2007 FG cruise control project.

boostin

Adventurer
A lot of the time installers like to use the crimp on insulation displacement tap connectors.

5602.gif


They are easy and cheap, but not the best solution for a reliable connection especially down rough roads.

I like knowing that I did the connections myself with thermal set heat shrink butt connectors using a proper crimper not just a pair of pliers.

crimp-install.gif

Completly agree
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
If I can chime in here...
When it comes to splicing into any of my truck's OEM wiring I am very particular about how I do it. My goal when doing such a job is that I do it in such a way that I can do it once and forget about it.
To that end, I cut the loom wire and bare about 8-10mm at each end, slip on a short length of glue lined heat shrink, bare the wire that will be joined to the loom wire (about 20mm). I then twist that over the two cut ends of the OEM wire, ensuring that I maintain the original length of the OEM wire (makes it easier and neater if you have to re-wrap the loom with tape). To finish up, the wires are soldered together then I slide the heat shrink over the joint and use a heat gun to finish the job.

This is a much more tedious and time consuming way of doing the splice, compared to using crimp connectors, but I have never had one of these joints fail on me, which is the reason I continue to do it this way.
Don't get me wrong here, I do not think that using good crimp connectors is bad, I just prefer to have soldered joints in this type of splice. Each to their own, I guess... :)
 

boostin

Adventurer
If I can chime in here...
When it comes to splicing into any of my truck's OEM wiring I am very particular about how I do it. My goal when doing such a job is that I do it in such a way that I can do it once and forget about it.
To that end, I cut the loom wire and bare about 8-10mm at each end, slip on a short length of glue lined heat shrink, bare the wire that will be joined to the loom wire (about 20mm). I then twist that over the two cut ends of the OEM wire, ensuring that I maintain the original length of the OEM wire (makes it easier and neater if you have to re-wrap the loom with tape). To finish up, the wires are soldered together then I slide the heat shrink over the joint and use a heat gun to finish the job.

This is a much more tedious and time consuming way of doing the splice, compared to using crimp connectors, but I have never had one of these joints fail on me, which is the reason I continue to do it this way.
Don't get me wrong here, I do not think that using good crimp connectors is bad, I just prefer to have soldered joints in this type of splice. Each to their own, I guess... :)

I agree as long as you s good solderer. I actually use non insulated connectors and adhesive lined shrink tube.

Problem is with soldering some people are terrible at it, when I worked at Nissan they said people's skills where to inconsistent and only coming was allowed
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
It's like anything, I guess. Some people have decent skills and others don't.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I have to say that every time I go to an RV show I look at the "quality" of the electrical work in the commercial offerings. I'd have to say, for the most part they are less than ideal, and some are just plain crap.
I am also a firm believer that good tools definitely assist with doing a good job. I have about 15 different sets of crimping pliers, all of which are designed for specific crimp connectors.
In my opinion, that "one size fits all" logic definitely needs to be forgotten when it comes to doing electrical connections.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Okay, the first iteration of my cruise control PCB was a learning experience (as 1st gen prototypes usually are). There were several layout errors that I made that were inconvenient but workable, but for some reason the layout software combined 2 of the nets - which effectively shorted one of the signal paths to ground. I'm sure that it was my error - but I'm still not sure what I did to cause that particular one to happen.

Anyway, I've made the necessary changes and ordered my v0.5 boards. I have enough parts to build up another board, so now it's just the waiting game again.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
I build quite a bit of custom stuff for people and what I learned a long time ago is that people who normally buy products "off the shelf" often have no real concept of how much time and effort is involved in making one off designs.
I have been following this cruse control project of yours with great interest. Sadly, my electronics skills are virtually non existent, so I am unable to develop/build projects like this myself. Sigh....
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I build quite a bit of custom stuff for people and what I learned a long time ago is that people who normally buy products "off the shelf" often have no real concept of how much time and effort is involved in making one off designs.
I have been following this cruse control project of yours with great interest. Sadly, my electronics skills are virtually non existent, so I am unable to develop/build projects like this myself. Sigh....

We all have our hobbies (i.e. work that we like to do but can't make any money at). I got away from the hands on stuff for a while but have now found my way back to it - careerwise I ended up in management running big teams / organizations - which meant that I lived in meetings all day every day. Ugh. Turns out that I like making **** a lot more than sitting in meetings - go figure.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
This is the v0.4 PCB (so no good), but I did get two control head enclosures 3D printed and test fit.

12193041_10102943437544479_990907761_o.jpg
 

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