2006 DC Tundra. DD meets ongoing tinkering.

W

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
Added some .250 thick gussets to the mounting bars. Should help spread the load up vertically through the fish plate and into the frame.
Fully welded up the second slider and capped the ends. New clamp setup on the MIG worked great.

Tomorrow after noon the truck is heading into the shop for an alignment. I've decided my time is not worth doing a self alignment. My string and jackstands, digital level, measuring tapes ect, while good, cant beat a $50,000 Hunter Alignment Machine. That being said, I want to see where my numbers are at, because my camber is super posiitive and my front tires are roasted. Defiantly want to get that sorted out before I put my studded winters on. Pretty sure my last trip tweaked it.

If I have some time in the evening, I hope to cut the other 3 mounts for the passenger side. Cut and bend the 4 fish plates I'll need to weld onto the frame and maybe if I have time, work on the two rear kickout mounts and then weld them on. The angle is pretty strange, about 40 degrees back and 10 degrees down, so I wanted to wait to get everything else done first.

I hope to have them painted and welded on by Sunday.

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T

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
those look great! just keep in mind that just because its 1/4 gusset doesn't mean its always going to be stronger.. a gusset is only as strong as the metal its welded to.. so in this case your frame.. most people over kill the frame plates.. which i think you did if i remembered correctly it was .250 material.. unless you did some rosette welds in the frame plates, you can and most likely will pull them right off if hit hard enough.. (i just looked back and saw you wrapped them under neath the frame which helps alot)in this instance all your metal is thicker then the frame so something will give out first.. having your frame be the weak link is not a good choice. in most cases for sliders, nothing needs to be more then 3/16... and 120 wall.. i normally plate all my frames with either .120 or .180 material and i only use .180 if its boxed frame and i have support on the other side or im adding alot more to the frame with link pockets or something..... the rosettes should be placed around the point of impact.. to greatly increase your weld area. with that said i would run what you have already just keep an eye on the frame..
Blaaaahhhhhhhh
 
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T

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
p.s. you do great work for just starting out! if you ever need any pointers on bending or anything feel free to hit me up!


Blaaaahhhhhhhh
 
W

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
Today I spent a few hours working on the sliders, after finishing off one side completely, I went to hook the battery up again to pull the truck out of the garage and back it in so I could start on the passenger side.
Well, OCD got the best of me, and I did something I've been wanting to do for a while. Ripped out all my battery posts and installed new connectors and the mil style terminals I had.

After cutting the old cables off, pulling the battery out and the battery tray, I put a piece of 1/4 steel on the stamped battery base area so I could use my terminal crimper with out deforming the base. Ask me how I learned that? Haha.
20161105_144311.jpg


After crimping, using two clamps to hold the cable in the correct way, heat it up and put the solder in. I pre-fluxed the copper terminal and the bare wire before crimping.
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Replaced the stock ground cable from the battery to the chassis.
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And the final product. Everything was crimped and soldered and all connections were heatshrunk. The OEM red battery terminal cover still even works on the posts! Ordering a Blue Sea 5025 fuse block so I can wire up my LED bar, under hood lights and soon to come air compressor.
20161105_184601.jpg


For 2 hours of my time, I am happy.
 
toyotech

toyotech

Expedition Leader
I been thinking of switching to mil terminals but I haven't had any issues with my factory terminals.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
seanpistol

seanpistol

Explorer
3 ply sidewall or na? My 315/75r16s are 3 ply sidewall when most if not all other sizes are 2 ply, which is about the only negative thing you'd find about these tires. I love them.
 
W

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
seanpistol said:
3 ply sidewall or na? My 315/75r16s are 3 ply sidewall when most if not all other sizes are 2 ply, which is about the only negative thing you'd find about these tires. I love them.
Click to expand...


2 Ply, Load Range D. I've hunted for 3 ply and E rated tires before, but I've never had an issue so far..... that being said.... this was a deal I could not pass up.

5 x 80% tires. They all have 13-15/32. New is 18/32 of tread.
1 x NEW

So, 6 tires, which is awesome. I'll probably mount the 5 used ones and maybe sell the new one.
How much? $800 CAD. That's $600 USD. Which works out to $100 per tire. Picked one up today, going to get the other 5 tomorrow after he un-mounts two of them off rims.
 
marathonracer

marathonracer

Adventurer
So...its chop chop time then I assume. Love durtracs, I run both studded and regular on my work truck. Absolutely awesome in the snow. Everyone talks about the sidewall being weak but I've never had a problem even driving over slash piles and up old winter roads full of logging debris. I've cut a few open but on shale roads right after they were graded (I haven't found a tire yet that's immune to that...even bias ply TSLs)
 
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