2013 canter 3c13 limp mode FIXED

Stuartm

Member
Mercedes roadside came to the garage with start diagnostics .
The fuel pump regulator doesn't work when fitted to the pump .
When the wiring connection is took off the regulator & put on the old one ( not fitted ) it works perfectly .
It's got a new battery , the voltage when running using the engine as a ground is 15.6v
Mercedes thinks the ECU is at fault ( I'm not so sure )
I sent the ECU away to England to get fixed but there diagnostics wouldn't work .
I've now sent it away again to a company that has the same ECU ( part number ) they plan on transfering all my date on to theirs ( £720 ) they said if that doesn't fix my truck I send it bk & they'll refund £600 & send my old ECU back , a new ECU is £3200 .
I'll post an update soon , I'm slowly sinking not being able to work ☹️
 

Stuartm

Member
As an electrician, I can say without a doubt you have gremlins, and they're absolutely a poison to your happiness.

General troubleshooting methods and procedures can be helpful here. Start at a point that can be traced. For instance, take both your batteries and have them checked. Afterwards run continuity (ohm) checks through your positive and negative wires and record their resistance readings.
Then take alternator, have it checked. Check voltage regulator at this time.

You have too many small issues for each thing to be it's own problem. ECU's require seeing a specific voltage to operate correctly and I think your charge system is the fault here.
It's also not healthy to keep all of the egr equipment if you don't have to. Depending on your mileage that can be hindering engine performance, which will only exacerbate voltage drop issues when components don't recieve what they need.
Something that baffled me - when I took all the grounds off the chassis ( about 10 of them at the same place ) I'm getting between 8v - 10v when I put the tester on the grounds one at a time between chassis - ground wire
 

Stuartm

Member
That's my truck finally fixed , a company that had a 2nd hand ECU swopped all the data from my ECU to theirs .
As soon as I fitted it at the garage the truck started as it should with the fuel pump regulator connected as it should be .
Still no Speedo & after a few mins limp mode again , straight bk to the garage & fitted the new speed sensor I got a while ago & got the fault codes cleared .
I've done about 20 miles & the truck has been running fine & the Speedo works as it should .
Thank you to everyone that gave me advice on here .
Stuart
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Not a common thing for an ECU to fail, but at the end of the day... it's just a computer.
As I eluded to earlier in this thread, a faulty ECU could be the issue.
This is quite rare, but given the amount of issues you were experiencing I definitely thought that this could be your problem.

I can only imagine how frustrating this entire process has been, not to mention how much it has cost you.
Hopefully now that you have replaced the ECU your problems will finally be resolved. :)
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Can you just swap in an ECU from another truck or does the data swap have to be done for it to work?
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
As far as I know, the data in the ECU has to match your exact model of vehicle.
If it doesn't, it couldn't monitor all of the sensors and control systems correctly.
 

Stuartm

Member
As I eluded to earlier in this thread, a faulty ECU could be the issue.
This is quite rare, but given the amount of issues you were experiencing I definitely thought that this could be your problem.

I can only imagine how frustrating this entire process has been, not to mention how much it has cost you.
Hopefully now that you have replaced the ECU your problems will finally be resolved. :)
Yes I'm glad it's going , I just need to sort the exhaust brake , the silonoid in it works ok but the flap isn't moving , I'll take it off & Chech it before I order another
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
An ECU is basically just a ruggedized computer.
To swap out a vehicle ECU you need the correct firmware and software to be installed on a compatible ECU, then you add all of the vehicle specific data, like the VIN, odometer reading etc
This task is something that can only be done by someone that has the appropriate programming hardware/software.
 

Stuartm

Member
An ECU is basically just a ruggedized computer.
To swap out a vehicle ECU you need the correct firmware and software to be installed on a compatible ECU, then you add all of the vehicle specific data, like the VIN, odometer reading etc
This task is something that can only be done by someone that has the appropriate programming hardware/software.
It didn't cross my mind about the odometer , that must of been set as it's the same , lots of their ECUs are much cheaper but they'll know mine is quite rare .
 

Stuartm

Member
I think there's possibly been a problem with my ECU for a long time , in the 3 years I've owned it I've done a parked regen every 7 - 10 days about 150 miles when there's 4 notches on the gauge .
The mechanic from mercedes said it should be more like every 2000 miles & there must be a problem somewhere which I suppose could be in the ECU - the engine getting the wrong mixture
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Anyone know if earlier ECU’s require specific programming? I’ve got a 99 FG and the ecu must do far fewer things than in newer trucks.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
Anyone know if earlier ECU’s require specific programming?
All ECUs require specific programming; some just have more functionality than others.

I don't know what the Fuso ECUs do in earlier model trucks (pre FG84/FG140), but it's not a lot.
I think some of the earlier models were fly by wire. If so, the ECU would be used for that.
It should be noted, those earlier trucks also have a separate controller for the fuel system.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Mine is drive by wire. The transmission control module in my 1993 GMC is just plug and play. Nothing specific to an individual truck. I’m wondering if early FG’s ECM’s were similar. I know they get intake pressure and intake air temp signals plus the drive by wire and probably engine temp but I can’t think of much else
 

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