2007 FG cruise control project.

[pugslyyy]

After going for a drive today with the oscilloscope on the center console, I'm having to rethink how to deal with such a low frequency signal off of the VSS. Everything else is working out, and if the VSS is too much of an issue I'll look at tapping the engine rpms instead.


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[boostin]

You could always add a vss. I seen aftermarket kits where you add magnets to a drive shaft

 

[DzlToy]

Since you want to maintain a certain RPM, as opposed to a certain speed, something like this could work, albeit with another switching mechanism, since there is not an OEM cruise stalk:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ZHgB_4Aq8&hd=1

 

[mog]

Since you want to maintain a certain RPM

How about something to bypass the upper rpm limit on the idle adjustment circuit, since with already have a rotary switch (I'm guessing a potentiometer?) for that?

 

[pugslyyy]

You could always add a vss. I seen aftermarket kits where you add magnets to a drive shaft

I really don't want to add anything additional other than the box - should be plug-and-play otherwise. The good news is I think I've figured out how to deal with the low frequency of the VSS.

Since you want to maintain a certain RPM, as opposed to a certain speed, something like this could work, albeit with another switching mechanism, since there is not an OEM cruise stalk:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ZHgB_4Aq8&hd=1

I've done a lot of research into control theory and think I have the approach. I have the PID (proportional-integrative-derivative) circuit programmed, but will need to dial in the constants once I get it out on the road.

My main issue right not is just convincing the ECU that "all is well". I encountered an issue with the throttle pedal switch that made it more complicated than I though it was going to be, but I have a path forward.

How about something to bypass the upper rpm limit on the idle adjustment circuit, since with already have a rotary switch (I'm guessing a potentiometer?) for that?

The idle adjustment circuit is useful for many things (like warming up the motor, or a hill start), but not so good for full throttle applications. I'm actually already thinking about an autonomous remote start routine that will start, idle up, engage the exhaust brake, and the idle down once the exhaust brake disengages.

Obviously this is a Phase II project, want to get the cruise routines working first - but a remote start on a cold morning would not go amiss!

 

[pugslyyy]

It's been a few days since I posted, so here's an update.

1. The Fuso service manual is wrong in a few places and conflicts itself in others.

2. I had hoped not to have to drive a 12V output with logic, but the actual circuit requires it even though the theoretical (based on the manual) did not.

3. I ordered test PCBs a few days ago and they are almost through fab now (86% complete). If all goes well that means I will get them sometime end of next week. I don't expect them to be 100% what I need, but pretty close.

4. In the meantime, I have got wireless remote lock with window up, and remote start implemented from a key fob. My dash still looks like it exploded, but I got the door panels back on. I'll likely not put the dash back together until I get the cruise in.

I was considering adding a remote start switch for the Fuso in the camper, but once I started looking at it I decided it made more sense to just do a wireless system - more flexibility, and it incorporates all the necessary logic (don't start if in gear, don't start if already running, etc). I'm also going to enjoy being able to lock/unlock from the keyfob like a (normal) modern vehicle.

The remote start/run rides on top of the current system - if it malfunctions it doesn't impact normal operation. The remote window up is necessarily inline, so if I have a problem with it I would need to jumper past it - but it is "just" the windows.

I've been very, very pleased with the remote start / remote lock implementation. My FG has power door locks - but only from a switch on the dashboard. I had been wanting to add a remote for a while - the power actuators (all the complicated stuff) is already there. I honestly don't understand why they didn't include a remote on this from the get go.

Another surprise - all the wiring is in place for heated mirrors. Just need to add the switch, relay, and heaters - but the harness supports it. Also means that there are a couple of extra high power wires running from the fuse box to the doors if you need them for something else.

 

[boostin]

It's been a few days since I posted, so here's an update.

1. The Fuso service manual is wrong in a few places and conflicts itself in others.

2. I had hoped not to have to drive a 12V output with logic, but the actual circuit requires it even though the theoretical (based on the manual) did not.

3. I ordered test PCBs a few days ago and they are almost through fab now (86% complete). If all goes well that means I will get them sometime end of next week. I don't expect them to be 100% what I need, but pretty close.

4. In the meantime, I have got wireless remote lock with window up, and remote start implemented from a key fob. My dash still looks like it exploded, but I got the door panels back on. I'll likely not put the dash back together until I get the cruise in.

I was considering adding a remote start switch for the Fuso in the camper, but once I started looking at it I decided it made more sense to just do a wireless system - more flexibility, and it incorporates all the necessary logic (don't start if in gear, don't start if already running, etc). I'm also going to enjoy being able to lock/unlock from the keyfob like a (normal) modern vehicle.

The remote start/run rides on top of the current system - if it malfunctions it doesn't impact normal operation. The remote window up is necessarily inline, so if I have a problem with it I would need to jumper past it - but it is "just" the windows.

I've been very, very pleased with the remote start / remote lock implementation. My FG has power door locks - but only from a switch on the dashboard. I had been wanting to add a remote for a while - the power actuators (all the complicated stuff) is already there. I honestly don't understand why they didn't include a remote on this from the get go.

Another surprise - all the wiring is in place for heated mirrors. Just need to add the switch, relay, and heaters - but the harness supports it. Also means that there are a couple of extra high power wires running from the fuse box to the doors if you need them for something else.

What's the chance you could do a instructive write up on the remote entry?

 

[pugslyyy]

What's the chance you could do a instructive write up on the remote entry?

I used an Avital 4103LX, but almost any product will work - there is nothing complex or tricky about it, 4 wires and you are done.

In order of complexity:
HARDEST - window up (because you have to take the doors and dash apart, and run wires between the dash and doors in addition to fitting the control unit)
HARD - remote start (because you have to take the dash apart and there is quite a lot of heavy gauge wiring that needs to be done competently)
EASY - keyless entry (because almost everything you need is already there)

Keyless entry on a Fuso with central locking (lock/unlock toggle switch on the dash) turns out be be stupidly easy. I'm writing this from the perspective of US (LHD).

1. Go on amazon or ebay and pick a system with a price you like and remotes that you find attractive. I paid $43 for mine and it included remote start, etc.
2. Pop the dash central locking switch out and access the wires on the back of it. Splice the keyless "unlock" wire to the Red with Green stripe wire and splice the keyless "lock" wire to the Yellow wire. If you don't have enough slack you can pull the wire down through the dash and work on it hanging down in the footwell and then feed it back up again.
3. Connect the keyless entry box ground wire somewhere (I used the main ground in front of the ECU).
4. Connect the keyless entry box power wire somewhere (I used the main battery line to the mid-dash fuse box.
5. connect/route the antenna wire.
6. press the button on the remote. done.

If you don't want to take the passenger side dash panels off, you can splice power from the accessory connector on the firewall very close to the driver's left foot.

I am not a fan of the cheapo taps for splicing in to automotive circuits - I cut the wire and crimp in heatshrink butt connectors. Because I do a lot of electrical work I have one of the ratcheting crimping tools that gives very repeatable results without breaking the butt connector insulation, but that's certainly not necessary.

Butt connectors, heat gun, and crimper are all cheaply available from Harbor Freight and are of reasonable quality.

 

[pugslyyy]

PCBs arrived via DHL today, 1 week from placing the order to receiving finished boards!

 

[boostin]

Oh man so excited about this, I am so interested but mine being auto I dint know how compatible it is

 

[pugslyyy]

Oh man so excited about this, I am so interested but mine being auto I dint know how compatible it is

Only difference with the auto is it should work better because it will be able to run through the gears. I'm locked into whatever gear I engage it in because touching the clutch will disengaged it.

 

[westyss]

What's the chance you could do a instructive write up on the remote entry?

I might be way out of line here but isnt it easier to just go get a pro outfit to install an alarm/keyless entry system? I cant remember the exact cost but I had a clifford alarm with remote door lock installed professionally for around $300, came with two fobs, sensor on the camper door and ignition cut off. Fob works from half a mile away and took an afternoon to install, seems like money well spent, no?
I am not too brilliant at electronics so wouldn't tackel something like this anyway but for that little money seems like an easy decision for me.

 

[pugslyyy]

I might be way out of line here but isnt it easier to just go get a pro outfit to install an alarm/keyless entry system? I cant remember the exact cost but I had a clifford alarm with remote door lock installed professionally for around $300, came with two fobs, sensor on the camper door and ignition cut off. Fob works from half a mile away and took an afternoon to install, seems like money well spent, no?
I am not too brilliant at electronics so wouldn't tackel something like this anyway but for that little money seems like an easy decision for me.

I agree. $300 is a reasonable cost for an installed system - like a lot of my projects, the reason I did it myself was because I wanted to.

The hardware cost for a system like you describe is under $50, and $250 labor would be about right for the time to do a simple system (without window control, etc)

 

[boostin]

I agree. $300 is a reasonable cost for an installed system - like a lot of my projects, the reason I did it myself was because I wanted to.

The hardware cost for a system like you describe is under $50, and $250 labor would be about right for the time to do a simple system (without window control, etc)

I would do it my self cause I have a hard time trusting others. Some times these "profesionals" do more harm then good.

But if electrical is not your cup if tea might not be a bad idea leaving it to some one with more experience

 

[pugslyyy]

I would do it my self cause I have a hard time trusting others. Some times these "profesionals" do more harm then good.

But if electrical is not your cup if tea might not be a bad idea leaving it to some one with more experience

A lot of the time installers like to use the crimp on insulation displacement tap connectors.

They are easy and cheap, but not the best solution for a reliable connection especially down rough roads.

I like knowing that I did the connections myself with thermal set heat shrink butt connectors using a proper crimper not just a pair of pliers.