2012 Range Rover HSE Build/ Travel Write Up
- Thread starter Colorofkris
- Start date
Colorofkris
Well-known member
Colorofkris
Well-known member
Injectors came out surprisingly unscathed. They definitely need to be cleaned up though. I’m now just waiting for the new valve cover to come in and the new seals for the injectors. (Should be any day now)
To get to the last injector I had to remove the plastic filter piece that runs from the center of the hood as well as the plastic around the battery tray.
All that being said I’m really looking forward to getting it back on the road!
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To get to the last injector I had to remove the plastic filter piece that runs from the center of the hood as well as the plastic around the battery tray.
All that being said I’m really looking forward to getting it back on the road!
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Colorofkris
Well-known member
Colorofkris
Well-known member
No I’m going to hit them with some carb cleaner, I’ve got new seals already in with the new tool to install them. I don’t have the time/ money to send them out right now. I’m going to look into replacing all 8 injectors at the 200k mile mark anyways. Also depending on how the timing chains look when I pop the valve cover off will determine if it going to even keep the range Rover.
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Colorofkris
Well-known member
Colorofkris
Well-known member
Valve Cover Update-
Finally got the new cover in. I went with the genuine Land Rover cover. Opened up the box and found 2 of the fasteners missing which was awesome. Anyways, I was able to get the old valve cover off.
Checked the timing chains while the cover was off and there is hardly any play at all in the chains which is a huge relief.
Also cleaned up the injectors. Still need to remove the software and reinstall the new software.
Here’s were the fun begins. I found the torque pattern and spec finally, Pic posted below. Turns out that 13 nm is not the correct torque spec, snapped the first bolt! Hurray! No problem, I’ll use and old fastener and just drill and easy out the broken bolt….and then the east out broke off inside the bolt. I really don’t understand why everything has to be so ridiculously difficult on this thing.
So that’s where I am at, frustrated, stuck, and in a constant state of regret buying this thing. I’m going to head to the store and pick up some grinder bits to hopefully grind out the easy out, then re drill the broken bolt and try a different easy to get it out. Looks like I’ll be picking back up Saturday.
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Finally got the new cover in. I went with the genuine Land Rover cover. Opened up the box and found 2 of the fasteners missing which was awesome. Anyways, I was able to get the old valve cover off.
Checked the timing chains while the cover was off and there is hardly any play at all in the chains which is a huge relief.
Also cleaned up the injectors. Still need to remove the software and reinstall the new software.
Here’s were the fun begins. I found the torque pattern and spec finally, Pic posted below. Turns out that 13 nm is not the correct torque spec, snapped the first bolt! Hurray! No problem, I’ll use and old fastener and just drill and easy out the broken bolt….and then the east out broke off inside the bolt. I really don’t understand why everything has to be so ridiculously difficult on this thing.
So that’s where I am at, frustrated, stuck, and in a constant state of regret buying this thing. I’m going to head to the store and pick up some grinder bits to hopefully grind out the easy out, then re drill the broken bolt and try a different easy to get it out. Looks like I’ll be picking back up Saturday.
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gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
You may have to re-drill and tap that hole, I’d check your torque wrench also. According to an online calculator, 13 nM is only 9.5 ft-lbs, I’d have assumed a bolt with a 10mm head would have a torque spec of 10-12 ft lbs. I wouldn’t expect that bolt to break under 25-30 ft-lbs of torque, you might be lucky it didn’t strip the block if the wrench was bad. There are always heli-coils.
I curse the layout of my wife and I’s cars every time I work on them, both have the AJV8’s, which were never designed to fit in there. 3 bolts to remove a part, two come out easy as can be, third one hits the driveshaft backed out halfway. Price to pay for a LR with a reliable engine is what I tell myself…
I curse the layout of my wife and I’s cars every time I work on them, both have the AJV8’s, which were never designed to fit in there. 3 bolts to remove a part, two come out easy as can be, third one hits the driveshaft backed out halfway. Price to pay for a LR with a reliable engine is what I tell myself…
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Colorofkris
Well-known member
Luckily I don’t think it stripped the block. What’s making it difficult is that the east out broke, if it wasn’t for that I don’t think this would be that big of an issue.
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gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
There’s always a welder
Colorofkris
Well-known member
That sounds awful lol. I’m hoping it doesn’t get to that point. I’m working on drilling out the broken bolt now and I’m just about there. By the looks of it I’m going to have to go the helicoil route
. Because of the broken east the drill didn’t center and walked a bit weird. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
J!m
Active member
Get a set of left handed drill bits. Use these to drill for the extractor, as the heat and counter-rotation from drilling are often enough to not need the extractor.
And if you break a lot of extractors, you might consider a couple carbide drill bits.
These are a few good videos on broken bolt extraction on YouTube. A lot of old-school techniques documented for future generations.
And if you break a lot of extractors, you might consider a couple carbide drill bits.
These are a few good videos on broken bolt extraction on YouTube. A lot of old-school techniques documented for future generations.