2013 canter 3c13 limp mode FIXED
- Thread starter Stuartm
- Start date
Thanks , I'll check the wiring today , I think the electrical fault could also be in the injectors but I'll check the wiring to
Thanks for your help , I'll have a look on Facebook , I'd looked before but only searched mitsubishi canter
That's a auto electrician been , when I phoned I was told he had mercedes diagnostics .
It turned out he didn't , although his computer did connect .
I took the wire of the injector that wasn't working & got a good look at them & retwisted them & connected them back up & my truck was running on all 4 cylinders but the engine was still cutting out .
After 4 hours today the electrician gave in ! 2 hour in to him working on it the immobiliser light came on & won't go off so now my truck is even worse off !
It turned out he didn't , although his computer did connect .
I took the wire of the injector that wasn't working & got a good look at them & retwisted them & connected them back up & my truck was running on all 4 cylinders but the engine was still cutting out .
After 4 hours today the electrician gave in ! 2 hour in to him working on it the immobiliser light came on & won't go off so now my truck is even worse off !
I managed to get the immobiliser off , the auto electrician unplugged a connection & never plugged it back in !
I got my truck in to a commercial garage today .
My truck now will only start - run when the fuel pressure regulator is disconnected .
I'm starting to think the ECU has a bad ground , hopefully the garage will work out what's up .
I got my truck in to a commercial garage today .
My truck now will only start - run when the fuel pressure regulator is disconnected .
I'm starting to think the ECU has a bad ground , hopefully the garage will work out what's up .
I managed to get the truck to a commercial garage .
The truck will only start - drive when the fuel regulator is disconnected .
At idle the truck has low fuel pressure , I've seen the fuel pressure above idle say 1500 rpm & the pressure at the high pressure pump stays the same as at the common rail when at different rpm's .
The garage checked the injectors & there ok .
The low pressure fuel pump is also ok .
They want to check a sensor on the common rail ( low pressure sensor I think )
They said it might be the high pressure fuel pump but aren't completely sure & are really nervous about changing it incase it's ok .
The mechanic looked on a forum & found someone else had a canter that wouldn't start when the fuel pump regulator was plugged in .
I suppose there's still a chance it may be the ECU although the garage says it's really rare for a ECU to break .
I've had the truck for 3 years & have really done anything to it apart from the grease points & oil & filters .
If the fuel pump works at higher revs you'd of thought it would be ok at lower revs .
If it starts with the fuel regulator unplugged the fuel pump must be working I think .
Maybe it is the low fuel pressure sensor at fault .
It's doing my head in , I've not been able to work for ages now
If the fuel pump works at higher revs you'd of thought it would be ok at lower revs .
If it starts with the fuel regulator unplugged the fuel pump must be working I think .
Maybe it is the low fuel pressure sensor at fault .
It's doing my head in , I've not been able to work for ages now
Hi Lou , do you have a diagram for the ECU ? My email is stuartthurs@hotmail.com thanks
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As an electrician, I can say without a doubt you have gremlins, and they're absolutely a poison to your happiness.
General troubleshooting methods and procedures can be helpful here. Start at a point that can be traced. For instance, take both your batteries and have them checked. Afterwards run continuity (ohm) checks through your positive and negative wires and record their resistance readings.
Then take alternator, have it checked. Check voltage regulator at this time.
You have too many small issues for each thing to be it's own problem. ECU's require seeing a specific voltage to operate correctly and I think your charge system is the fault here.
It's also not healthy to keep all of the egr equipment if you don't have to. Depending on your mileage that can be hindering engine performance, which will only exacerbate voltage drop issues when components don't recieve what they need.
General troubleshooting methods and procedures can be helpful here. Start at a point that can be traced. For instance, take both your batteries and have them checked. Afterwards run continuity (ohm) checks through your positive and negative wires and record their resistance readings.
Then take alternator, have it checked. Check voltage regulator at this time.
You have too many small issues for each thing to be it's own problem. ECU's require seeing a specific voltage to operate correctly and I think your charge system is the fault here.
It's also not healthy to keep all of the egr equipment if you don't have to. Depending on your mileage that can be hindering engine performance, which will only exacerbate voltage drop issues when components don't recieve what they need.
