2006 DC Tundra. DD meets ongoing tinkering.
- Thread starter wrenchMonkey_
- Start date
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
I hated how 1/4 or even 1/8 of spacing looked. I don't see it being an issue when the frame/cab/bed flexes. While it does have some practical purpose, its mostly for aesthetics to tie the bumper into the frame sliders and to help round the corners of the bed.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Lazy mans paint booth.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Done.
seanpistol
Explorer
Hey that looks familiar 
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Hey that looks familiar
Hah ya, indeed. Looking back, I'd of probably gone with a full tube bumper now that I have a bender, but, such is life. I am happy with how it turned out. I would of gone with 2x5 instead of 2x6, less overhang that way. Happy with my 3/4 mounts. I ground down about a inch off the front of my hitch mount, had an issue with the length of a friends draw bar not reaching the hole. Looking back I would of gone maybe 1/2 above, welded it up, then ground down flush to the welds.
Thanks!
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Put in a hour on the sliders this afternoon.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Thanks. Bumper turned out great. If I were to do it again I"d probably do a full tube, but such is life. Was thinking about removing the tail gate and doing a swing out. Few ideas from yours.
I came in the house today to look at your sliders again for a reference to see how long you went. I cut my first pipe at 96" but didn't like it, to much rear gap at the wheels. I donated that piece to the mounts and went with 102". Fills in the wheel base much better, but I may cut it down a inch or two. I don't think i want to 45* on the ends of the main tube, but who knows. Do you remember how long you went, or, have more of a side profile picture? I am going from where the door gap meets the front fender (by the front body mount) to the rear flare, just by the front spring hanger.
I am going to weld them on. I'll be using 1/4 plates on the frame for support, with the 2x2x.188 tube for the supports, braced with 1/4 or 3/16 plate.
I came in the house today to look at your sliders again for a reference to see how long you went. I cut my first pipe at 96" but didn't like it, to much rear gap at the wheels. I donated that piece to the mounts and went with 102". Fills in the wheel base much better, but I may cut it down a inch or two. I don't think i want to 45* on the ends of the main tube, but who knows. Do you remember how long you went, or, have more of a side profile picture? I am going from where the door gap meets the front fender (by the front body mount) to the rear flare, just by the front spring hanger.
I am going to weld them on. I'll be using 1/4 plates on the frame for support, with the 2x2x.188 tube for the supports, braced with 1/4 or 3/16 plate.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
Bending tubing has been a new thing for me. Spring back, angles, protractors, good times. A good tight fitup is always important when metal working. Was happy with how the angles came out. I did have to re-bend and add a bit more, 52* after spring back ends up being 45* on my setup. If you look at the last picture in my last post, you can see the difference of how the fitup is. Before and this picture being the after.
Starting to take shape.
Finished up the rear kickout.
Might cut down the end of the kick out tube another inch, I'll have to mock it up and again see how it sits. Angle seems a touch to high looking at the picture. I've cut it down twice already, third time is the charm I guess.
Did some practice with the tubing notcher, trying to get the angle right for blending the kick out to the main tube. Should get a few hours in tomorrow aswell.
Starting to take shape.
Finished up the rear kickout.
Might cut down the end of the kick out tube another inch, I'll have to mock it up and again see how it sits. Angle seems a touch to high looking at the picture. I've cut it down twice already, third time is the charm I guess.
Did some practice with the tubing notcher, trying to get the angle right for blending the kick out to the main tube. Should get a few hours in tomorrow aswell.
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seanpistol
Explorer
Looks good! I did a bunch of research into getting a tube bender and notcher a while back. I couldn't justify the cost personally for how much I'd use it, and was able to find a guy locally that charges me $5 a bend. But, it looks fun to play with! It seems that you should be able to add a hydraulic ram and hook up your air compressor to just about any manual bender.
wrenchMonkey_
Adventurer
I hear ya. I've always wanted one, but as you say, the price was hard to justify. DOM tubing and dimple dies are two things that really add class and that pro look to stuff. Square is sweet, but one can only do so much with it. My buddy whos axles were posted a few pages back is building that Jeep to race King of the Hammers some day and he picked up one from a old co-worker. He got a Pro Tools 105HD and 1.75 and 2in dies for about 50% of retail. Cant complain. Well actually I can. We started using it with a 4' handle. That sucked, especially for the .120 wall stuff. Added another 4 ft pipe and now its much more manageable. However, SWAG's $150 conversion kit is looking pretty sweet. Some day. Its a good workout.
As for the notcher, I was going to drop $400 on the JD2 Notchmaster, but my neighbor, who has a sweet tube chassis drag car in his garage has a notcher that hes gonna let me use for a bit.
I will eventually buy my own, as I like owing my own stuff and hate borrowing other peoples tools. Also, having my own notcher guarantees access to my friends bender whenever I need it!
seanpistol
Explorer
I hear that!
I can't believe what the dies cost. And they are hard to find used!
I can't believe what the dies cost. And they are hard to find used!
GasCan
Observer
Ha Ha! I did the same thing. I got one piece of 1.75 x 1.75 x 96" and a) like you too short and b) 1.75" looked too gimpy for such a long slider.
So I got a 2.0 x 2.0 x 98.5" and upped the wall thickness on the main tube to 3/16. Could have made it a little longer. Everything else is .125 wall. Ended up being 70ish lbs each with the passenger side a touch heavier with the 2" receiver.
Already added some "character" to my kick out on the drivers side on my last trip out to Whipsaw trail in BC
Air Hydraulic ram is the t*ts. Once i got the bender I figured there was no good way for me to use it without the ram. I could have made a mount for the tailer hitch, but in the end just got the SWAG kit and a ram.
Didnt want to drill my floor since I have in-floor heating.
Was told if I wanted to increase my circle of friends in the off road community all I had to do is get a tube bender.
GC
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