2017+ Ford supercab door noise

tacollie

Glamper
We bought our F250 used and from the beginning we've been disappointed the doors. On really rough roads they make a lot of noise. On the highway if there is a cross wind the whistling is extremely loud. Well I don't know if it makes a conversation hard. I've had three Tacomas with the same style doors and none of them had these issues.

Our truck had a clean history of no accidents when we bought it. It was a working truck though had all the signs of earning it's worth the prior owner.

My question is are the super cabs just noisy? Is there some sort of adjustment I'm missing? I'm trying to figure out if I should start replacing parts like seals or try to come up with that alternative solution.
 
We have a 2012, high mileage at this point, supecab. The rear doors do tend to rattle at times, and creak when flexing. I have had mixed luck tightening the latch/pin assembly, though you must be a bit rough when closing the door, in order to get it latched 100%. Road/wind noise is a different story though. We have none of that. If you are having actual wind noise I would look very close at all of the weatherstrip. Unless the 2017+ has a notorious problem here.
 
My '02 Supercab F-150 had parts of the bottom of the doors falling off at around 200k and 17 years of age... no real wind noise.

My '16 F-150 is a Supercrew and it is quiet too.
 
I'll see if I can adjust something. The doors do seem flimsy to me. They don't really rattle. It's hard to describe but it's almost like they're not fully latched even though they are.
 
I had an older Raptor Supercab and loved it, but they were well documented for being noisy when used as intended. There were some threads about wrapping a bit of hockey tape around the latch mechanisms on the cab to take the play out of it. Some guys would also use a fish tape to pull small silicone hose through the rubber door seals to create more pressure when sealed. I'll see if I can find some links.
 
I had an older Raptor Supercab and loved it, but they were well documented for being noisy when used as intended. There were some threads about wrapping a bit of hockey tape around the latch mechanisms on the cab to take the play out of it. Some guys would also use a fish tape to pull small silicone hose through the rubber door seals to create more pressure when sealed. I'll see if I can find some links.
I came across a YouTube video of some guy who said he would wrap his strikers with electrical tape. He then replaced him with that GM part that was thicker and a direct fit. I figured for 12 bucks I can give that a try.
 

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