2019 F350 4x4 custom HPI flatbed/AT Atlas topper

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Just re-read through this again a little more closely... Very slick idea with the pass through and dogs!! I dig it..

But... Insulation? I see using the aluminum box as a pass through connected to both the camper and the truck as a massive heat suck, big time.

Meaning, in cold weather, that cold aluminum getting warmed up on the inside from the furnace, etc, will cause a fair amount of condensation, and be basically a door for the heat to escape

I'd suggest somehow insulating it, and maybe having something to completely close it off from the camper once setup. Otherwise, its gonna be battling your heater to keep warm

My .02

 

[mk216v]

Just re-read through this again a little more closely... Very slick idea with the pass through and dogs!! I dig it..

But... Insulation? I see using the aluminum box as a pass through connected to both the camper and the truck as a massive heat suck, big time.

Meaning, in cold weather, that cold aluminum getting warmed up on the inside from the furnace, etc, will cause a fair amount of condensation, and be basically a door for the heat to escape

I'd suggest somehow insulating it, and maybe having something to completely close it off from the camper once setup. Otherwise, its gonna be battling your heater to keep warm

My .02

Thx Kevin.

Glad you brought this up as I've been brainstorming this. Already asked Alum-line if they can spray something like Mastacote on the inside of the entire "tunnel box" to help with thermal insulation. Beyond that, could I also apply(myself) something like the foil-backed butyl insulation (akin to FatMat brand)--acoustic, then even 3M Thinsulate--thermal/acoustic? Yeah, but then while I'd want to put panels over that, I don't think I would--no one is going to look that hard inside the tunnel box(upper doghouse or lower storage). So, this could work. May not look pretty after trying to crawl in a 27"W x 27"H upper doghouse area to do this, nor the 27"W x ~16"H lower storage area, but a possibility eh?
Note we'll load the dogs in thru the FWC, but the tunnel box will have both upper/lower externally-accessible doors on driver and pass side. This way we could always let the pups out of their doghouse immediately in an emergency(or use the upper for extra storage, after removing dog's soft crates, if we don't take the dogs for some reason), can access lower storage easily. So, at least the upper doghouse external doors will need seals that seal extra well.

And I'm with you; while traveling, aiming to have some sort of block-off-panel that fits in the window from FWC-tunnelbox, to improve efficiency of the truck HVAC to us/dogs. When in camp, we'll have to work thru either the dogs going thru the FWC-tunnelbox window to their doghouse, or they stay in the FWC with us and we use the block-off-panel to keep the camper better climate controlled.

 

[campertruck]

Thanks camper truck!

Good to hear on your fuel thoughts. I'm at 40gal, and if my plan for a cantilevered flatbed tray works out, I can not only have the spare back there, but also my 4 4gal Rotopax, for a total of 56gal of fuel onboard.

The reason I went RegularCab was because I was initially planning the custom cabin and figured I'd be able to do a 3/4 walk-thru, where the dogs could stay in the cabin and still get HVAC from front cab, thru the walk-thru...and as well, I was trying to keep OAL as short as possible. If I were to do it again with the direction I'm headed now (poptop camper), I probably would have gone with a SuperCab to make it easier (ie no custom tunnel box/doghouse needed). CrewCab gives even more space, but my concern with it is the much longer 176"WB on the Ford trucks with CrewCab (SuperCab about 164"ishWB). But alas, to sell my rig and buy a SuperCab would be upside down money-wise, so I'll just create my own SuperCab doghouse.

Your sentence about diesel trucks cut off...

What year is your 3500? I'm a bit surprised it's not outfitted with a larger alternator than 220A. But good to hear of your success with the 220A and no solar, since I'm currently at 240A and looking at solar. Unfortunately no dual alt option for the Ford gas like there is for the RAM gas(currently 380A).

Agreed with a downside to poptop campers being the canvas upper section, but after LOTS and LOTS of bench racing, and wanting to keep OAH the gasas low as possible, I have to learn to deal with a compromise (poptop camper with canvas upper sides).

Hello
I’ve owned many of the Cummins diesels but given the emission requirements of today, I feel the gas is an easier option.
Look at Alaska campers and see what you think of that design, you might get some ideas.

 

[mk216v]

Hello
I’ve owned many of the Cummins diesels but given the emission requirements of today, I feel the gas is an easier option.
Look at Alaska campers and see what you think of that design, you might get some ideas.

Glad to hear of your enjoyment of gas vs diesel. Having had(have) some diesel's, I'm really looking forward to gas for this build.

I love how Alaska has the folding cabover hard sides, brilliant!

 

[Buliwyf]

I prefer the c channel because it's easier to mount onto, easier to clean, flexes when it needs to, and most of all..........c channel isn't precisely engineered for the specific truck bed. You can u bolt anything, anywhere pretty safely.

I'm afraid that bolting a bed down to the wrong spot of the boxed frame could have impossible to foresee side effects. C channel works perfectly for our work trucks that get flogged harder than an overland camper ever will.

Here's part of my build sheet. No idea if it's single or dual alts:


Losing a bit of sleep. I'm hating the idea of trading in a truck I got a great deal on, just for the new engine, long bed, 4.30's, and a non-chewed up wiring harnesss.

If you don't want dual batteries, ''Rapid heat'' option includes the big alt.

 

[phsycle]

I prefer the c channel because it's easier to mount onto, easier to clean, flexes when it needs to, and most of all..........c channel isn't precisely engineered for the specific truck bed. You can u bolt anything, anywhere pretty safely.

I'm afraid that bolting a bed down to the wrong spot of the boxed frame could have impossible to foresee side effects. C channel works perfectly for our work trucks that get flogged harder than an overland camper ever will.

Here's part of my build sheet. No idea if it's single or dual alts:
View attachment 563796

Losing a bit of sleep. I'm hating the idea of trading in a truck I got a great deal on, just for the new engine, long bed, 4.30's, and a non-chewed up wiring harnesss.

If you don't want dual batteries, ''Rapid heat'' option includes the big alt.

Will repairing the wire harness cause big issues in the future? I personally don’t think I would go to a new truck in this situation. You’ve got a new body style, proven 6.2....unless you’re getting some crazy killer deal on the new truck, I’d wait. At least till the end of the year.

 

[Buliwyf]

I'm worried that any further electrical gremlins will be blamed on a chewed up harness from the past. Would be nice to have a warranty.

I'm on the fence. I'm in the sticks where slightly used base models are in high demand. I might get a decent deal actually.

 

[mk216v]

I prefer the c channel because it's easier to mount onto, easier to clean, flexes when it needs to, and most of all..........c channel isn't precisely engineered for the specific truck bed. You can u bolt anything, anywhere pretty safely.

I'm afraid that bolting a bed down to the wrong spot of the boxed frame could have impossible to foresee side effects. C channel works perfectly for our work trucks that get flogged harder than an overland camper ever will.

Here's part of my build sheet. No idea if it's single or dual alts:
View attachment 563796

Losing a bit of sleep. I'm hating the idea of trading in a truck I got a great deal on, just for the new engine, long bed, 4.30's, and a non-chewed up wiring harnesss.

If you don't want dual batteries, ''Rapid heat'' option includes the big alt.

Thx on your C channel thoughts.

397A alternator has to be 2 alt's totaling 397A.

Your '17 F250 6.2L; it's a pickup or chassis-cab? 6.75' bed vs 8' bed? 3.73 gears(e-locker in rear or not)? Why do you want the new 7.3L gas vs proven 6.2L gas?

I'm planning on upgrading to dual batteries--something like dual 750CCA 78aH, but AGM's--and using National Luna dual battery setup w/ battery monitor. Have it on another vehicle and like it. (Note; dual batts w/ the 6.7L was an option, so Ford has engineered space for a 2nd batt).

 

[mk216v]

I'm worried that any further electrical gremlins will be blamed on a chewed up harness from the past. Would be nice to have a warranty.

I'm on the fence. I'm in the sticks where slightly used base models are in high demand. I might get a decent deal actually.

And what happened to your wiring harness; engine, body, which one?

 

[Buliwyf]

Squirrels ate one. They got the CAN buss. That takes out the whole truck. I sent one squirrel to the pearly gates today. The others ran off. Set up a perfect kill box around a pile of grass seed. I'll get another in the morning. They broke the truce, so the gloves come off.

Mines a pickup, 3.73 Fx4. cc, sb.

Looking to go 7.3, 4.30, xlt, fx4, cc, lb.

 

[mk216v]

Tell us more why you prefer C-channel for this application.

DRW to SuperSingles; this will work easiest if you get an F450/550, as you'll get 10lug, so you can choose from Hutchinson, Buckstop, 1st Attack, or DBL Design beadlocks (Stazworks--see Tom's Kodiak camper and the issues he's had with them. Rickson--some others here have had issues with them too). I don't know of any companies making SuperSingles for the 8lug F350.

"New gas Ford with dual batteries, and thus 400A alt"; are you talking about the newest 2020 7.3L? I'd doubt it'd be a single 400A alternator, only because RAM's dual alt's are at either 380A(HEMI gas) or 440A(Cummins diesel). Up to/including 2019, Ford only offered either xtraHD 200A or xtraxtraHD 240A single's for 6.2L gas, HD 240A single for 6.8L gas, or xtraHD 220A single or dualHD 332A(total) on 6.7L diesel.
*Updated; I just looked in the 2020 Ford SD pickup order guide I have (waiting for chassis-cab version, so you could be correct), and astonishingly, for the 6.2L still available, Ford has dropped from a 200A to 157A standard(XL/XLT), 200A(Lariat, KingRanch, Platinum), or 240A. 7.3L is 240A or optional 397A(believe this must be duals). 6.7L diesel is 175A, 240A, or dual 332A(total) or dual 397A(total). 332A(must be dual; Limited). Dual batts(750CCA.78aH) only available with 6.7L diesel. Anyways, a bit goofy to now have 6 alternator options. I digress.

Just got the '20(which is actually '21, as Ford skipped the '20 model year) chassis-cab info.
For c-c, it's only 200A single, 240A single, dual alt's totaling 332A, or dual's totaling 397A--all depending on if you're going with gas or diesel engine.

 

[Buliwyf]

With that option, I won't need a spare alt under my back seat anymore.

 

[mk216v]

Squirrels ate one. They got the CAN buss. That takes out the whole truck. I sent one squirrel to the pearly gates today. The others ran off. Set up a perfect kill box around a pile of grass seed. I'll get another in the morning. They broke the truce, so the gloves come off.

Mines a pickup, 3.73 Fx4. cc, sb.

Looking to go 7.3, 4.30, xlt, fx4, cc, lb.

Ugh, sorry to hear!

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Ugh, sorry to hear!

It’s insanely common with newer Toyota’s too. They use a soy based coating on the wiring harnesses now

 

[mk216v]

It’s insanely common with newer Toyota’s too. They use a soy based coating on the wiring harnesses now

Glad you went RAM then!