2013 Toyota 4Runner, Equipt Edition Build

mlmeans

Adventurer
I've read through this build about 4 times now. Always enjoy it. My dilemma is I'm
Building a 2015 gmc sierra 1500 and want to upgrade suspension to handle more and for dependability. Like you rebuild is difficult as I have kids etc who are more interested in getting out than maintenace ;).... Icon is pricey... Any suggestions? My internet search turns up ome does t make gmc suspension...

Any suggestions appreciated.



It's really a matter matter of what you're willing to spend and how much you value having a high performance suspension versus just having the clearance and weight handling ability of a basic suspension lift. OME is significantly cheaper and designed more as a basic offroad-oriented setup. Icon uses an adjustable, rebuild able full coilover setup with digressive valving, and yes, it is as superior setup (as it should be as it is much more expensive). OME does the job fine but lacks adjustability, rebuildability, and the valving of the Icons. I've driven ridden in OME equipped trucks but have chosen to run Icon stuff on my own 2010 4runner for the past ~60k miles with no regrets.


My blog: www.4funr.com
 

mlmeans

Adventurer
Paul which hema app did you download? I see hema on apple App Store for Australia and New Zealand but not USA?



Communications and Navigation

One of the components of the electrical upgrade was the expansion of the communications and navigation systems for the truck. Remote travel, by it's very nature, takes us further away from the the things we take for granted in rural and urban surroundings. So to stay a little more in touch, and have a better clue where I am, I have added a couple things.

Mobile/Data Amplifier

Cell coverage is always a concern for me. Traveling as much as I do, I end up in a lot of places where coverage is minimal at best. To help out with this, I have installed a Wilson Electronics Sleek 4G amplifier. It is designed specifically for my Verizon band range, but models for most all providers are available. It is designed as a pancake amp, which means the phone has to sit in the cradle with the back "pancaked" to the face of the amp. I have a spiffy cup holder mount that is very solid, and also hardwired in the power cable so it doesn't take up one of the USB power sources in the dash. I also upgraded the antenna to to the unit, which greatly improves the data connection. From my experience with the amp so far, it has greatly improved my range of connection. Where I get perhaps one bar on the phone outside the truck, I am getting between 3 and 5 bars with the phone in the cradle. In places with no data at all, I am able to run 3G connection. Results vary dramatically, but I think it a great product and I wish I would have gotten one a long time ago.

View attachment 230486View attachment 230485View attachment 230484

Navigation

I bought the 4Runner TE with the navigation option in it. It works pretty well, as long as you are on roads big enough for it to have in it's data base. Often, I am staring at a blank yellow field with an arrow floating in the middle of it. Not cool. The solution I chose was to install HEMA maps software on my iPad2. It is a great software set, allowing you to download a manner of mapping for just about anywhere. The iPad is mounted to the windshield by a Ram Mount suction cup mount with an extension. I have it laying on the dash on a flat rubber mat and the tablet holder is resting on a couple foam dots on the dash to keep in from bouncing around. Though it is front and center in the dash, it doesn't create much more blind spot. Perhaps an inch or 2 higher than the hood at long range. GPS signal is provided by a Dual XGPS150 bluetooth receiver. It sits on the dash and provides current information straight to the iPad. All in all, it is a great solution for my needs.

View attachment 230489View attachment 230488View attachment 230487

I feel much more in touch with the outside world now. So far it has worked out great.

Cheers,
 

louxwe

New member
I have a question on the installation of the dual battery system. I also have the 2013 Trail edition and it has a regular 110 plug in the center console and also in the rear interior of the vehicle along with a cig lighter power at each location too. Assuming I set up the system exactly as you have what happens to those plugs when the solenoid isolates the starting battery? What I am wanting to be able to do is pull into camp, park and then use those plugs for a prolonged time but have them draw power from the secondary battery, but can this be done? I am assuming that those plugs are hardwired into the car wiring harness and then connected to the primary original starting battery, but when the solenoid isolates this battery how will power be provided to those plugs? Just want to make sure you wouldn't have to rewire all of those plugs? I guess this also would go for all of the other prewired car accessories, radio, lights, etc. When the solenoid isolates the primary battery how does it continue to give the originally wired equipment power since they are all originally wired to the primary battery?

How has this set up worked for you so far since I have the same vehicle, also did you install a compressor and if so what location?

Thanks, Bill Do you guys do install work too?


National Luna Dual Battery System

Battery Tray

Our next step in the truck build is the installation of a dual battery system. National Luna is our choice. It is very simple to install, is automated, and provides monitoring and contact control inside the cab of our 4Runner. The trick of the install was the mounting of the second battery. In the 2013 model, there is a large space behind the air intake on the passenger side. There were a couple wiring harness items that we could easily move aside, leaving us plenty of room for a battery. The main obstacle was that this area had the slope of the rear of the wheel well, and a couple OEM threaded studs to contend with. We used the mounting locations to our advantage by fabricating a bracket to mount to these. We added a spacer block under the interior end of the bracket to help support the weight of the battery. Here are a couple photos.

View attachment 159945View attachment 159946

Next we mounted a battery tray to the bracket. It is a Group 31 sized tray, though we didn't install that big a battery. More on that in a minute. Here is the tray in place, and the battery.

View attachment 159947View attachment 159944

Battery Choice

There are plenty of batteries to choose from out there. The goal with a secondary battery is to store as large an amp hour rating as you can in the space you have. The higher the amp hour rating, the longer your system can go without requiring a charge. Another factor to consider is charge rate, or how long it takes a battery to recoup their discharge. And then, of course, is price. Always a factor. We chose to use the Sears Die Hard Platimum Series battery in a Group 65 size. The Platinum series is made for Sears by Odyssey, so we know it is made well. It is warrantied by Sears, so available most anywhere if there is an issue. It carries a very high amp hour rating for it's size, and recharges quickly. Perfect for our use. We chose the Group 65 size because it offered 75 amp hours for a little bit larger frame than the Group 34. 50% more capacity, actually. And it fit in our location very well. The Group 31 would have fit, but I was quite concerned with the weight of that size battery. It was considerably more than the Group 65. I think we struck the right balance between size/capacity/weight.

National Luna Intelligent Solenoid

We mounted the National Luna Intelligent Solenoid (IS) to a steel bracket we fabricated, then mounted the bracket in a nice clear location on the driver's side fender wall using a couple existing threaded holes. We wired the IS according the National Luna's recommendations, connecting positives first, negatives second, and the 12 gauge control wire last. Connecting the control wire got us the requisite single flash from the IS circuit board light, and we knew we were good to go. Next to the IS, we installed a 6 circuit Blue Sea fuse block. It too was mounted to a steel bracket and then mounted to the driver's side fender well. The fuse block how allows us to properly manage the secondary battery by circuiting each draw individually. Our first circuit - Fridge outlet. More on that soon.

View attachment 159949View attachment 159948

National Luna Dual Battery Controller

The final piece of the puzzle is to attach the National Luna Dual Battery Controller (DBC). We ran the control cable through the firewall, and routed it through the center console. A small hole was created to access the center console, and the DBC was connected. The vast majority of the time, I don't watch the battery charging. It is automated and out of mind. So storing this monitor in the center console makes sense to me. If you want to see the battery levels more often, there is nothing wrong with mounting the controller to your dash in some fashion.

The Intelligent Solenoid is the brains to the whole system. It monitors the charge level in each battery as well as the available current going through the system. Once it senses more than 13.1V, it activates a 5 minute timer leaving the main battery as the only battery charging for the first 5 minutes the vehicle is running. This is to recoup the charge in the main battery from the discharge of starting the vehicle. One that 5 minutes in up, the IS closes the contact in the attached solenoid putting the main and secondary batteries in parallel and the vehicle charges both batteries. Once the IS senses the voltage between the 2 batteries is below 12.7V, it opens the solenoid contact, isolating the batteries again. Sensing lower than 12.7V can happen either when the truck is turned off, or after the combined voltage of the two batteries reduces to lower than 12.7V. Sometimes with new batteries they keep a charge higher than 12.7V for a while. But once use of either battery draws them down, they isolate. Once isolated, you can draw on the secondary battery without worry of draining your main starting battery. This is a very nice set up when running a myriad of extra electrical products, namely fridges, lights, electronic chargers, etc.

The Dual Battery Controller (DBC) is connected to the IS and monitors the battery levels for you. It displays this on the face, in both voltage and percentage scales. You also have the manual control of the solenoid connection. This is very important. It allows you the ability to connect the batteries together for winching when the vehicle is off, or jump starting your own vehicle when the main battery is low. There are high and low voltage alarms as well.

All in all, I am very happy with the install. The battery is secure, the wiring is clean, the locations for mounting required no drilling at all, and we now have a live circuit management center under the hood. All monitoring is available from the cab. It is a tried and true system.

Cheers,
 

arla

Observer
I have a question on the installation of the dual battery system. I also have the 2013 Trail ....?

@louxwe I have the same dual battery setup on my TE 2014 with Odyssey batteries.
The 110V plugs and cigarette lighters are connected to the starting battery and vehicle equipment wiring and they disconnect when the vehicle is turned off.
To address this issue people usually add a secondary invertor connected to the auxiliary battery (I added a marine fuse box for my auxiliary circuits fed from the auxiliary battery). In this case even after turning the car off the inverter will stay on.
A second solution is to rewire the plugs. I remember once I saw a thread in 4runner forum explaining how to make the plugs to always stay on ( I couldn't find it though).

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

ohanacrusader

Adventurer
With the spidertrax only in the front does it make it even to the rear or do the fronts stick out farther than the back wheels.
 

ohanacrusader

Adventurer
Did you have to trim after the wheel spacers were installed? If so was it cause by the spacers or the tire size you picked?
 

chmura

Adventurer
Hello Paul, how did you install the Alu-box to the K9 rack? I just installed my K9 rack and I might be purchasing a storage box from you.

Did you have to drill into the box to mount it to the rack?
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Hi Everyone,

I disappeared in a pile of work again. Sorry. I'll try to do better on questions now.

Thomas, I drilled through the bottom of the case. I matched the spacing to the slots on the rack, used a total of 4 bolts (1 in each corner). They are 8mm x 40mm bolts. I used a stack of fender washers to fill the space between the rack surface and the recessed bottom of the case. On the inside I used a neoprene fender washer, steel fender washer, and a nylock nut. I have used this case for the last 5 years, on both my 100 Series and the 4Runner. Been to Prudhoe Bay, to Honduras, spent Utah winters, Arizona summers, and a couple 100K miles with that on the roof. No issues at all. No degradation, dents, leaks, etc. It doesn't overheat, locks well with a couple small padlocks, and simply doesn't care about the elements. The Honey Badger of cases.

Cheers,
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Did you have to trim after the wheel spacers were installed? If so was it cause by the spacers or the tire size you picked?

The premise of the the spacers is that when you lift an IFS suspension it moves the location of the rim/tire inward. The spacers return the rim/tire to the original width stance of the front end. The rubbing I had from going with a larger tire was dealt with in a couple ways. A good alignment to adjust it forward as much as possible, and the replacement of the front bumper with an ARB. When I installed the Slee sliders, I removed the lower section of the rear mud flap. That removed all rubbing from turning. It does rub a bit still in full compression turns, so I try not to do that.

Cheers,
 

Equipt

Supporting Sponsor Presenting Sponsor of Overland
Our 2013 Toyota 4Runner is up for sale

Hello Everyone.

Well, I guess it is time. It's been 3 years since we started our build on the 4Runner TE, and we have loved this truck. It has been fun putting it together, and to date, I think it is the best build we have done. A solid world capable truck. It's time for a new project, and unfortunately we need to let our 4Runner go. Here is the thread for the sale. If you have any interest or questions I can help with, please let me know.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...t’s-2013-Toyota-5th-Gen-4Runner-Trail-Edition

Thanks to everyone who participated on this build thread. I appreciate your support a great deal. It means a lot to me. We will be launching our next build thread shortly, so stay tuned to see what we do next.

Cheers,
 

Ace Brown

Retired Ol’ Fart
Paul, sorry to hear this as I was sort of following your lead in building my 15 4R. Hope your not going "big rig" on us now. Seem like that's the latest trend.
 

chmura

Adventurer
Wow I could remember like it was yesterday you getting your 4Runner! Time flies!

You should outfit a pre facelifted Lexus GX460. You can still slap an prado arb bumper on it, etc. Not enough of these vehicles are being built.

LC200 is expensive and little too big for most people and surprisingly not much more cargo room than a 4Runner.

Very curious what's going to be your next build!
 

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