since I sleep there when camping. And I want to not have the inside of the cab full of stuff either.
Kpack
Adventurer
My original muffler was disintegrating....I would say probably 1/5 of it was just missing. Way too much corrosive stuff on the roads here in winter. Around town it wasn't terrible, but the drone on the freeway was deafening. With so many other projects going on I just left it alone, but finally had some time to get it dealt with.
Local place cut the old one off, and replaced with a different style muffler and new tailpipe. I didn't really care what brand the muffler was.....just needed something durable and quiet. We carried the tailpipe up high and tight, and dumped it right behind the rear bumper. I love the new placement because it can't be seen at all, and will not be in any danger of getting hit on the trails. Truck is super quiet now, which I love. I'd had enough with the loud and annoying.
Local place cut the old one off, and replaced with a different style muffler and new tailpipe. I didn't really care what brand the muffler was.....just needed something durable and quiet. We carried the tailpipe up high and tight, and dumped it right behind the rear bumper. I love the new placement because it can't be seen at all, and will not be in any danger of getting hit on the trails. Truck is super quiet now, which I love. I'd had enough with the loud and annoying.
zoomspeed05
New member
Make some storage boxes in between the rear wheels and cab , weld them to the bed. Also you can rhino line the bed black to make it match the original black color. To be honest is looks great and if you add accessories to the sides it will look even better.
Kpack
Adventurer
I've been considering the storage box idea. It'll take some fab work that I don't have the capability to do at the moment (no welder). But eventually I'd like to do that. But I'm thinking of mounting a couple of recovery boards to the driver's side. I should have enough room for them there, and they shouldn't be sticking out so should not get snagged on anything. Plus if I have to use them and they get filthy I don't have to spread all that junk to the inside of the bed. I probably will not do any bedliner on the outside. That stuff just collects dirt and never gets clean. I'll likely sand down the factory primer, re-prime, then shoot either dark gray or olive drab to protect the metal. Mounting stuff on the sides will cover most of color anyways.
Not much fun happening with the truck lately. I had to have the driver's rear axle replaced after the accident. All was well until about a month or two ago when I noticed some splatter on the rear of the truck. Turns out the driver's side axle/wheel seal had failed and I was spraying gear oil all over. Not sure how long this had been happening for. I checked the fluid level in the diff and it was fine. I replaced the seal myself, as well as the outer O-ring:
Worked fine for about 3 days, then started leaking again. So, truck goes back to the shop and they can see if there's something wrong with the axle. Can't use the truck much until this is sorted out.
I also need to dig into my cooling system. It's always gotten warm when towing, but the other day it struggled just by itself. Outside temps were 102, going up several long hills at 70 mph the temp climbed to 221-228 each time. Temp gauge hit 3/4 mark. Trans temps got close to 240. Both of those are much higher than I would expect from an unloaded truck. Here's the history of the cooling system:
-Timing belt and water pump replaced ~50k miles ago
-Radiator replaced ~40k miles ago
-Fan clutch replaced (aftermarket) ~40K miles ago
-Coolant (Toyota red) ~40K miles ago
-Head gaskets done ~40K miles ago
Where should I start? Thermostat? Seems to work fine (opens at 184). Coolant flush? No leaks that I can see.